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With the lid off we see there is still some un-composted kitchen waste on the surface of the bin. In the photo to the right I have removed all of the un-composted kitchen waste from the original bin and placed in the bottom of the new bin. In the photo at the left I have added a mixture of kitchen waste and moist decomposing leaves to the new bin.
In the photo to the right I have removed un-composted food waste that was buried in the worm castings near the surface and placed it in the new bin.
In the photo to the right I tore newspaper into strips and placed them on top of the food waste mix in the new bin. Recently I built a worm composting bin as a gift to introduce a friend to redworm vermicomposting. They are large and active worms (approximately 600 to a pound) that reproduce like crazy under the right conditions.
Purchase the Worm Farming Guide 112 Page Exclusive Manual - The Business & Biology Of Raising Earthworms - Includes Over 124 Individual Back Issues Of The Worm Farming Secrets Newsletter - More Than 1,200 Additional Pages Of Worm Composting Content As A Free Bonus! Click Here to Buy Now. Worm castings, known as VERMICAST, recycles nutrients as a valuable soil amendment as nature designed. Worms need to adjust to their new home and new foods, so do not over-feed them the first few weeks. We made a template slightly smaller than the original plastic tub lid, and carefully cut out nine lids from cardboard. To see what we’re up to now, check out our Weekly Family Journal, updated at least once a week since 1998! The Enviromentals are Hal Brindley and Leigh Ramsdell, delivering you great tips, ideas, and videos featuring how to live a little greener. In this one, they show you how to build your very own worm composting bin, outlining the steps in a fun-filled way! For an easy solution for any home, condo, and kitchen, you have to check out this innovative way to go a little greener. Keep yourself up to date, with what is going on in the Ecoki Community by subscribing to the Ecoki RSS Feed.



Last year I discussed bokashi composting, as well as setting up a "bio-digester" composter.
This environment also encourages earthworms, so the container can also serve as an outdoor worm composting bin. Don't know about the digging, but what a great idea for those of us who need to use every square inch of sun we've got. Shebear40 writes: My hat's off to you digging a hole that big in our Blackland Prairie clay. Maybe a sheet of thin roofingtin with a wooden frame for support would stand the test of time?
I stopped adding food waste about a week before the photo was taken so there are only a few paper towels left on the surface of the worm castings. The decomposing leaves are not required but I didn't have a lot of food waste handy and I wanted the new bin to have an environment rich in microbes to encourage the worms to move up from the old bin. While doing this I created a smooth surface on the worm castings, so when I place the new bin on top there will be good contact between the bottom of the new bin and the worm castings.
By the time this new bin is nearly full the worms will have finished off the food waste in the lower bin and most of the worms will have migrated from the lower bin into the top bin.
They range in size from 3 - 5 inches long (approximately 1,000 per pound) and get their nickname from their characteristics for "wiggling". Red wigglers have a tendancy to "stay put" and do well in home composting bins. They are an important worm for home composting of fiborous materials like leaves, cardboard, and paper. The average American household generates more than 500 pounds of organic waste annually, which equates to 250,000 tons of organic waste generated by residents of the Tampa metropolitan area each year. Processing organic waste with worms - called VERMICOMPOSTING - transforms garbage into a nutrient-rich, odorless, pathogen-free, organic soil amendment that dramatically enhances the health of indoor plants, gardens, trees, landscaping, lawns, and crops.
The bokashi method allows you to compost a wider variety of materials, but its mission isn't to produce finished compost.
You can place the bokashi material in the bio-digester and mix it with the same components you would with conventional composting (leaves, leaf mold, grass clippings, compost, soil, etc.). The wider, yet shallower area not only allows for more material, but is much easier to mix up and harvest the compost out of. 10-12 feet of 2" x 12" untreated lumber (length will be determined by how large you want your composter to be) 2.


You will want to choose a spot in your yard that gets at least partial shade, and that is convenient to get to. If there is an issue with roots (as I had), lay down sheets of cardboard to help contain them outside of the inside box area (Photo I). When the hole is completely dug out and leveled off, place your composter in the hole to check the depth (Photo J). Scared me first time i encountered larvae from black soldier flies that took over my worm bin. So I guess we should get busy building one of those for the Community Garden don't you think? I try to add moist paper in the form of paper towels, newsprint or shredded office paper along with the food waste. You can then harvest nearly pure worm castings from the lower bin and start the process all over again. The fermented material must then be buried in the ground or compost pile to finish the breaking-down process.
The holes in the metal bucket allow microbes, worms, and other helpful critters in to do their jobs. The balanced combination promotes faster growth of the microbe population and this is what the worms are really eating. Cut the 2" x 12" board plywood sides (two pairs of equal sizes) to fit the sheet dimensions (Photo A). Do Not Use Pineapple or Papaya in your bins! Keep several inches (6-8) of moist bedding over the food at all times.



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