My first love in photography when I first got my trusty old Minolta SLR as a teenager was landscape photography.
While there may be times that you want to get a little more creative and experiment with narrow depth of fields in your Landscape Photography – the normal approach is to ensure that as much of your scene is in focus as possible.
Do keep in mind that smaller apertures mean less light is hitting your image sensor at any point in time so they will mean you need to compensate either by increasing your ISO or lengthening your shutter speed (or both). PS: of course there are times when you can get some great results with a very shallow DOF in a landscape setting (see the picture of the double yellow line below).
As a result of the longer shutter speed that you may need to select to compensate for a small aperture you will need to find a way of ensuring your camera is completely still during the exposure. Focal points can take many forms in landscapes and could range from a building or structure, a striking tree, a boulder or rock formation, a silhouette etc. One element that can set apart your landscape shots is to think carefully about the foreground of your shots and by placing points of interest in them.
Most landscapes will either have a dominant foreground or sky – unless you have one or the other your shot can end up being fairly boring.
Consider enhancing skies either in post production or with the use of filters (for example a polarizing filter can add color and contrast). One of the questions to ask yourself as you take Landscape shots is ‘how am I leading the eye of those viewing this shot’? Lines give an image depth, scale and can be a point of interest in and of themselves by creating patterns in your shot.
When most people think about landscapes they think of calm, serene and passive environments – however landscapes are rarely completely still and to convey this movement in an image will add drama, mood and create a point of interest. Examples – wind in trees, waves on a beach, water flowing over a waterfall, birds flying over head, moving clouds.
Capturing this movement generally means you need to look at a longer shutter speed (sometimes quite a few seconds).
You drive up to the scenic lookout, get out of the car, grab your camera, turn it on, walk up to the barrier, raise the camera to your eye, rotate left and right a little, zoom a little and take your shot before getting back in the car to go to the next scenic lookout. Take a little more time with your shots – particularly in finding a more interesting point of view to shoot from. Explore the environment and experiment with different view points and you could find something truly unique.

I didn’t see any points about using a neutral density filter to control the lighting. I am also going for a ten day wild animal outback photography trip in our Kruger National Park, South Africa–I have a Canon 650D and my telephoto lens is a 75-300mm. I am very interested in this article, many useful things that I can get to make better photography skills. I have been a photographer for 3 years, but I still feel like I haven’t been able to capture stunning landscapes.
Increasing the ISO settings in your camera  always used when you are taking photos in the dim light.
White Balance: (WB) is the process of removing unrealistic color casts so that objects which appear white in person are rendered white in your photo. Download Facebook Videos online using this Facebook Video Downloader just Paste the URL of the Facebook video in the box above, then click Download to get the direct video link.
Read my post on Macro Photography, Street Photography, HDR Photography, Canon Digital SLR Camera, Lens and Accessories reviews.
Here are my favorite shots from last weeks football match between the Commanders and Raiders.
This entry was posted in Sports Photography and tagged in canon sports, commanders, ed white, high school, high school sports, orange park, raiders, sports, sports photography. There’s something about getting out in nature with the challenge of capturing some of the amazing beauty that you see.
The simplest way to do this is to choose a small Aperture setting (a large number) as the smaller your aperture the greater the depth of field in your shots. In fact even if you’re able to shoot at a fast shutter speed the practice of using a tripod can be beneficial to you. When you do this you give those viewing the shot a way into the image as well as creating a sense of depth in your shot.
However if the sky is filled with drama and interesting cloud formations and colors – let it shine by placing the horizon lower.
There are a number of ways of doing this (foregrounds is one) but one of the best ways into a shot is to provide viewers with lines that lead them into an image.
Of course this means more light hitting your sensor which will mean you need to either go for a small Aperture, use some sort of a filter or even shoot at the start or end of the day when there is less light.

Look for storms, wind, mist, dramatic clouds, sun shining through dark skies, rainbows, sunsets and sunrises etc and work with these variations in the weather rather than just waiting for the next sunny blue sky day.
The other reason that I love these times is the angle of the light and how it can impact a scene – creating interesting patterns, dimensions and textures.
This might start with finding a different spot to shoot from than the scenic look out (wander down paths, look for new angles etc), could mean getting down onto the ground to shot from down low or finding a higher up vantage point to shoot from. I have a real issue with my landscape photos, and I’m looking to spend some time improving them, hopefully these tips will help. For example one of the seascape shots I am certain that you used an ND Gradient filter to darken the sky and get the incoming wave. Do you have some good reading material for shooting animals and birds—moving and still shots? I like the style of the writing on this website, simple and easy to understand as in this article makes the reader easy in practice the tips given. There are many uses for filters like this, but for the landscape photographer the two key characteristics are their ability to cut out reflections and nasty glare from a scene and the increased color intensity, saturation and contrast they create.
My favorite pictures in the world are pictures of beautiful landscape, but I have never had the right lighting. Perhaps it fits with my personality type – but I loved the quietness and stillness of waiting for the perfect moment for the shot, scoping out an area for the best vantage point and then seeing the way that the light changed a scene over a few hours.
I used to follow it religiously but found it was limiting my ability to think outside the box.
Thank you for this very useful tips, keep giving tips are easy to understand and inspire others. For example I find shooting frosty scenes sometimes works better in post sunrise harsh light when the last orange glow has gone from the dawn, the white daylight helps to lift the bright white of frosty scene and exaggerates the contrast between the dark trees and bushes and the frost on top of them ( example below was shot about 90 minutes after sunrise ). Photography is not a race to take shots, it’s a lifelong journey of making great images.

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