My biggest source of support for this free website is when you use those or any of these links when you get anything, regardless of the country in which you live. My D7100 is an awesome camera, with ultra-sharp images and great colors; better colors and better LCD accuracy than any of the D4, D800, D800E or D600 I bought last year! The D7100 is new in that it has an ordinary 24 MP sensor, but without an anti-alias filter for added sharpness.
Even better, there's an aperture-ring feeler, so it meters with all AI and newer (1977-on) manual-focus lenses.
It's pretty much the same as 2010's D7000, with the addition of a stereo mic and headphone jack for video, a higher-resolution sensor, 51 vs. The D7100's OLED display is just for the shooting data in the finder, not the finder image display. There's also an inexplicably silly 1.3x crop mode, in which the frame rate climbs to 7 FPS. The D7100 is very slightly bigger than the D7000, and very slightly (0.5 oz or 15g) lighter than the D7000.
The D7100 has the same battery and charger as the D7000, but is rated for 10% fewer shots per charge (only 950 for D7100 versus 1,050 for D7000). Even at its lowest resolution setting and with my favorite fixed 35mm lens, there's more than enough sharpness for cropping when you don't feel like lugging a telephoto lens when you're with the family. As you can see, even at the SMALL 6 megapixel setting as I use for my family photos, everything looks great - from color and white balance to sharpening, whoo hoo! Even in very dark light, my D7100 always focuses, and never stops or gives up as my D600 will do if it gets too dark. If the light is so dim that you need ISO 6,400, you ought to do something to improve the light. The reason this is a gotcha for casual shooters is that High ISO NR won't fix it (High ISO NR is only for high-frequency noise, and this is a simple level-shift along the bottom edge), and Long Exposure NR won't do anything either, since even if set ON, it doesn't work until the exposure get to one second, which isn't where we hand-hold. No worries, the easy fix for the serious digital photographer is to use a levels adjustment layer mask in Photoshop.
If you've found the time and expense I incur to share all this for free, the biggest source of support for this free website is when you use these links, especially these directly to the D7100 at Adorama (either body-only or with 18-105mm VR lens) or at Amazon as a body-only or kit with 18-105mm VR lens, when you get yours. I wouldn't order it with the 18-105mm VR lens, which is a pretty boring lens for $400 extra. If you insist, the 18-200mm VR II (or 18-300mm DX) is all you need for everything, except for action in low light, but either is very big and heavy.
The biggest help is when you use any of these links when you get anything, regardless of the country in which you live. As this page is copyrighted and formally registered, it is unlawful to make copies, especially in the form of printouts for personal use. As mentioned above you can also get the Rokinon Cine 14mm T3.1 Which is a cinema version built with a De-Click aperture ring and Follow Focus Capabilities. And check out the Full Rokinon Cine Lens Kit - 35mm + 24mm + 14mm + 85mm + 8mm on Amazon It's a pretty killer deal. I also saw a few reviews, particularly one by kenrockwell who had a bad experience with his lens. I also get several emails a week now from people who are on the fence about this lens, afraid of getting a bad copy.
Agle of View: The Rokinon does shoot wider than the Voigtlander and Sony, but you'll have to crop slightly when correcting for the distortion.
Final Thoughts:  If you're a Sony shooter and don't mind a lens that is not as wide and you can afford it, I highly recommend you go with the Sony 16-35mm F4.
If you want to see more comparisons between my Ultra Wide lenses, I'm working on an article that compares all the best ultra wide lenses for the Sony E-Mount.
Optically I find the Samyang to be edge to edge slightly sharper than the Canon 16-35mm f2.8L II, except at infinity the Canon is slightly sharper at the center.
The Canon lens also has pretty bad chromatic aberrations in the edges when shooting in high contrast areas. The Samyang is not weather sealed like the Canon or Sony nor does it have a front mounting threads. Since originally writing this review Canon released a new 16-35mm f4 that is much much sharper in everyway.


I've found the sweet spot to shooting landscapes on this lens is somewhere between f11 and f16.
Remember the distance focus marks on the lens cannot be trusted, I usually just make mental notes of where infinity focus is and go from there.
Walt Disney Hall in Los Angeles - Very sharp and crisp detail when shot at f16 and sharpened in post. Like any lens it requires a lot of "Getting Use To." It took me awhile to figure out how to shoot good photos with this thing. The reason I say this is because I get a lot of emails from people who buy this lens, then take a few shots around their living room or in their backyard then aren't happy because the lens isn't perfect. It's best used for landscapes where you can find that infinity point and shoot at an f16 to keep everything in focus.
Here are the test or sample of photos I've taken with my Rokinon 14mm f2.8 on the Canon 5Dmkii.
When I can snap constellations of stars in the sky as I walk down the street, complete with full autofocus and exposure and everything, and get clean results like this, DX cameras have come far enough for anything. This new Nikon D7100 is the same thing, and even better, making the D7100 the world's best DX camera ever. Honestly, it won't make much, if any, visible difference at less than 6-foot (2-meter) wide print sizes, and only if you use the very finest NIKKOR lenses and technique. The D7100 also gives full-color Matrix metering and EXIF data with manual-focus lenses if you share the lens' data in a menu. 39 AF points, a slightly larger LCD, and a first in any SLR: an OLED data display in the finder (Sony, Fuji and other cameras with OLED finders today aren't SLRs).
From the 1980s through yesterday, all electronic Nikon finder data displays have been LCDs, usually backlit with a green LED. No previous Nikon's auto LCD brightness control has worked properly; so we'll see about the D7100. Also great is the sharpness even set down to its lowest 6MP resolution setting, as I prefer to shoot my family photos.
In very dim light as I'll show below, my D7100 has no problem autofocusing, while my older Nikons like my D600 or even the Canon 6D will occasionally hang-up and not be able to focus. This is usually invisible, and even if it was far worse, is extraordinary performance for any camera. Simply drag the right (black) slider on the blue channel up a bit to the fog level, and paint-in a mast to apply this only the small region with the fog. They both have U1 and U2 Instant Recall Modes, two SD card slots and 2,016-segment RGB light meters, all new two years ago on the D7000. I don't care, but have been told that the D300s can only shoot at 2.5 fps at 14-bit RAW, while the D7100 can still shoot 6 fps at 14-bit RAW. If you want to get the sharpness I showed at the top in my D7100 Sample Images, you need superb lenses. Honestly, if I want a zoom to carry around, I prefer the much smaller, lighter and less expensive featherweight 18-55mm VR.
Either of the 55-200mm VR or 55-300mm VR are excellent, but for action, the 70-300mm VR has much faster autofocus. The built-in works great, but the SB-400 recycles for each next shot much, much faster, and saves the D7100's battery life, as well as offering longer range when needed. It probably is all you need unless you're shooting professional sports or portraits outdoors all day at rapid speeds. If you wish to make a printout for personal use, you are granted one-time permission only if you PayPal me $5.00 per printout or part thereof.
What I've learned was the people giving the bad reviews were criticizing the lens because it was all manual. I've seen people posting this review and discussing it and many people didn't buy this lens because of it. My lens does not exhibit the bad qualities he speaks of which you can see in my test shots below. I always tell them not to worry about it since people vocalize a lot more when they receive a bad copy than when they receive a good copy. Now I get a lot of emails from Sony uses wondering if they should buy this lens or the Sony 16-35mm f4.


When I was on a tight budget this lens was perfect for me and really helped built my portfolio.
You can find that here on this page Sony E-Mount Ultra Wide Comparison.  It's work in progress since I'm still developing charts and web code to better compare all these lenses.
Instead of buying that Canon 14mm f2.8L II that I mentioned above, I actually decided to buy both these lenses instead. Compared to the Sony 16-35mm the Sony outperforms corner to corner, the Samyang might be slightly sharper in the center but it's very close. So when shooting in harsh environments, like the beach or the desert, I'd pick the Canon or Sony since it also accepts front screw on UV or ND filters that can protect the lens or creates cool effects. For example, I love my Zeiss 35mm lens that I got with my Sony A7r but the diffraction of that lens is terrible at higher apertures making the lens no good for landscape photography. Don't let the lens be too close to the ground while trying to focus on something in the distance, the ground will always look like crap.
Luckily, Polaroid’s new Socialmatic camera combines the best of both worlds, enabling instant photo printing and social media sharing from a single device. Potential incompatibility with future cameras is one of the steep prices one pays for trying to save a few dollars yesterday on a cheap lens. Photographers have been using this technique since the 1990s to fix light-leaked film, too. These places have the best prices and service, which is why I've used them since before this website existed.
If you have any concerns of the quality of this lens just read all the good reviews over at Amazon. The Sony seems to correct them and bake the data into the RAW files so it's much harder to compare. Even though this is based on physics and the size of the pixels on the sensor, I've found some lenses to perform differently when it comes to spherical aberrations and diffraction.
A camera with smaller pixels like the Sony A7r will handle diffraction much worst than something with large pixels like a Canon 5dMkiii.
Just finding infinity focus at night can be hard since you have to use live view and there is a ton of grain in live view at night.
But after spending $400 dollars on it, I stuck with it and kept using it until I figured out how to make it work for me. Think about it, if you're shooting something 20 feet away, say on a beach, and you have the beach sand right below the camera which is 2 feet away, it will not be sharp or in focus. Your California Privacy Rights The material on this site may not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, cached or otherwise used, except with the prior written permission of Conde Nast.
By purchasing from approved sources, you are assured of the best selection, best prices and best service. Nikon shares nothing with its competitors about lens compatibility, so if you want to buy a Tamron or Sigma, you're gambling that it will work with tomorrow's camera. It's possible these people just didn't know what they were getting into, plus the lens can come with auto focus for Nikon users. By downloading these you'll be prompted to give your email which will include you in my newsletter. But it's really hard to notice, and I've dropped my lens at least five times over the last few years.
When I compare it to the Sony 16-35mm side by side at f5.6, the Rokinon shoots almost a full stop darker. If you see my photos below you'll notice I try to keep the scene at a relatively consistent focal distance.
So there ends up being almost no advantage to it being an f2.8 lens since it performs almost more like an f4 lens anyway.



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