Shrubs minnesota,lawn maintenance homestead fl,punch home landscape design software,landscaping ideas for backyard hill - PDF 2016

14.09.2014
Successful use of trees and shrubs in landscapes is dependent on selecting a plant that will fulfill a desired landscape function. The decision to add a plant to a garden or landscape usually starts with the recognition that there is a space waiting to be filled and that a tree or shrub planted in this space will perform a specific job or function in the landscape. Once the function or job of a new plant is identified, the second step is to select a or tree shrub that can both fill this function and has growth requirements that match the growing conditions at the planting site. A tree or shrub should be planted into a space which allows it to reach its mature size without being crowded against structures, pathways, or other plants.
Growth rate, which is a plant's increase in height during one growing season, is also a consideration as trees and shrubs are placed in landscapes.
Shrubs and trees have specific preferences for light and may fail to thrive when these conditions are not provided. Light requirements of trees and shrubs are found on labels attached to plants for sale in garden centers, in garden catalogs, in reference books on woody plants, and on trusted websites. Armed with information on soil preferences of plant species and soil test results, gardeners and landscapers are well equipped to select trees and shrubs that will have long and healthy lives in the landscape. Shrubs and trees used in Minnesota landscapes must be able to survive Minnesota's low winter temperatures and to grow and thrive in the subsequent growing season.
Another consideration in the selection of woody plants is the prevalence of disease and insect pests common to trees or shrub species grown in Minnesota. Many gardeners are interested in landscaping with plants native to the United States or to Minnesota. Band Saw – Used most often for cutting branches from trees, and not at all useful in tight spots, but it has much larger teeth and cuts quicker than a pruning saw in those situations where you want to cut a thick trunk of a large shrub, and have the room to get at it with a band saw.
Electric hedge shears work great for shearing, and are worth the investment after you acquire more than three or four shrubs that you choose to keep sheared.
In fact, I sometimes prefer pruning deciduous shrubs just as they break dormancy, because you can see which nodes along the trunks and branches are active, helping you decide where to make your cut.
The reason pruning most deciduous and evergreen shrubs in winter is best, is that the shrub wakes up and doesn’t know it was pruned. The reason you do not prune in summer is that the shrub is vitally alive and in growth mode. Planted six years ago, this homeowner felt that some of the shrubs in her landscape had grown too large, and I agree.
Most of us, however, discover that in as little as five years, shrubs, deciduous in particular, lose their charm. Or perhaps you planted evergreen shrubs, and your goal is to keep your yews, pyramidal arborvitaes or upright junipers tight and lush. Pruning six inches or a foot off a deciduous shrub because that’s the height you think is best will result in new growth just below the pruning cuts, that, with many shrubs, will result in new branches twelve inches or more long the first season after pruning.
Controlling shrub width is accomplished either by pruning outside stems at the base, or pruning errant branches part way up, or both. This shrub willow was pruned three years earlier by the homeowner, who didn’t cut down far enough. If the shrub has been whistling and trying to look nonchalant for the past several years while secretly expanding its width by growing a new shrub from low-growing branch tips in contact with the ground, you need to recognize them.
New growth from underground stolons that are popping up small new shrubs around the base of the original plant are handled the same way.


These shrubs lose vitality over the years and start looking bad because the old growth is in the way. Last but not least, a few words on a subtle form of pruning called shearing, performed on both deciduous and evergreen shrubs.
But the one scenario in which it pays to prune when the shrub is growing is when you desire a thick, lush look to evergreen shrubs. Remember, you don’t have to wait until a shrub is getting out of hand to start pruning. This hardy shrub rose forms a carefree carpet of disease resistant foliage that bears multitudes of soft pink flowers that appear and reappear throughout the growing season. A valuable landscape shrub rose known for its hardiness, disease resistance and recurrent pink blooms. A compact, mounding, ever-blooming, low-maintenance shrub rose that typically grows to 3-4' tall and as wide and noted for its semi-double yellow flowers, glossy medium green foliage and excellent resistance to black spot. Be sure to visit our plant library to view information and photos regarding the trees and shrubs we sell.
But the key is, a hedge shears is used on these shrubs only if they are being maintained as a sheared plant or hedge. When you prune a shrub that is actively growing, it will immediately fire out new growth to replace what it has lost, and this new growth, by the end of the season, will often exceed what you pruned away. Plant a different shrub that doesn’t rule your life, while looking like hell for eleven months a year. Usually you can rip these smaller shrubs out of the ground in spring after they show leaves, and cut off the offending branch from the mother shrub at its base. Sometimes you need to dig up these little jailbird shrubs with a spading fork, if you failed to note them for a few years. These include many varieties of spiraea, andromeda, or any shrub with very fine branches that you want to keep lush with foliage all around. The first season after planting, I will examine shrubs and sometimes snip a little here and there, mainly small, dead branches. It is especially noted for its huge display of blooms that flower during the summer, after most other shrubs have finished their bloom period.
This low maintenance shrub boasts thick, apple green foliage that is naturally resistant to disease. Pruning saws are used primarily for thinning deciduous shrubs at the base, or as close to the ground as you can get. They are for giving shrubs very slight haircuts, and are worthless if your intent is to alter the size or shape of a shrub to any great degree. If you prune a shrub in winter or early, early spring that blooms on old wood, you will be pruning off branches holding the dormant flower buds. In zones 3-6, there aren’t any insects around in spring that are going to focus in on a freshly pruned shrub.
Some people will look at the shrubs in their yard and think they look just fine, no matter what course the shrubs have taken during their twenty- or forty-year lifespan.
Many will sucker slowly, essentially growing new shrubs at their side, even though the trait isn’t mentioned on the plant tag. You are far better off properly pruning the shrub much farther back (sometimes called a hard pruning) so it will be at the size you want in two, three, or even five years.


The PeeGee hydrangea is one of the largest growing shrub hydrangeas, reaching a height of twenty-five feet or more if not pruned. This flowering shrub requires little maintenance and offers continuous color throughout the seasons. This shapely shrub with dependable repeat bloom it is especially good for a late display, when the hips appear alongside fall asters and other perennials with assertive autumn colors. Many, many shrubs also will create a new shrub next to it by rooting the tip of a low branch that comes in contact with the ground, even if properly mulched. Removing only six to twelve inches, you are cutting very young growth, probably last years’, and those branches are the most vitally alive on the entire shrub, with dozens of young, dormant nodes throughout, which will fire off lush new growth when the shrub awakens. I do this because they are, after all, dead wood in my shrub, because they might be seen later in the season, and most important, because I can’t sleep at night knowing they exist.
I don’t want to circle a shrub sixteen times as I prune, so I will often flip the pruner upside down in my hand, if that allows me to get the blade exactly where I want to make the cut. This will keep evergreen shrubs, particularly those used to create a hedge, extremely full and lush, assuming they are receiving adequate sunlight for the variety of evergreen. And always clear out leaves and debris from the bases of shrubs each spring, it lets the base breath, and dry out after rainfalls. The fragrant four inch blooms are more neatly formed than most shrub roses and produce a eye catching multi-color effect. It mixes well with other plants in the shrub border or it can be planted in groups for an impressive effect. You never reduce the height, to any great degree, of a dogwood, ninebark, viburnum, lilac or any other shrub, with a hedge shears. If the shrub is starting to show new growth, it has just broken dormancy, but pruning it before it gets much farther along will not result in any great difference in appearance or health from pruning it a month or two earlier.
One can always tell an improperly pruned shrub when one sees thick, lush growth at the top, and older, sluggish, more naked branches below. This means you are cutting into old wood, and by old I mean it might be a stem that was present when the shrub was planted.
You can proceed this way all the way around the shrub, or, cut the perimeter stems shorter to create a more rounded shape to the shrub. So go back after the shrub has leafed out and take a close look at what your pruning has caused. For those readers in zones 7-9, flowering quince, viburnum, or any shrub you grow that gets big and develops old, gray, dead central stems would be the same thing. You also want to get in there with your hands and clean out old, dead needles that have dropped and are filling the base of evergreen shrubs. When the leaves begin to fall, this hardy winter shrub offers another show of color with its brilliant red hips. Our selection of shrubs starts at a 1 gallon pot size and includes all sizes needed for to finish your project. I don’t own one because I prefer to have my fingers and palm ache for two days after a long stint of pruning, particularly when I choose to prune branches the size of a hot dog with my bypass pruner, because I forgot my lopper at a shrub ten feet away.



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