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Location: Texas Performance Pontoon Catamaran I am sure that I am missing the obvious, but why couldn't you use a set of aluminum pontoons to recreate a bigger metal version of one of these inflatable catamarans? The inflatable versions originated as surf rescue craft in South Africa, and have become popular racing sport boats.
Does this sound more sound, or am I going to have another "what was I thinking" epiphany when my hangover goes away?
Location: Austin TX Recycled Hulls I like your idea of using the G-Cat hulls. Location: Milwaukee, WI I am not sure an aluminum pontoon is heavier than an inflatable. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals.
Many advantages: sharp entry at slow or high speeds, load carrying ability aft where the weight is usually concentrated, easy access to hulls from bridgedeck and clever location of the outboard engines, which have a clear water flow while keeping the stern platforms free. Location: australia Are you still trying to get queen sized beds, dinettes, shower toilet and a few hundred litres of water onto these hulls? If not, option 1 although I would suggest a boat with foils may not have got the hull shapes right to start with.


If you want the beds etc then option 2, but like was said in your other thread, it will be high sided due to bridgedeck clearance.
Originally Posted by sabahcat Are you still trying to get queen sized beds, dinettes, shower toilet and a few hundred litres of water onto these hulls? The hulls are a cleverer design than appears at first sight: notice the main chine coming down the bow and turning down below the slightly convex bottom to prevent the lifting water flow under the hull from escaping sideways. The fastest I was ever able to sail my Antigua 37 catamaran under spinnaker alone on an Atlantic crossing to the Caribbean was 15 knots: above that, the bows started to bury and waves would reach the foot of the mast by the time I took down the spi.
Location: Thailand From our experience, hull shape is secondary issue (unless it is too bad or not match the desired speed). His top speed is over 26kts with a 24kt cruise with the d3's Volvo 190hp at just over 14 gph.
The length to beam of each of my hulls is about 16:1, and the bridge deck is about 3ft over the surface at the rear, sloping up towards the bow, so it can quarter some very high seas at full cruise without slapping, though the wind will blow a lot of spray on the upper aft deck at high speeds.
This also moves the engine weight and prop further forward, reducing potential aeration in rough seas. Most in this neck of the woods have given up on little cats that plane, by the way because of the hobby-horsing and general thrashing.


I know you don't like the speed limit of a displacement hull, but it's going to be by FAR your most efficient through-the-water (at least under varied speeds). And while repairing holes or tears in the tubes is fairly straight foward, build a set of tubes from scratch is beyond the ability of mere mortals. If I were to build a boat for myself, with the same qualifications you listed, I'd be tempted to go with fine, mostly-displacement hulls (if not fully displacement), but I'd still foil-assist it. I know this would complicate the system a bit, but with it you could (at least theoretically) provide the extra lift necessary to the bows to keep them from burying above hull speed. All sat comfortably on the upper aft 'sundeck' above the aft berths (and no one got sea sick).



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