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Leaky gutters can be repaired with wire screening for small holes or sheet metal patches for larger ones. How to Test For Toxic MoldMold smells, and if you have it in your home, your nose is one of the most inexpensive devises you can use to detect it. One way to make sure your gutter doesn't fall off the house is to install fascia hanger brackets. If water is dripping behind your gutter, it's probably because it was installed without any flashing over the back of the gutter. Gutter apron is a bent piece of flashing that tucks up under the shingles and over the gutter. Adding a rope does restrict water flow, so this may not be the best option if your gutter is prone to overflowing or if your downspout is easily clogged with twigs and leaves.
If your gutters are a custom color, a home center can special-order your color but not the slip joint to match. When you buy your new gutter section, make sure you order either an inside or outside box miter at the same time. Every connection on a metal gutter needs to be sealed: end caps, splices, drop outlets and miters. If you have trouble keeping small leaves and other debris from clogging your gutters, consider installing solid gutter guards.


Screened gutter guards, which are much less expensive and available at home centers, don't work as well.
Gutter leaks usually start at rusty spots or seams that have opened up because of expansion and contraction. Installation is simple: Just hook the bracket under the front lip of the gutter, and then screw the other side of the bracket to the fascia. Most home centers sell white and brown sections of gutters as well as slip joints to tie them together. Fasten a diverter with a couple of sheet metal screws to the top of the outside edge of the gutter. Solid guards, which cover all of the gutter except for a narrow crack to let the water through, do work well. Since the guards fit over the gutter rather than inside, they'll cover most standard-size gutters. If your gutter is still basically sound, the easiest way to stop the leak is by covering the damaged area with roof and gutter repair tape (available at home centers and hardware stores). Tear the paper backing off the tape and lightly adhere one edge of the tape to the top of the gutter. The lip on the guards relies on surface tension to draw the water down into the gutter, while the solid covering deflects leaves and other debris that would otherwise drop in.


They're typically attached to the gutter with brackets, with the upper edge slid under the lower shingles. Screens also make gutter cleaning more difficult, because you have to move them aside to get at the debris. If the gutter is badly rusted or has been heavily coated with tar that you can't scrape out, spray on a special adhesive primer before applying the tape (Protecto-Tek is one brand, but you may need to special-order it).
Roll the tape down the wall of the gutter, pushing it firmly into curves and corners (Photo 3). If your gutters are steel, buy steel roll flashing, because galvanized steel corrodes aluminum. Make sure edges of patch are well covered.Besides patching obvious damage, inspect gutters for sags, loose sections, and loose hangers. If you can't get at a fascia bracket to renail it or if the gutter sags even though all its supports are solid, add supports.



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