Since I originally wrote this article have sold my Canon 5D Mark III and now only have the two Nikons. For some unplanned reason I have ended up as the owner of Nikon D600, D800 and Canon 5D Mark III and have been using all three camera’s intensively for several months. I will start by explaining why I ended up owning both high-end Canon and Nikon cameras, because that is an expensive lot. I started looking for other extreme wide angled lenses and read a ton of reviews, only to find out, that Canon only had a few options. I must admit, that I would love to make combination of Nikon and Canon features and button layout. What I really like about the Nikon D600 and the Canon 5D Mark III is the easy accessible custom presets, that are easily access by turning a dial to U1 or U2 (Nikon D600) or C1, C2 or C3 (Canon 5D Mark III). The D800 has got some custom presets, divided into two different banks and they are hidden in a menu. On my D800 I need to do all of my HDR settings manually, and it is really a pain and I more than once ended up forgetting to switch on something or switch something off when I’m done.
On all three cameras I have learned to find my way around, and I find that many things are equally fast to adjust, but just (very) different.
If you take a set of 5 HDR shots, with 1 EV (exposure value) step between each photo, ranging from –2 to +2, then you effectively extend your camera’s Dynamic Range by 4 EV steps (or EVS). It looks like the Canon 5D Mark III is a clear winner in this discipline, and in some ways it is.
I do like the flexibility the Canon camera has, not only because I can increase the total covered dynamic range, without adding more photos. Just to show how much dynamic range the Nikon D800 covers with 14.4 EVS covers, let’s have a look at the image below. In terms of flexibility and total covered dynamic range the Canon 5D Mark III comes out as a clear winner. However, both of the Nikons has an impressive native dynamic range, which makes it possible to capture scenes, that the Canon 5D Mark III would have to use AEB shots to capture.
I prefer the flexibility of the Canon 5D Mark III and can cover more extreme situations with the 5D Mark III, but the D800 is more than capable in as good as any situation. The most annoying thing with the D800 is the maximum limit of 1 EV step pr bracketed shot and that combined with the fact, that the D800 RAW files are enormously 75 Mb each. All three cameras perform very well in low light conditions, though I always take the Canon 5D Mark III, if I know I’m heading into low light situation, like an indoor event or something like that.
There are many ways of getting more scientific conclusions, and if I you are really interested in it, I suggest that you look around for good source. At ISO 1600 Canon 5D Mark III has got a lead, which only increases at ISO 3200, 6400 and 12800.
The Canon 5D Mark III does perform much better at very high ISO ranging from ISO 3200 and higher. However, I do like to use the Live View mode when I have the camera on a tripod as I do when I take my landscape and cityscape photos. The Canon 5D Mark III is a clear winner in this discipline and the Nikon D800 is a clear looser.
No matter how good the Live View is on the 5D Mark III in lowlight conditions, there are limits to what’s it capable of, and it will grow first noisy, then black too. The large images also have a foot print in the time I spend working with the photos, first the unloading, is more time consuming, and the post-processing my photos is also slower. The last real photo shoot I did with both Nikon and Canon, I did on a winters eve close to my home. I of course can change the white balance on one of them and get more or less the same colors. This is my final HDR from the Canon 5D Mark III (and I know it is not the same composition as above, it is shot only 3 minutes earlier, and the coloring is the same.
Very different photos, also because I processed them with different things in my mind, but notice the overall temperature and coloring.
Now I have only the Nikons and my results are quite biased by the default white balance, even though I work a lot with the colors. When I got the Nikon D800 I knew it was 2,7 stops better in dynamic range, than the 5D Mark III. This is an example of three closely resembling photos, shot with a few seconds between them.
I then increased the exposure 4 stops (4 EV steps) artificially in Lightroom and have a look at the shadows at a 100%. I was quite happy with my Canon 5D Mark III, but as I wrote in the introduction to this article, there was a turning point. I had picked that particular lens, because from reviews I could see that, there was no significant difference in the quality of the images between the Canon 17-40mm and the twice as expensive Canon 16-35mm. What good was an excellent full frame camera body, if I didn’t have the lens that I wanted?  So I started my research.
I had a long vacation coming up, where we had to go to Sydney for a few days, then stay in New Zealand for a month and then a couple of days in Singapore. I did some calculation, and figured out that if I sold all of my Canon equipment, bought the Nikon D800, Nikkor 14-24mm and the Nikkor 28-300mm I would still have money in my pocket.
There are several lenses that exists in both line ups, like 16-35mm, 24-70mm, 70-200mm, 70-300mm, 28-300mm, but they may be of different quality and with different specifications and very different pricetags. I can take great photos with Canon, some of my best I have shot with my 5D Mark III, but what really pushed me towards Nikon was the lenses and to some extend the pricing. I do miss the flexibility from the Canon 5D Mark III, both in Auto Exposure Bracketing and in the easy accessible custom presets, but the native dynamic range and the lenses of Nikon is making up for that.
All three (well four now) cameras are amazing and can produce amazing photos, but there of cause exists differences. Really bad Live View mode, with interlacing making manual focus in Live View mode impossible in some situations. Total Covered Dynamic Range is only 20.2 EVS, which is not much better than many other cameras. I don’t have a Nikon DF, though I did consider to get one, but in the end I have chosen not to buy one. What the Nikon DF does better than any of the other three is Low Light photography, and that should be the ONLY reason for me to buy a Nikon DF. If you shoot a lot of Low light photography, the Nikon DF, might just be the camera that you need. All cameras produce fantastic photos, and differ a little in usage, but for a landscape photographer Nikon has got a better extreme wide angle lens line-up, compared to Canon, and that really tips the verdict, for me. Now that I have had good and long time with all three cameras I am sure, that have made the right decision to switch to Nikon. And at the time of writing this review I have actually sold my Canon lenses and the Canon 5D Mark III body is leaving the building in two weeks. For a few days during my considerations I actually thought that the Samyang was the answer, but I decided that, manual focus, no EXIF data transfering from the lens and the mustage distortion was not what I wanted, I wanted something more. Dynamic Range is about how much light the sensor can capture from the very darkest shadows to the very brightest light source with in one single photo. The Nikon cameras (also the entry level ones) are much much better than Canon at capturing details from the shadows and from light sources, with in one shot.
It *is* possible to mount filters on the 14-24, but it’s a rather bulky and inexpensive option. I did consider buying the filter set for the 14-24mm before going, but decided on staying with the 16-35mm. I just received a great tip from Darren Neuport, that the Nikon D800 supports compressed RAW files, but that you have to enable it. Another way of reducing space spend on the memory card is to take fewer shots and that is on my road map. Canon's best APS-C format SLR to date, the 7D Mark II has a new sensor and processing engine along with advanced metering and AF systems, giving it bags of appeal to the enthusiast wedded to the idea of an SLR rather than a compact system camera. Get the best tech deals, reviews, product advice, competitions, unmissable tech news and more! Just above that is the dial to change shooting modes, which now comes standard with a locking button.
Canon added a switch for stills to video and a Q button – both of which had been on the 7D, but are new to the 5D-series of cameras.
Canon also laid out the buttons around the LCD differently and added a RATE button and a ZOOM button.
The rate button allows you to add a star rating to your images in camera – a first for Canon cameras. Some additions you can’t see from the 5D Mark II are the addition of the HDR mode and the multiple exposure mode. First off, yes: the woman in the photo above was wearing a garbage bag because it was raining cats and dogs.
Something that Thomas didn’t mention that I felt is an absolute necessity is the fact that Canon included a silent shutter option for the camera to mute the very tin-like sound of the current shutter.
For street photography or for on-location portrait photographers looking to get into an area and get out quickly without drawing too much attention to themselves, the quiet shutter is quite useful. If you can live with that (and most 5D Mk II shooters should have been able to adapt) you’ll be fine. The Canon 5D Mark III is definitely not the type of camera that you can just pick up and start shooting with.
File Name _TC1 – I use _ because I use ADOBE RGB color space, the camera will put this anyway. The Canon 5D Mk III contains incremental upgrades on the inside with ergonomics additions and changes stylized after Canon’s 7D on the outside. At a quick glace, the 5D Mk III may not stand out much more from the 5D Mk II, but upon closer inspection you’ll see that it really does differentiate itself.
At this point in the review, I should also mention that the finish on the camera is much different; and is also the reasons why there are so many scratches on the finish. The top LCD screen still displays all the important info you’ll ever need right where you need it. As stated earlier on, the finish on the camera is also different and is easily scratched off. The mode dial has the addition of a lock button: this is a design accent taken from the 60D that was very successful in real life use. The 5D Mark III moved the power switch from the bottom center of the back of the camera to the top panel on the left. Right next to the Q button is the SET button, which I remap in custom controls to control my ISO. There is a picture style button on the left that lets you chose if you are going to change your picture style, use multiple exposures or the new HDR in camera processing. Most users of this camera will be very pleased with the focusing on the 5D Mk III and in real life use it isn’t really that bad at all. For example, I really wished that the focusing points were placed towards the outer sections of the imaging area instead of all of them being near the center.
In my tests, the main points (not expanded) points of the 5D Mk II were almost as strong as those on the 5D Mk III. Finally, the system also still works best when the focusing points are placed on contrasting areas. In my short tests, the Canon 5D Mk III excelled and passed our Sunny 16 tests with flying colors.
For event photography, the 5D Mk III seems like a natural choice for many photographers looking to upgrade or wanting something new.
If you’re going to spring for this camera, I would still recommend that you already have an investment in either speedlites or a monolight system. One of my favorite ways to shoot street photography is by using my camera from the hip because of the totally different point of view that it gives you. A lot of value must also be added to the fact that the camera is also extremely quiet and the metering works very well. Like the 5D Mk II, it is still best to place the focusing point on an area of contrast, like an eye or something else like that. It should also go without saying, but it also works best when you microadjust the lens that you’re using. The 5D Mk III worked flawlessly with my Phottix Odin TTL triggers with my flashes being placed in a large softbox.
If you’re doing action shots, it is also essential to say that the AI Servo tracking focus setting also works great for keeping a subject constantly in focus.
Once again though, you’ll need to keep the subject still around the center of the imaging area because those are where the focusing points are placed.


If anything, it could use a bit of a contrast boost with lower saturation if you’re shooting sports, but with portraits you may want to lower the contrast and add a tiny bit of a boost to the saturation.
The automatic white balance also seems to skew itself a bit toward the blue side of the spectrum; so also keep that in mind. Use Flickriver Badge Creator to create a badge linking to your photos, your group or any other Flickriver view.
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While viewing any Flickr photos page, click on this button to open the same view on Flickriver. A Greasemonkey script that adds Flickriver links to various Flickr photo pages - user photos, favorites, pools etc, allowing to quickly open the corresponding Flickriver view. While viewing any Flickr photos page, click on the bookmarklet to open the same view on Flickriver. The D610 is a minor update of the Nikon D600 and only really has got three changes, two has to do with the shutter. On a daily basis I carry around both my Nikon D800 and my Canon 5D Mark III – and why is it that I do that?
I didn’t have any room behind me, so this was the best I could do and I wasn’t happy about it. Canon has a 16-35mm, which cost twice as much and was reviewed much the same as the 17-40mm. For that I needed two cameras and to avoid carrying too many lenses and doing too many lens changes, I decided to get a D600 with an 28-300 as my second camera for the trip and I left the Canon 5D Mark III at home. In many ways I find the Canon easier and faster to use, and for some reason more modern than Nikon, but Nikon has some advantages too.
They are not easily accessed and I don’t use them at all, it’s faster to setup the camera manually. On both Nikon cameras this is a dial and cannot be included in a preset, which when switching between hand held and tripod preset, I sometimes forget, to switch the Timer dial accordingly. This is definately not why I use the D800 as my primary camera, this is something I have learned to live with. However, Canon also has the option of doing the settings on the screen too, like a menu, with (changing programs, f-stops, shutter-speed etc). In the old days only Pro Nikon cameras could take more than 3 auto exposure bracketed (AEB) shots automatically, but that changed with Canon 5D Mark III.
When you pass the line of 16 EVS in one shot you will only need to use AEB in more extreme situtations. In extreme dynamic range situations, like a really dark church with bright sun shine coming through smaller windows, the Canon has an edge.
The Nikons can cover more than 18 EVS, within a –2 to +2 scenary, which is plenty for most High Dynamic Range situations. One is an event where I take pictures of people in a low light condition, while the other one is shooting landscapes outdoors at night, dusk or dawn. The worst part is, that it does some interlacing of the image on the screen, making focusing impossible in some situations. This is possible because it is a wide angled lens, and when you use a wide angled lens you can get pretty much everything sharp.
All three cameras capture a lot of details and has got plenty of pixels to spare, if you need to do some cropping. Raw files takes up about 75 Mb (update: after having writting this article I learned that there is a loss less compressed NEF, which makes RAW files around 40 Mb). Eventhough I have a pretty potent computer with 16 Gb of RAM I still find it slow to work with the D800 images in Lightroom. I work a lot with the colors, but the initial white balance often tends to be my starting point, and in this case it does give very different results.
Even though I failed to get two of the shots tack sharp, I think it is easy to see, that the Canon 5D Mark III is a lot more noisy in the shadows, if the shadows are raised 4 EVS as I did here. It had started, because I sometimes got annoyed with the image quality of my Canon 17-40mm lens. It takes completely round pictures at the lower end and in the upper end still classic fisheye and I didn’t want a fisheye. Twice the price of the 17-40mm, only 1mm wider, which I doubted was enough and much the same image quality as the Canon 17-40mm. I also found out, that Nikon had a Nikkor 28-300mm, while not being a superb lens, it was reasonably priced and had a good all purpose usage for travelling. Nikons are expensive too, but I have the feeling of getting the good stuff cheaper than at Canons. It seems that every new thing from Canon is much more expensive, so I thought I’d rather get off the train, before it was too late.
While I searched for options, Nikon announced the D600, which seemed like the obvious choice to me.
It’s almost as fast as the 5D Mark III in terms of shots pr second, and has got many qualities (update: And the D610 is equally fast). But I have been experimenting with the Nikon D800 on low light photography recently, and I find that it really does meet my requirements.
What Canon 5D Mark III might lack in native dynamic range, is covered in a very flexible Auto Exposure Bracketing mode.
The only things I will be missing are the ease of use with the Custom Presets and the low light performance. I do not have anything to complain about, image wise, but if there is one thing that is lacking, it is the option to add filters to the lens.
The low light performance is about shooting photos in poor light conditions, like indoor at night time. What is so dark, the sensor can not capture it, just becomes completely black, and what is too bright, just goes completely white. There are some noise reduction in the cameras, and they come in different flavors on different cameras. Since your working with 9 exposures that’s usually enough dynamic range even when shooting Jpeg.
You can shoot bracketed in JPEG and get really nice results, but you cut of some ways of working with your photos. I have bought the largest memory cards available on the market, and plugged them into my D800 and now has 96 Gb worth of memory card in the camera. You can unsubscribe at any time and we'll never share your details without your permission. The 5D Mark II has been a workhorse of a camera for many wedding and portrait photographers, but has also been maligned by these same photographers for the shortcomings. I’ve left my camera on when putting it in the bag and killed the battery in transport, so I am very glad I can easily look into my bag and see that my camera is off. This allows you to actually cull in camera or mark your favorites while shooting – and you can even mark them different ways unlike the protect button on the 1DX. I have it set so that when I press the button, it will zoom into 100% on the chosen focus point. The 5D Mk II’s shutter was quieter than the standard shutter on the 5D Mk III in my opinion. It must also be said that in the quiet shutter mode, the shutter does slow down to 3fps as opposed to the 6fps that is standard with the normal shutter mode. It is much more complicated than previous cameras, with a pay off in lots of great features.
The left has a bunch of new buttons, so if you’ll want to zoom in on your photo for example, you no longer need to use the buttons on the top right as one did with the 7D and 5D Mk II.
In my tests, I tested this with small JPEGs going to an Eye-Fi card and the RAWs going to my CF card.
This is a very welcome adjustment for me, because it makes it much easier to look in your camera bag and see if you accidentally left the camera on while packing them or before you zip up your bag.
With the RATE button, I can instantly rate an image with one to five stars and that rating will be visible in Photo Mechanic or Lightroom.
Canon took the focusing from what seems to be the Canon 7D and applied it to the 5D Mk III with some changes. The photo on the left was shot with the AI Servo mode on and by using a single focusing point to constantly hit Dave’s face. And in low light tests, the two lenses were pretty much neck in neck in terms of AF performance.
The stylistic decision to make it like the 7D also seems to have worked out well for most users. The camera has more autofocus points though they are still around the center for the most part (which the 5D Mk II also had despite having significantly less AF points).
Canon’s speedlites and still deliver quite a bit of a different look that is valued amongst event and wedding clients. For street photography candids, this camera can excel quite a bit not only due to the autofocus system, but also because of the fact that the high ISO results are so good that one can crank it up to 3200 ISO with little to no worry at all.
For the absolute best results though, I still believe that Zeiss lenses are the kings of street photography due to their depth of field scale on the lens. Skin tones are often rendered very true to life: if anything I would say that they are exactly like Fujifilm 400H Pro film. And with that said, you should use the focusing setup that allows you to really narrow down the middle of a specific focusing point. Even better: the metering in high speed sync also worked much more predictably with the 5D Mk III than it would with the 5D Mk II.
If set to the right autofocus parameters, it can track a subject throughout the frame like the 7D did before it. However, I really do have to add that I strongly do not recommend using the color profiles already added into the camera. Thankfully, when the raw files are coupled with the excellent processing in Adobe Lightroom 4, you can shoot at this ISO almost worry free. Once added to your personalized homepage, just edit widget settings to select your desired view. It now does 6 fps instead of 5,5 and it has a Quiet mode (which I loved on the Canon 5D Mark III too).
But, being a landscape and cityscape photographer, the wide angled lenses are very important to me.
But I must admit, that everytime I pick my Canon 5D Mark III, it feels just like coming home. A result of that is the only way to increase the covered dynamic range, is to increase the number of photos. The building was almost completely dark, only lit by the couple of street lamps you can see. It allows me use a single shot in many situations, where the Canon 5D Mark III would need to use AEB.
The first situation requires a fairly fast shutter speed, because it is handheld, which means increasing both the f-stop and the ISO, while in the latter situation, I will have the camera on a tripod and I can keep both the f-stop and the ISO much lower. You can hide a lot in the 36 megapixels of the D800, but pixel to pixel it can’t compete with the 5D Mark III. It uses the elektronics to focus, just like the snap shot cameras and it is much too slow to get the shot. Even if the light is really good, you may still have serious problems focusing because of the interlacing. I have, in a couple of situations, really loved the 36 mega pixels, because it allows a more aggressive cropping. This is a natural price to pay, because data processing takes longer, the more data you have. The Canon I find slightly more saturated, which comes becomes more clear in some situations than others. I boosted the saturation quite a bit in the Nikon version, but that doesn’t change the temperature. It was not perfect, there was some red and green color noise, but with some noise reduction I could retrieve great things from the shadows. The D800 – and the D600, because they perform almost equally well – are outstanding in dynamic range, as you can read in the section about HDR photography above in this review.
The area is almost completely black in the original images, but the Nikons actually manages quite well and delivers very usable details, a little noise but definitely usable!
The lens is very expensive, but also excellent in every way, as far as I could see, but it was a prime and not a zoom.
It was very likely that I wouldn’t get my Carl Zeiss before going, so I continued searching for other options.


So the only real option is the 24-70mm or 28-300mm, which are two very different lenses in quality and zoom range… and price. Canon lacks some of that good stuff in the wide angled lenses department, that Nikon has got. But I (just as well as most people out there) don’t own any of these and probably never will.
If the Canon is better in low light I would think if you shoot RAW at ISO 100 on both cameras (the canon and nikon) you would be able to lift the exposure in Lightroom to have better shadows on the Canon, no? You will probably still have shadows and bright light sources in your photo, and it is the Dynamic Range of the sensor, that dictates how much detail you can capture in the shadows and in the light sources.
The way you can see this, is, as you mentioned, by raising the exposure in Lightroom, so you can actually see what has been captured in the shadows. You can find them in the menus, but I strongly recommend that you always (and I mean always) shoot RAW, and then do the noise reduction in the post-processing. I have chosen to continue to use my filters on 77mm, and attached to the 16-35mm (which I used for 99% of my photos last week on Duncan Macarthurs autumn workshop in the Queyras National Park in the French Alps). With it came some incremental upgrades to address the Mk II’s supposed shortcomings as well as adding on some other features. I use Black Rapid straps and more times than I care to recount, my 5D Mark II switched to bulb from manual as it swung by my side.
With such a deep set of menus, the Q button allows you to do things like change the white balance or the image quality without going through the menu system. I often have an assistant editing for me while I shoot, so having an easy way for them to see exactly what I want edited is an invaluable feature to me.
This is invaluable, especially for a prime shooter working with insanely shallow depths of field from the phenomenal Canon 85mm f1.2L II. But when the 5D Mk III uses its quiet shutter option, you can never tell that the camera is there.
A woman sitting next to me smiled and asked if anyone ever yells at me for taking their photos. The addition of the M FN button is nice because it allows more versatility in the autofocusing. I always felt like the area where you placed your right thumb around the AF-ON button felt much better on the 7D than it did on the 5D Mark II. I’ve definitely been that guy that left my camera on and killed the battery during transport. When you press this, you can change almost anything affecting the image without having to go to the menu system. I shoot hard news on deadline, and being able to rate images quickly and easily helps so much when on deadline. The 5D Mk III doesn’t focus faster (that is based on your lenses) than the 5D Mk II at all, but it is indeed smarter and offers more points to be used.
This was my go to ISO setting with my 5D Mk II in lower lit situations or when I needed the speed, but this goes double for the 5D Mk III.
But beyond this, the files also have a ton of information in both the shadows and highlights; and it very easy to recover any lost details.
I got a new girlfriend (my wife today) and she had a 70-300mm lens for Canon, so when I should buy my first DSLR, the choice was Canon.
After a trip to Amsterdam in september 2012, where I shot around 2000 shots, my mind changed. And another couple of options is a cheap Samyang 14mm, with great reviews, except for one major drawback, because it has got a complex distortion, changing a horizon into mustage shaped line. To get the maximum covered dynamic range with Nikon D800, I have to shoot 9 exposures, each taking approx. One of my absolutely main reasons for acquirering the 5D Mark III, was because of its low light performance. In the first situation I would use the 5D Mark III ten times out of ten times, while all three cameras can handle the latter situation effortless. Fast focus is only achieved by shooting while looking through the View Finder, and that goes for any DSLR camera. Even in reasonably bright situations, like in a room with normal daylight outside, the Live View is very noisy. This is not something that I feel is an advantage or disadvantage for any of the cameras, just differences. This is mostly relevant you shoot single exposures, but I shoot a lot of HDR consisting of 5 shots or more and then dynamic range of each photo is less relevant. The Canon 5D Mark III on the other hand really falls apart in the shadows, and I would not try to recover that information.
This I do if I anticipate a risk of blown out areas and I prefer to have completely black areas compared to completely white areas. Canon has got a 28-300mm lens too, but the price tag is just more than I want to spend on a lens, beside the fact that it is huge and heavy. The first one is the fact that it is feature locked to a maximum of 3 Auto Exposure Bracketed shots.
If you are dying to use some of the lenses, this of course can be the reason to get a Nikon DF. And since I like to use filters, I have actually added the 16-35mm Nikon lens to my collection. Doesn’t shooting raw exposure across the whole sensor, so if the Canon shoots better at 128000 than the Nikon I would think those blacks would look nicer even when shot at ISO 100 and lifted in LR. If you want to change white balance you need the RAW files or if you in other ways work with one of your exposures (which I do a lot), then the RAW file contains a lot more data than the JPEG’s. This way I can take just 5 shots and cover the same dynamic range, as I can with 9 shots and save almost half the space. I shoot my white balance in Kelvin, so being able to switch it easily without going through dozens of menus is very useful. I don’t think this will be something I will use often, simply because I want more control of my final product. I highly suggest spending some time with your manual, but am also supplying my settings for the camera below.
I shoot my white balance primarily in Kelvin and not the presets, and it was a huge pain to go into the menus to change the WB as you shoot.
Previously, you could protect images, which tags them in PhotoMechanic, however you had to go through the menus to do that on the 5D Mark II. But for a portraitist like me, I really wanted the points to be spread out more amongst the frame.
When I handed the camera off the some Nikon users, they were confused, especially by the new menu system which can surely be a bit intimidating at first. The two still performed quite well together in the tough downpour that NYC has been experiencing this summer. Canon 5D mark III has got three preset banks, which allows me to have a handheld setting, a 5 shot tripod setting and a 7 shot tripod setting. This photo had been impossible to shoot with my Canon 5D Mark III in one single exposure, because it would have lost all of the details on the building in either complete black spots or very noise areas. I work a lot with the colors in the post processing and I haven’t had any problems that I couldn’t solve with either of the cameras. But there was a third problem – it was not wide enough and as I wrote in the introduction to this review, I realized that in a church in Amsterdam, where I couldn’t get all of the pulpit included in a photo and I wasn’t happy about it.
It has an out standing sharpness all over and gives incredible photos and I love that I’m able to go as wide as 14mm. From what I understand the Canon 16-35 II is better than the 17-40mm as far as all aroundsharpness at lower fstops especially at F4.0. Or does shooting raw not work that way or is there some sort of internal Denoising the camera’s do across a certain exposure range? The problem with noise reduction is that it also takes away details from the photo, and you don’t want to do that, too early in the process, like when you shoot. I only just bought it, and haven’t had much time to play around with it yet, but it works! This enables a maximum continuous shooting speed of 10 frames per second (fps) for 31 raw files with a UDMA 7 CF card (such as the Lexar Professional 1066x card) installed or 1030 JPEGs with the same card; and a native sensitivity range of ISO 100-16,000 with expansion settings taking it up to ISO 51,200.
I will be able to create an HDR or multiple exposure file quicker and easier than I could in post processing, but I prefer to have the control that Adobe Photoshop will afford me in post processing. This may not be the best for every situation, but with few tweaks, this has been really great for me for a couple dozen photoshoots.
Additionally, the lenses can still misfocus due to camera system and the best and most accurate focusing still comes from the points being placed on places of contrast. When I started out doing more serious photography in 2012, I got myself the Canon 5D Mark III.
In my search I discovered that Nikon did make a 14-24mm that not only had a really good zoom range but also had received extremely good reviews.
An ingeneered solution to get performance out of the Live View, while handling the 36 megapixels.
Later, when I import the D800 images into Lightroom I convert them to DNG files, which compresses the files to about 30 Mb, which is much better. If you want to have more information from the shadows you should shoot at two or more exposures. I got the camera with dust on the sensor and immediately handed it in for cleaning, and they gave it a quick blow and handed it back to me, but before I knew it, I had got spots again. In broad daylight the sensor gets a lot of light, and ISO 100 is good, indoor you will have to go higher, 3200, 6400 or even 12800. If you want to test Low Light Performance, you shoot in dark conditions and raise the ISO beyond ISO 1600 and see how much noise you get. That's the highest non-expansion setting in any Canon APS-C format SLR.The maximum continuous shooting rate can be set to 2-10fps in High mode, 1-9fps in Low and 1-4fps in Silent shooting mode.
When you press it, the menu that pops up remember the last thing you adjusted and leaves you there.
Had the Nikon D800 had the same flexibility to change the AEB to go by 2 or even 3 EV steps pr shot, it would have been a clear winner. Typically you see this problem if you try to focus on a smaller pattern, like bricks, fences, windows etc, which I happen to have included in my photos quite often, when means that I have had to adapt other ways of focusing. On the Canon 5D Mark III I wouldn’t recommend going higher on many other cameras going higher than ISO 1600 or 3200 gives so bad images that they are not worth using. The reason that you should shoot RAW, is that there is so much more data contained within the raw file.
A rate of 10fps is fantastic (although not as good as the 15fps offered by the mirrorless Samsung NX1), but some may find they need to use the slower continuous shooting rates for more sustained continuous shooting.The Canon 7D's autofocus system is widely respected, but the 7D Mark II improves upon it with a 65-point system, with all those points being the more sensitive cross-type. Or if the D600 had not been feature locked to a maximum of 3 AEB shots, that could have been in the game too. What a good low light performance gives you, is less noise in the photo, when you go really high on the ISO, and really high starts at around ISO 1600. When you start playing around with raising the shadows and post-processing your photo’s you really can tell the difference very easily. But on the second day in New Zealand the upper left hand corner had a lot of dust spots again.
Shooting RAW stores all information, the sensor was able to capture, at a certain ISO level, but not information that you could have caught, at another ISO level.
You can also change your shutter speed, aperture, ISO, exposure compensation, auto-exposure bracketing, flash exposure compensation, what type of file is written to each card, auto lighting optimizer, picture style type, drive mode and metering mode.
But just a few weeks ago Nikon finally acknowledged that there is a dust problem with Nikon D600 and I handed in my camera again.
This why we shoot several photos, with different exposures, when we make High Dynamic Range photos. Unlike the 70D, however, the speed at which the focusing occurs can be varied to allow for slower, more cinematic adjustments in video mode.Further good news for keen videographers is that Full HD video can be recorded in Mov or MP4 format at up to 60p in NTSC mode or 50p in PAL. This shows 100% of the field of view and is capable of displaying key information such as the drive mode when the appropriate control is used to make an adjustment. This is a shame as it would allow photographers to control the camera remotely via Canon's smartphone app. It seems odd that this is missing from Canon's top-end, enthusiast-level APS-C format camera when the full-frame Canon 6D, which is aimed at a similar audience, has it. A representative from Canon Europe told me that it has ben omitted because the metal body of the camera may compromise Wi-Fi performance.



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