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Michelle Dockery as Lady Mary: As Downton Abbey viewers know, dining in fine style was de rigueur in Edwardian England.
If you've ever watched the television show Downton Abbey, you've probably deduced that dining was a very, very big deal in the lives of the landed gentry of Edwardian England. As cookbooks of the era attest, middle and upper-class cooking standards were actually quite high before the war, Day says.
The class system which lies behind all these historical fantasies was, in reality, a deplorable thing. This experiment was repeated, so that, by the end of filming, the families lived through five periods – from the rather formal existence of the Edwardian era right up to the socially liberal flares-and-Formica days of the 1970s. Many Edwardian servants had a pretty good handle on advanced cuisines, says food historian Ivan Day.

But, on the evidence I saw when I visited the families at the end of their Edwardian week, they fully immersed themselves in their new lives. While life expectancy for the middle and upper classes has not changed dramatically since those days (though obviously we now have antibiotics, which can lengthen such lives by a few years), life expectancy for the working classes has doubled. But far from being the serene, rosy existence painted by Downton Abbey, Edwardian life proved so tough that one of the volunteers threatened to pull out – and it was one you’d least expect. The last thing fans of these programmes want is to be confronted with the cruel reality of what life was like in late Victorian and Edwardian England, where there were children dying of starvation on the streets of most big cities, where 80,000 prostitutes, most of them riddled with incurable syphilis, plied their trade on the streets of London, and where the average age of death for a working-class man was 35. The existence of the class system and of the servant class in Britain was maybe less brutal than the slave system. No, these programmes, which supposedly depict life for the upper classes and their good-humoured servants, bear as much relationship to reality as Pirates Of The Caribbean does to the real world of rum, sodomy and the lash of 18th century life at sea.

Then they kitted out the homes just as they would have been in the early 1900s, with Edwardian coal-fired kitchen ranges, cast iron fireplaces and the need for plenty of elbow grease. As farmers left the fields for factories, industrial foods replaced fresh ones in urban workers' diets.

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