If you have ever tried your hand at underwater photography, you will quickly realize that there is quite a bit of post production work required to produce professional quality images that have good white balance, nice contrast, sharp detail and vibrant colors. In this video tutorial, I explain my personal underwater photography editing workflow in detail, using both Lightroom and Photoshop. Before watching the video tutorial on how to edit underwater photography with Lightroom and Photoshop, I think it is important to understand that it is critical to start with underwater photos that are already high quality right out of camera.
If you are new to underwater photography, take a look at this article with eight tips for natural light underwater photography.
I also want to point out that in the video tutorial I use two Photoshop plugins – Topaz DeNoise and Topaz Detail. I know that sometimes Photoshop plugins seem like cheating, but to me, they are simply tools that make my life easier. Its also really annoying when you watch a video tutorial and a plugin was used to do the bulk of the work – so I just wanted to warn everyone up front (not that these two plugins really do the bulk of the work in this case).
If you don’t want to use Topaz DeNoise, you can do your noise reduction right in Lightroom with the built in noise reduction tools.


If you don’t want to use Topaz Detail, you can use a high-pass filter technique, or a combination of Smart Sharpen in Photoshop and Clarity in Lightroom to achieve similar results. But for my personal underwater photography workflow, Topaz DeNoise and Topaz Detail produce better results and are faster to use. To see more of his work please visit his studio website blurMEDIAphotography, or follow him on Twitter, 500px, Google Plus or YouTube. Warm up the photo and add some magenta, as I shoot with flash white balance and water absorbs the reds reeeeally quickly. My personal opinion of expanding a non-contrasty (underwater) photo to fill the whole histogram makes the photo a bit too much. Stefan Kohler is a conceptual photographer, specialized in mixing science, technology and photography.
When he isn't waking up at 4am to take photos of nature, he stays awake until 4am taking photos of the night skies or time lapses.
The -100 green adjusts the slightly green shadow side of the diver back to natural skin color, a very positive accidental find.


For open-water shooting my Tokina 11-16mm is too tele, the distance to the subject is usually too long and that looses contrast, pictures tend to be too flat. For pool work 14mm seems to be a good compromise between loosing contrast+colour and being able to control the exposure+composition. As the diver’s position might change (even if I try to brief so that they will not) the exposure will also change, which is obviously bad.
Shooting wide puts the subject close to the camera and small movements makes a big difference!
So best-case scenario is when the briefing went well and there is no need for exposure correction.



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Comments to «How to edit maternity photos in photoshop»

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