A zoom burst, or zoom blur, is a fantastic photographic effect which is simple, fun and easy to achieve. You can use a zoom burst to add movement and action to your photos, and to give them an abstract quality.
You don’t need any fancy equipment to get started with zoom bursts - just a DSLR with a zoom lens and an optional tripod.
If your shot is overexposed, try using a narrower aperture, fitting an ND filter or reducing the shutter speed.
Snapping a zoom blur photo is all about timing, and it can be tricky to get right, so you’ll need to be patient. Virtually any subject can produce a striking zoom effect, but generally ones with plenty of colour and pattern work best. Instead of turning your lens’s zoom ring, hold it perfectly still and rotate the camera instead. In the above tutorial you started with the camera zoomed out, and then moved in on the subject.
The zoom burst effect is perfectly suited to night time photography because of the long exposure times involved. Rather than continuously moving the lens for the entire shot, try pausing for a moment at the start or end of the exposure, or even in the middle.
Taking zoom blur photos is all about creativity, so experiment and see if you can put your own unique twist on things. Now YOU Can Create Mind-Blowing Artistic Images With Top Secret Photography Tutorials With Step-By-Step Instructions! Because of the practical shortcut secrets you're about to find out, you'll quickly be able to skip the "amateur photographer" stage that usually takes years to get past… and you'll be a much better photographer from the very next time you take a shot.
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Enter your email below to get exclusive access to our best articles and tips before everybody else. First, let’s define what a stuck pixel is and give you an example of one so you have an immediate frame of reference.
The left side shows two stuck pixels (one bright blue and one bright white) as seen at 100 percent crop in a JPEG image captured off a Nikon D80 camera. A stuck pixel is distinct from other common artifacts and imperfections found in a digital image.

There are a variety of ways to approach the stuck pixel problem that range from free to expensive and simple to complex. If your camera is in-warranty you can send it in to a repair facility and they’ll run diagnostics on your camera and map out the dead pixels. Some manufacturers, such as Olympus, include pixel mapping features in their cameras’ firmware.
More than a few delighted photographers have reported that the automatic cleaning process decreased or eliminated their stuck pixel problem. As we mentioned earlier in the article, the reason stuck and dead pixels look so big on the final JPEG image is a result of the filters the camera runs on them during the in-camera processing.
Let’s see how that looks in action by showing you a picture captured on the same Nikon D80 we mentioned earlier. Let’s take a look a full size crop of the photo then at a zoomed in comparison shot highlighting the same space in the RAW and JPEG formats. It’s difficult to see the pixels at normal resolution and viewing distance, so we took the liberty of circling them for you.
Any dead or stuck pixels will be completely mapped out when using the RAW format paired with an appropriate RAW reader. Shooting in RAW from here on out can fix the problem, but what if you don’t want to shoot in RAW (because of memory and size considerations) or you have lots of photos with stuck pixels taken before you noticed the problem?
Before we show you how to do this trick, we have to emphasize that the set of actions you’re about to create will only work on photos from the same camera and at the same resolution as the original photo you used to create the action for. With your ISO 800+ millisecond exposure in hand fire up a sufficiently powerful photo editor like Photoshop or Gimp. With your reference photo open, scour the image looking for anything that isn’t pure black. Now that we have a reference photo we can create an action set that records the actions necessary to remove the stuck pixels in our image. Once clearly named and with the tool recording toggled on, click the record icon (the circle button) at the bottom of the Actions window. Pour over your image again and use the healing brush to touch up every stuck pixel you find. Now you can apply your fine-tuned Action set to any of the older photos you have from the same camera that suffer from the same defects. Although pixel defects are a fact of life that doesn’t mean you have to live with them. Jason Fitzpatrick is a warranty-voiding DIYer who spends his days cracking opening cases and wrestling with code so you don't have to. DID YOU KNOW?During World War II, coffee rationing led Americans to turn to Postum, a powdered roasted-grain coffee substitute comprised of wheat bran, wheat, molasses, and maltodextrin; although the popularity of Postum plummeted after the war, it still sells well today in Utah and other Mountain States. Disclaimer: Most of the pages on the internet include affiliate links, including some on this site.
We’ll be using a long shutter speed so this will help keep the blurry lines straight.
Constantly review your shots on your camera’s LCD screen and make any necessary adjustments as you go along. Try photographing things like stained glass windows or city lights as these produce some beautiful, colourful streaks.
Switch things around and start with your lens fully zoomed in, and then pull out from the scene. This freezes the subject in sharp focus, but keeps the blurred effect for added creative impact.
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So I'm going to teach you the exact same shortcuts I used to become a skilled, effective photographer in no time flat. You'll be taken to your 100% secure order pageA (I use Clickbank to process the payments with their world-class 128 bit security encryption to make sure everything is safe). THIS PRODUCT IS NOT ENDORSED OR SPONSORED BY ADOBE SYSTEMS INCORPORATED, PUBLISHER OF AdobeA® PhotoshopA® software. The most important thing to clarify right off the bat is that we are not talking about issues with pixels located on your camera’s on-camera LCD display screen.
The sensor is a tiny array of photodiodes arranged in a grid just like your computer monitor is a large array of pixels. This stuck pixel can therefore be bright blue, green, or red if only some of the photodiodes are stuck or pure white if all the diodes for that particular pixel are stuck at their maximum value. When a digital camera is used for extended exposures (such as photographing star trails or other photo projects that require exposures that measure in seconds) the CMOS sensor heats up. Read over the various techniques and decide what your camera warranty, budget, and patience will allow for. If one goes bad it’s not the end of the world (but when a few of them turn bright blue or green, it sure is distracting). If you just bought a new camera (or it’s still well within warranty) and you have a high number of stuck or dead pixels, by all means send it back in for repair. Essentially a tiny motor vibrates the housing of the CMOS sensor to an ultrasonic frequency (just like those high-priced toothbrushes and jewelry cleaning machines) in a bid to shake off motes of dust that have clung to the sensor glass. Given that this is essentially the microscopic version of gently massaging the pixels on an LCD screen to unstick them, we can see how it just might work. Let’s take a look at the automatic, semi-automatic, and manual ways you can mend your photos.
You know the easiest way to avoid the bloom around each defective pixel and to get rid of them altogether? This camera, and many like it, will capture both a RAW image and process it into a JPEG image which is perfect for our purposes as we’ll get a chance to look at the exact same photo and compare.
The top one is the same bright blue pixel from the sample photo earlier in the article, again paired with the brighter whitish green one.
Because Photoshop and Gimp will remember the exact coordinates of the individual brush strokes you make if you apply the action set to any other size photo or from a different camera with a different set of defective pixels, it won’t work.
The key is that you need to be able to heal or blend these spots and you need to be able to record yourself doing the actions (if you wish to batch the process, as we will in a moment). As we mentioned before, you can do this manually for each photo but as long as you have an image editor that supports any sort of action macros, it makes little sense not to take advantage of it.

When you’re done press the stop button icon to finish the process and save the action set. Armed with the tricks and techniques outlined in this tutorial you’ll never need to suffer through a photo with a laser-beam-red dot or neon-blue smear marring your photos again.
If it can be modded, optimized, repurposed, or torn apart for fun he's interested (and probably already at the workbench taking it apart). If you don’t have a tripod you can stand your camera on a wall or lean against a tree. If your camera allows it, lock the focus and exposure at this point, so you know they’ll be correct when the subject is filling the frame. Try to zoom as smoothly as possible, maintaining a constant speed throughout and finishing just before the end of your exposure. There are tons of ways to create a bokeh effect, whether you go the traditional route with lens filters, digital with Photoshop, or even from your iPhone. Read on as we discuss what distinguishes stuck pixels from other sensor defects and problems, how to identify it, and how to fix it both in-camera and out. Any problems you may have with the LCD screen are certainly irritating but they don’t affect your images in anyway (just the display of those images on the camera body). Just like your monitor uses millions of pixels combined with backlighting to create an image you can view, the CMOS sensor has millions of pixels that capture light combined with a processing algorithm to create an image you can view.
These noise reduction filters are handy for cleaning up long exposures but cannot help with dead or stuck pixels. Check out our guide on cleaning DSLR sensors to both identify if dust is the source of your problem and how to banish it if it is.
That’s expensive but on the upside it usually includes a professional camera cleaning as part of the diagnostic services. A black reference frame is taken and any detected stuck pixels are mapped out; no trip to a repair center necessary. We’re not too keen on shelling out hundreds of dollars for a service call that maps out stuck pixels, however, for a simple reason. Grab your camera and switch it to manual mode (if your camera doesn’t have a manual mode, approximate these settings as closely as you can). Anything that even remotely resembles a colorful or white speck, blob, or point of light you should never see in a camera that has a lens cap on, however, is a stuck pixel. You can pause the process if you need to by pressing the stop button icon (and resume it by pressing the recording icon) located at the bottom of the Actions window. Don’t be surprised if you have dozens of brush strokes or more recorded in your action list. We took that photo without a companion RAW file, so there’s no way we can fix it without editing the JPEG.
You may find, as we did, that a few escaped your watchful eye during the initial action creation process.
You can even hand-hold your camera if you don’t mind a slightly wobbly feel to your photo - this can actually look really good, so give it a go.
Issues you have with the LCD screen on a camera are much like the issues found with desktop monitors as the design is quite similar. When everything works well, you don’t give much thought to those microscopic photodiodes.
The actual stuck pixel is a fixed location but as the camera processes the raw input from the CMOS sensor using a demosaicing process and Bayer filter the single point of failure in the sensor ends up taking on this spot-like appearance. Some of the techniques we’ll outline today will in fact take care of dead pixels but our primary focus is on stuck pixels as they are easy to remedy and they stand out significantly more (as the eye is drawn to unnaturally bright spots against dark backgrounds). When it comes time to process the photos just use a RAW processing tool like Adobe Photoshop, Adobe Lightroom, or RawTherapee as these tools will interact with the RAW format provided by your camera (and the embedded pixel information) and actively map out the hot pixels.
Try out the brush to see if it removes the color (and returns the area to pure black) in one or two clicks.
If you do not check this, the Action process won’t record the tools we use, which is critical to the success of this process. Using the Action function to map out all the defective pixels on our aging D80 required 46 individual brush strokes. Meanwhile, the size of this hole is physically controlled by a series of blades that open or close in response to the aperture size set by the photographer. There isn’t much that can be done for on-camera display issues short of returning it for repair. When things start to malfunction, however, suddenly one (or many) of the little guys take center stage in your photos.
Rather than shell out serious cash every time a few crop up again, it’s worthwhile to use other techniques to banish them. With the image loaded (remember it has to be the same size as your reference photo) and your action set selected, press the play icon on the Action toolbar to run the action set.
Snap a few shots (and if you want to be really analytical about it, adjust the ISO up and down so you can compare the results for fun).
Simply select the Spot Healing Brush again, make sure it’s the size you want, and then press the record button. Touch up any of the stuck pixels you find and then stop recording to save the extra brush strokes. For each one, he cut a circle out of the black paper, then cut a shape out of the center and put on Velcro so that it could be attached to the filter. Any trademarks, service marks, personal names or product names are assumed to be the property of their respective owners and are used only for reference. There is no implied sponsorship, affiliation, certification, approval, or endorsement if we use one of these terms. When shooting at a larger aperture with a shallow depth of field, the shape of the aperture can be harder to identify since it's still largely circular. However, when stopped down to a smaller aperture, out-of-focus elements in the foreground may begin to take on a more clearly defined, hard-edged shape — thanks, in part, to the aperture blades.. This is another reason why manufacturers tend to produce lenses with a higher number of aperture blades; the more blades, the less defined these shapes become, which can make for a more pleasing background, or bokeh.

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