Here is a long list on everything you need to know about the new Nikon D750 camera. Feel free to add to the comments section if I have missed something. Nikon D750 is labeled as "Enthusiast" camera on Nikon USA website (together with the D610 and Df). The Nikon D750 has an alloy frame on the back and top and carbon fiber in the front (remember that rumor back from 2010?), from the press release: "adopts durable carbon fiber for the front body and front cover, and resilient magnesium alloy for the rear cover and top cover".
The D750 has the same AF and Power Aperture feature (for smooth transitions during recording) found in the $1,000 more expensive D810.
It seems that the fps rate of the Nikon D750 is 6.5 with or without the new MB-D16 battery grip but I cannot find any reliable source for that.
The Nikon D750 can lock AF in low light at -3EV with the Advanced Multi-Cam 3500-FX II AF system that is used in higher end models. As some readers have already noticed, the D750 (left) has a smaller top LCD screen than the D610 (right).
For more information, see also this specifications comparison between the Nikon D610, D750, D810 and Df cameras.
Ok, So all the comments were bumbing me out, and i was even moping about ditching my D4 .. You have been coasting on loyalty to your name and old reputation, but it has become clear that unless I spend more than I want for what I don’t need, you no longer care about the prosumer.
With Canon releasing the 7D Mkii and Samsung coming into play with their NX1, Nikon’s current DX lineup looks very outdated.
Do you think they did consider, at some point, an identical body to the D810, with similar features except: 16Mpix sensor, 8fps (and video-oriented enhancements), and at same price? Yes I guess it would be a D700 remake but I think from all accounts Nikon are a bit chastened by that experience commercially. So I guess there is room for a D9xxx that would come with global improvements over the D7xxx in a solid body.
However, the Canon’s 7D being an action camera, Nikon might be tempted to provide a direct competitor. So I should go ahead and buy the DX 7100 or the FX D750 without concerns that a new 7200 will be out in photokina?
Basically, a lower 24MP, high-speed, low-light-performing brother to the D810 at the same price point. Has anybody heard about a reflection coming from the mirror into the sensor that appears in the image? Step 2: Remove Broken GlassThe LCD glass is simply a protective covering over the LCD screen. There's only a few things you need to repair the glass.- broken LCD glass (futile attempt at sarcasm)- heat gun or blow dryer- small suction cup- replacement glass for your specific camera LCD. Have you ever looked at those awesome fireworks pictures and thought, damn, if only I could do that? In this article, I’ll explain what kind of settings you need to use, and everything else that will make fireworks photography as easy as possible. Some of the tips mentioned may only be appropriate to DSLR cameras, but you can also apply them to cameras that allow you to have at least some sort of control (at least the shutter speed). I really wish there was a free alternative, but in order to get those crisp, blur-free shots, your camera must be perfectly still.
If possible, get to the location a couple of hours before it starts (obviously bring your camera).
All of these can make your shot really interesting, but if you won’t be careful they could actually do more bad than good!
The black sky alone will work if the fireworks are interesting enough, but chances are you will end up with thousands of images that look identical to each other. Without a doubt, choosing the right settings is crucial for capturing beautiful fireworks images.
To get that professional fireworks look (long trails), you need to select a long shutter speed.
Don’t forget, these are just the most recommended settings that would give the best results in most cases. I have already said that camera shake is the one thing you don’t want on any of your shots. The kit 18-55mm with most DSLR cameras will be perfect, and point and shoot cameras are also in the similar range. Don’t expect to have professional like shots in the early beginning, so take as many pictures as you can (and even more than that) because some will be out of focus, or just not interesting enough. Nikon's new top-end DLSR is all about image quality - but is it missing too many techy features?
You'd need to know this, or own a D800, to notice, but either way the Nikon D810 offers grip firmer than the handshake of a 5ft army general with short man syndrome.
It's also the sort of size that fills rucksacks, especially if you're going to carry around a lens or two. The manual control dials all have the sort of reassuring clunky thunk that fits in perfectly with the lovely shutter sound and feel that you only really get with a real DSLR. Of course, all this applied to the Nikon D800E, and Nikon hasn't been silly enough to release a new camera without any improvements.
The 3.2-inch display on the back is the same size as 2012's models, but resolution has been increased from 921k dots to 1229k. What this means, for the non-screen-nerds out there, is that the D810 can dramatically increase the brightness of the rear display without using loads of extra juice - white pixels are perfect for doing this. While we tried the Nikon D810 out in Margate rather than Miami (yes, really), where the sun wasn't exactly dazzling, it is impressive stuff regardless.

Focus peaking is where the crispy bits around in-focus objects are highlighted to make manual focusing easier but it's missing from the D810, even when the rear display is used to compose a photo.
There are also several other features missing from the Nikon D810 that are present in loads of cameras, including ones several orders of magnitude cheaper.
The Panasonic GH4 has become a real hero among video fans because of its good 4K video capture, and not having it here is a huge missed opportunity.
The Nikon D810 provides really quite superb dynamic range too, meaning you get detail in bright clouds that might be overexposed in lesser cameras, for beautiful sunsets without using an HDR mode. There is an inbuilt HDR mode in the D810, but we honestly found it too slow to use handheld. Photos aren't going to be in a completely different league to the D800E, and we're not entirely sure it's worth the upgrade if you already own the older camera and don't make a living off your photos. The real benefit of a great full-frame camera is that you can dig deep into the higher ISO sensitivities without your photos looking like grainy garbage. As long as you know what settings not to use, it doesn't half make shooting fairly decent shots easy. ISO sensitivity goes from 64 all the way up to 12,800, an absolutely huge native range that can be expanded to 32 - 51,200. The Nikon D810 is very impressive on this front, although looking at the numbers the Canon 5D MKIII does get you even more, with 61 points, 41 of which are cross-type points.
Rather like the somewhat-unfriendly approach to HDR, the D810 doesn't have in-body image stabilisation. If you're a serious photographer willing to stump up the cash for at least a good lens or two, it's a fantastic buy. There is a discussion on dpreview about the spread of AF points in the D750's viewfinder being smaller than the spread in the D810's viewfinder - I don't think that's the case, but I could be wrong. No doubt it will be around a 24MP sensor with at least 8fps and a few hundred $$$ less than the over-priced Canon. I was hoping for a more robust build DX body, and (hopefully) a few first-class DX lenses to match.
Who knows, maybe Admin was right with his guess on Nikon giving up on the APS-C market due to mirrorless systems taking over. Once you get used to the quality of those high res images I don’t think you’ll go back! I’m not yet invested too heavily in Nikon lenses, but enough that it would hurt to jump ship at this point. If you takes pictures long enough you're going to crack the glass protecting the LCD screen on your DSLR.
I think we were all there once, and what made it worse is in my case is that even after buying more professional gear, I still had no clue on how to get the same look to my images.
Fireworks photography requires long shutter speeds, and any movement will make the shot look unappealing. You’ll most likely be in a crowded place and the last thing you want to do is annoy people with your tripod taking up way too much space.
Most cheaper tripods go up to 5 pounds (2kg), which is enough for a semi-professional DSLR with a heavier lens. Plan ahead and assume where most of the fireworks are going to be, and what sorts of objects around you could spice up your photographs. I’ve had plenty of images ruined because of trees I never noticed before, and city lamps can often make everything look overexposed. Most of the time you won’t even be looking through the viewfinder, but clicking on the shutter button once the sky is filled with colors. This is also where things get a little bit complicated if you’ve never heard a lot of the terms before, so spend some time on reading camera basics.
Definitely don’t waste such an amazing tool by using it in any of the pre-set, automatic modes. If it’s currently too much for you then stick to the Shutter Speed mode (Tv on Nikon, S on Canon), where you change the shutter speed and your camera takes care of the rest. Anything over a second will be fine, but the sweet spot is probably around 5 to 20 seconds. Choose Auto White Balance and JPEG format for high quality files and faster camera writing (RAW files are much bigger, but in return you can do more in post processing). See, even if you have a tripod, there’s still some shake after you press on the shutter button.
To get as much as possible into one picture, try shooting around 20mm and only zoom in if you want to make the shoot feel a bit tighter, or focus on a specific object. I have provided the EXIF information under every image in this tutorial so you can already get the basic feeling of how it’s going to be.
But if there's a camera class that's not going to be booted out by the Samsung Galaxy S6, it's the Nikon D810's.
That's as large as a sensor can go before diving into the weird world of medium format, where cameras often look like they're taking a trip in a hall of mirrors. You get fairly minor tweaks and changes from the two-year-old D800 and D800E, and perhaps not all the improvements you were hoping for. They look extremely similar - they're large DSLRs, but not ones with the gigantic battery that makes cameras such as the Nikon D4S look like they've been chomping down on steroids. Nikon has altered the grips for your right hand on the back and front a bit, making them more pronounced. It is worth noting quite how large the camera is if you're upgrading from a compact system camera or lower-end DSLR, though.
We tested the camera with the excellent 24-70mm f2.8 lens, which weighs about the same again. Aside from some plastic or rubber outer parts, the frame of the Nikon D810 is made of magnesium alloy, and it feels tough as nails.

And it's weatherproof, too, perfect for shooting on rainy days, as long as the lens you use is also going to be safe. Rather than a traditional increase in sharpness, Nikon has bunged an extra white subpixel into the usual red-green-blue sub pixel array.
Taking a further step back, this means the rear screen can offer great outdoors visibility even on sunny days without ruining the simply excellent 1,200 shot battery life.
Of course, most of you will want to peer through the viewfinder 99 per cent of the time anyway. These sorts of impersonation viewfinders generally look a lot worse than pure optical viewfinders like the Nikon D810's but they allow things like focus peaking as they're totally digital. This camera's arch rival the Canon 5D MKIII doesn't have 4K video either, but then that's two years old just like the Nikon D810's predecessors. If you're going to shoot in NEF (Nikon's version of RAW), you'll want a massive memory card too, as photos can reach close to 80MB. It's not going to cause as much fuss as (missing) 4K video, but if you have a recent laptop it'll speed-up transfers without you having to take out the card. Despite having the same size and resolution sensor as the older Nikon D800E, the D810 actually has a new sensor and it's one that can render absolutely loads of detail with a nice, sharp lens. Unless you use a tripod, you'll find clear ghosting - something smartphones use clever programming to avoid. And that means you can shoot in virtually any lighting condition, generally without needing a tripod for stability. Obviously, you won't want to get anywhere near the top end if you want to avoid noisy photos, but with the Nikon D810 you can push the ISO setting far more than you can with an APS-C or smaller sensor camera. These cross points use a team of two phase detection sensors, analysing light horizontally and vertically for even better focusing reliability. So while you can up the ISO to allow faster shutter speeds without huge underexposure, you can't indulge in slightly slower shutter speeds handheld unless you're using a lens with OIS. Despite having a new sensor and screen, the experience and results are not all that different from what's on offer in the Nikon D800E. Aside from some vocal enthusiasts advocating for mirrorless I don’t really see it gaining much traction amongst the average consumer. I would rather pay $3K for a high-speed, low-light equal to the D810, in terms of pro-build and cost, than have a D610 upgrade. I would like a comparable equivalent to the Canon 5D MkIII, Nikon…not another full-frame enthusiast camera. Spend a couple of minutes on getting a good composition, then focus more on making the shots look good.
For P&S owners, I recommend you to switch to any of the modes above as well and try how much you can change. Take use of the Bulb mode, where the shutter length depends on how long you hold down the shutter button. You can shoot with a self-timer and choose from 2 to 10 seconds, but you might actually miss a lot of beautiful opportunities.
It's big and chunky in its own right, but the Nikons D810 is about as good as DSLR cameras get while still retaining the look and feel of a normal high-end camera. It's a hefty package, and we imagine many people eyeing-up this camera may be considering a real high-performance lens like this. There's a wealth of control dials and customisable function modes, and the current settings are all telegraphed with fantastic clarity through the top monochrome LCD and the optical viewfinder's OLED overlay. That's especially as the optical viewfinder offers a crystal clear view with an excellent read-out of what your camera's up to, settings-wise.
The former is just a niggle given how poorly Wi-Fi is normally implemented in cameras, but the lack of 4K video is a real bummer. Switch to Live View, which uses the rear screen as the preview window, and the D810 switches to slower contrast detection.
Of course, if you want remotely fast burst shooting you will want to invest in a super-fast card. But it's a sign that this is a single-minded snapper, one that's all about photography and little else. I think we’ve ended up with a well round FX line up with something for everyone all be it at a price. Other helpful, but not necessary features, are a bubble level and a tripod that ends somewhere around your height.
Another really cool trick is to choose a 30 second exposure, and cover the lens with a black card when there are no fireworks.
It would be wise to buy a cheap cable release that you attach to the camera, and use it to take pictures with no delay!
However, even with the cheap, light and cheerful 50mm f1.8, you're still looking at a bulk of over a kilogram. Magnesium is harder and lighter than aluminium (although this is a magnesium-aluminium alloy).
By the time the dust settles the D610 will be ?1100 and an option if you’re thinking of mirror less.
We had some fallen D800’s that had severe damaged magnesium frames resulting in out-of-focus problems, where the structural integrity of the D700 is unbeaten.
This crack was caused when I closed the top and one of my gopros put too much pressure on the screen.

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