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Along the Qinhuai River in Nanjing's old town stands the well-preserved love nest where one of China's great beauties and culinary queens demonstrated a universal truth: the way to a man's heart is through his stomach. The sun was setting but threads of luminous afterglow lingered on the Qinhuai River lined with Ming (1368-1644) and Qing (1644-1911) Dynasty buildings with whitewashed walls, red carved eaves and lattice windows.
Dong Xiaowan (1623-51), a concubine and extraordinary woman in Chinese history, developed an ingenious cuisine - often linked to poetry - to please her lover.
In Dong's world, food is not just food, but the food of love, which is presented like poetry. One of her most famous dishes was (and still is) "drunken clam in which the mollusk is eaten alive, drenched in baijiu, distilled white spirit.
Some are so old that the white turns gray and the red turns brown, but all are bathed in an amber glow.


Dong's story When she was eight years old, Dong Xiaowan was forced by poverty into prostitution in Shili Qinhuai, a 10-kilometer-long red-light district along the Qinghuai River.
It is then topped with dried sweet-scented osmanthus and cut into small cubes no longer than two centimeters. She soon became one of the "Qinghuai Eight Beauties," eight high-class prostitutes known for their appearance and artistic talents, such as painting and writing poetry.
The website presents the overall information on China in the following respects: universities, primary and secondary schools, interest schools, admission procedures, scholarships, study programs, tuitions and fees, study tours, cultural characteristics, educational policies, living in China, online Chinese learning, etc. These were skills most women were not encouraged to cultivate but a number of Chinese courtesans in history were known for their artistic and intellectual attainments. According to chef Li Yuhua, who has researched Dong's poem-style for decades, many chefs dare not try the recipe since they fear they may misunderstand her "poem." Dong was meticulous and selected ingredients with great care. In fact, she developed unique, fragrant and visually elegant dishes; she made all delicacies herself. She is famous for Dong candies and Dong meat, which are popular in Nanjing and Yangzhou, but difficult to find in Shanghai. They fell in love and frequently wrote love poems to each other, expressing life-long devotion.
Although many Dong's delicacies have been lost, some classical dishes are popular and still served in Nanjing, notably Dong candy and Dong meat.
A picture of Dong's remarkable culinary world emerges from visits to restaurants and snack stalls and study of Dong's writings that include her recipes. Dong left her brothel and became Mao's concubine, living along the river in their love nest with a garden.
Dating back 350 years, Dong candy is Dong's signature dessert concocted for the man she loved. To make the meat crisp outside, soft and flaky inside, Dong slowly poached the pork for several hours until the meat becomes flaky enough, then quickly fried it in the hot oil.


It is made with wheat flour, peeled white or black sesame seeds, white sugar and malted sugar, mixed together and fried. Dong believed that the way to a man's heart was through his stomach, and so she spent a lot of time in the kitchen, inventing various, very sensual delicacies to tempt Mao's palate.
Dong herself used a small silver pan and silver spatula for frying, saying the fine metal increased the sweet's exquisite taste. At one Nanjing restaurant, the Dong meat was a bit disappointing because the dish tasted too light; it was lacking richness and the fatty aroma. While she herself was said to prefer unsalted food that was not too fatty or sweet, her lover preferred sweet foods with strong fragrance. Thus, Dong created ganlu, a kind of sweet liquid made of flower petals and yitang, a kind of malted sugar made from fermented wheat and corn. Often, Dong chose different kinds of flowers for her liquid infusions, based on the seasons: plum for spring, rose for summer, osmanthus and chrysanthemum for autumn and winter. When the silken sweetness slides over the tongue, the aroma of flowers greets the nose and fills the lungs, making the experience very special. According to some Nanjing locals, Mao often paired his wife's ganlu with rice wine as an important prelude to his daily scholarly pursuits. That's why her cooking considered not only flavor and texture, but also the visual arrangement of the dish to make it elegant and aesthetically pleasing. Properly interpreted by taste, fragrance and presentation, many dishes are said to represent a poem created by herself, hidden in her heart.



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