To learn dslr photography basics it is essential to understand the following concepts:Focusing, Aperture, shutter speed, exposure, exposure compensation, iso. At the left top side on the top of the dsrl camera there is a round controller called Mode dial. In order to not ruin your next shot, always switch back after setting exposure compensation. We usually set the aperture value with a dial in front of the camera below the shutter release.
With the same dial we can change shutter speeds and the camera calculates the aperture for that shutter speeds. The cameras has limitations, it means in bright sunlight we need to decide to burn out the highlights or blacken the shadows.
ISO is used if we want higher shutter speeds in dark situations or if we want higher shutter speeds with smaller apertures to freeze action.
2.Set an exposure compensation of +1 and -1 experiment with this, make picture of bright scenes and dark scenes, try to make pictures you want to do.
Dslr camera focusing tips for beginners, New to dslr photography and want a good basic lesson in focusing? Beginner's dilemma #1: choosing first camera, Here is the best choice for a beginners first camera!. DSLR Camera Focusing Tips for Beginners New to DSLR photography and want a good basic lesson in focusing?
Beginner's Dilemma #1: Choosing First Camera Here is the best choice for a beginners first camera!
There can be lots of tips and tricks to improve your photography and get the best out of your DSLR.
If you shoot some subject repetitively in same manner, then you can store you settings in custom settings button on mode dial. Generally its not recommended to use a very High ISO but your DSLR is usually capable to go beyond ISO 6400.
RGB or Adobe RGBA squeezes colors into a smaller range (makes them duller) before recording them to your file.
Most DSLRs have the option of embedding copyright information in the image via camera itself.
There are inbuilt programs to reduce the noise inside the camera itself after the image has been taken. If your DSLR supports timelapsing then you can create cool timelapse videos with simple softwares.
Most kit lenses and extreme wide angle lenses have some distortion due to optical elements.
You can crop, saturate, adjust contrast, remove red eye etc inside the camera itself using the inbuilt retouching function.
Some time there are situation especially during dusk when the subject in-front of camera is well lit but behind him there is darkness. You can set 3 to 5 different exposure value which are called brackets and then keep the shutter pressed to take images with same composition but different exposures like A -2, 0 and +2 . There are chances that you may be tempted to press the delete all option on your camera while deleting images. If we don’t make a picture, this whole is usually not the same size, when we actually make the picture.


Zoom lenses sometimes has two numbers: the first number shows the aperture in wide setting, the other number in tele setting.
It is usually represented with a +- icon in a black box and we see a +- scale on the camera, or called exposure compensation in the menu.
Typical mistake to let exposure compensation on some value after the next shot with different circumstances going to be too dark or too light, not really correctable afterwards. If we turn the dial we see on the back LCD or on the top LCD if the camera has one, that the value is changing. Couldn’t make the picture as it is, because the camera cannot cover the whole range of light levels.
For example, if you shoot Portraits indoor regularly under same lighting conditions then you can store the settings under the custom mode (C1, C2 for Canon and U1, U2 for Nikon). Special smart software is then needed to expand the colors back to where they should be when opening the file.A Adobe RGB may be able to represent a slightly larger range of colors, but no screen or print material which you are going to use in daily lifeA can show this broader range, so why cause yourself all the trouble? Usually new cameras get frequent firmware updates to remove any software related error which may have been noticed after the roll out. Check out your camera manual if your DSLR supports it, or drop us a comment and we will find it for you.
You can get almost similar magnification with some cheap magnification filters available online. They reduce lens flare which is due to some light coming from the sides and then they act as lens (front element) protectors A against bumps. Here we can select the different modes: Aperture priority (A), Shutter speed(S, or Tv), P(program), M (manual) and different scene mode usually like snow, portrait, landscape, etc usually presented with on icon.
Before make the picture we look through the viewfinder to see how the picture will be look like. Try to look through the lens, and try it again when you release the shutter(push the buttom which makes the photo). If you check this you can realise there is approximately 1.4 proportion between the neighboring numbers. If we want to shoot action we use higher shutter speed, if we want artistic blur on the picture we use lower shutter speed. Sometimes it changes automatically if we zoom with the lens, the reason that the lens has different maximum aperture at the two ends of the zoom range. From the black to white there is a value of 20 for example, but our camera only can handle 10. Half pressing it locks the focus and other settings and will give you a green signal or beep to notify that the subject has been locked.
You can check the firmware number in your camera menu and confirm the latest firmware on the website of that model. However while using a macro filter you to close your aperture very small like f11 to f18 to get a good depth of field which means more light required. The camera will take two exposures and blend them to expose both the subject and the background evenly. These 3 images may be imported in softwares like Photomatix or Photoshop to automatically create a High Dynamic Range Image. You can find all these tutorials in the main menu under the Photography tips for beginners tab. For longer telephoto lenses higher shutter speed is needed for wide angle lenses lower shutter speed is enough.


The camera calculates the light levels and apertures and shutter speeds to fit the light levels. With + exposure compensation we make the picture brighter with – we make the picture darker. We need to decide which is more important in our picture: the sky blue colour(instead of burned out white) or details in the shadow instead of black colour.
The goal with white balance to eliminate non-realistic color casts from the photo, and what is white on the scene, would be white on the picture.
If you dona€™t find a mini diffuser just wrap a white tissue paper around and you are good to go. You can buy a cheap ring-light if really interested in macro but dona€™t want to blow your budget.
Remember that if you press format button then all the images will be deleted irrespective of lock status. In Program mode the camera also works automatically, but let us adjust some parameters like iso, exposure compensation, white balance, etc. If the whole is smaller, more item is sharp in the picture in the foreground and background(preferred for landscapes), if the whole is bigger the background and foreground are more blurred.(preferred for portraits). In case of snow we want the picture brighter we set a compensation value of +1 for example. There is a way to do this if we make several pictures: one more bright here we see more detail in the shadow, some darker here we see the blue sky and put it together with a software or in camera, this we called HDR (High dynamic range) picture.
White balance can be adjusted in the camera usually with a button with WB on it, or from the menu.
If the whole is bigger more light enters the camera, if the whole is smaller less light enters the camera. If we substitute the colours presented on the picture, we just use one colour, it would be 18% grey. Imagine a bird sitting right behind few branches on a Tree, in that case auto-focus will mostly focus on the branch. If more light enters the camera, the camera makes the picture faster, if less light enters the camera, the camera makes the picture slower.
If we press the round button on the right side of the top of the camera(shutter release button) halfway the camera focuses, after we push the button totally the camera makes the picture.
So in simply if dark is outside we open the whole as much as we can to make the picture faster, in order not to be blurred the picture, if bright outside we make the whole smaller, in order not to burn out the picture (parts of the picture going to be white with no details or colors). There is another option of manual override in some models, where camera will auto-focus but you can override the focus manually if its not perfect. This way the camera let much more light in and the whole picture would be too bright or burned out. If we focuses for example 5m, the things we see closer to 5m we call foreground, the scenery behind we call background.
If we use not the center point we can realise if we focus for close distances which part of the picture is the sharpest.




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