Worm bin grass clippings compost,education digest 2014,the best damn sales book ever download - Videos Download

Since it was time to cut the lawn again today, I decided I wouldn’t waste any time getting my grass-clippings-as-worm-food trial started. Normally, when I use clippings on my beds, I simply layer them on top of the straw, where they add some protective value initially, and food value over time. Mark thinks they smell like pee (haha) and are not worth the trouble, while others think they will heat up too much.
Well, I have used a mix of grass clippings and sawdust on top of one of my worm bins and everything is okay. I have let most of my grass clipping go though a heat before putting them on my veggie raised beds for mulch. What of inorganic chemicals in compost materials, will it break down or transfer to the humus, then the plants. When people ask about using grass clippings (and green yard waste in general) in their vermicomposting systems, I tend to offer them fairly cautious advice.
The potential issue here is that rapid breakdown of low C:N wastes can lead to the release of ammonia gas, which is very toxic for worms. Add to this the fact that grass can have pesticide and inorganic fertilizer residues on it, both potentially hazardous to worms. My recommendation would be to simply mix your clippings with your bedding in a 1:1 ratio, soak everything (ideally in a location where excess moisture can drain away), then leave the mix to sit for a week or so. It is important to mention that this method is certainly not the ONLY way grass clippings can be successfully used as a worm food.
In the summer months, I try to reduce the heat energy from the decomposition process from my feedstock so my bins won’t heat up.
Mark, your way of composting grass clippings looks like a good way (would try it if I had a yard, and not a balcony ).
Unfortunately, it rained (poured) that night and to my dismay about one third of my wormis are missing. Although the worms were not on the ground and were covered, I found just a few on the outside which is how I confirmed the escape ( I am sure I lost alot). Hey, I’ve been reading the site for a while now, and I must say it has taught me almost everything I know about vermicomposting, and I’m a huge fan now, so kudos for that! Anyway, I found this absolutely easy to use C:N calculator for all us vermi-enthusiasts, I hope it helps you all!
When worms get shipped and then added to a completely new system, they are almost ALWAYS going to be at least a little restless – often they are very restless.
Anyway, really sorry to hear of your troubles Wendy – although glad you at least have some worms left. I moved a compost heap yesterday, and the worms were nearly all to be found in the stinkiest, wettest, nastiest clumps of rotting grass. Any suggestions to help minimize or get rid of the nasty little flies and pill bugs inside of bin. With regards to out door vermicomposting, were worms placed directly into a compost pile or did you biild a structure on the ground to seperate and restrict worms from escaping while adding the food source on top? Bagging clippings did not become commonplace until the 1950s when bagging attachments were designed for rotary motors. Contrary to popular belief, returning clippings to the lawn does not contribute to increased thatch formation. The major factors contributing to thatch development are vigorous grass varieties, excessive nitrogen fertilization, infrequent mowing, and low soil oxygen levels (such as found in compacted or water logged soils).
While leaving clippings on the lawn is recommended, certain instances make the practice inadvisable.
If the lawn is heavily infested with certain leaf diseases (such as leaf spot, rust or dollar spot), removing clippings may help reduce disease severity.
If the lawn must be mowed when wet or the grass has become too tall, clippings can mat together and smother the grass. If your mower is unsafe to operate without a bagging attachment, the bag must be left in place.
If clippings land in curb and gutter area, especially near storm drains, sweep up to avoid having them get into storm drains, be carried to nearby water resources and negatively impact water quality (Fig.
Using clippings as a garden mulch or composting them are two good alternative disposal methods (Fig. Wet grass clippings can mat down and reduce oxygen and moisture from getting down into the soil.
In general, do not use grass clippings as mulch if the lawn was recently treated with an herbicide for dandelions or other broadleaf weeds.
Composting involves mixing grass clippings and other plant materials with a small amount of soil containing microorganisms which decompose organic matter.

As with mulches, a thick layer of grass clippings in a compost pile will lead to bad odors from anaerobic decomposition. Our first inspirational breakthrough was when we decided to space the field corn and cowpea rows far enough apart to cut down the weeds between them with the lawnmower. Then when our pasture improvement project got delayed, I found myself fretting over all the unwanteds growing there.
The clippings make the coop smell fresh and clean, and the chickens love to scratch around in search of those seed heads and maybe even a few choice bugs to eat. I've used grass clippings in and around the goat sheds too, especially where the ground gets too muddy for hooves to be continaully walking through. As we learn to make do with what we've got, we find ourselves analyzing our needs in a different light.
Renee NefeAugust 30, 2012 at 12:22 AMwe have had our lawn mower forever (nearly 20 years) and it is still going strong. I always say no because 1) the compost bin heats up to 140 degrees and that is always to hot for the worms to survive. I have a compost tumbler in the backyard that I have been using for a while but have never liked it because it doesn’t aerate the compost that well. The compost in it is only halfway done and hasn’t heated over 80 degrees in the last 4 weeks. If you order Red Wigglers or European Night Crawlers by the pound you can add this living material as their start off bedding if you would like to.
I still use shredded paper and cardboard for my bedding and still produce scraps for the food. Jeremy’s question about using grass clippings definitely inspired me to give this grass-only diet a try. I have simply designated a short stretch of my vermicomposting trench windrow bed as grass-only. This is definitely NOT a material I consider to be an ideal worm food for the beginner vermicomposter.
This is why I wouldn’t likely ever use grass coming from unknown sources (ie the stuff collected by landscapers). Bulky materials like shredded cardboard and shredded newsprint would have the added benefit of greatly increasing air flow as well. In all honesty, my typical approach involves adding clippings in very thin layers to the top of my outdoor vermicomposting systems (such as my trenches). As some of my plants tend to be a bit prolific (for some reason my plants always try to invade new parts of my living room…).
The holes on the side were approximately three inches in circumference, five holes on each side. Aside from all the handling and bumping around, their new home is almost always a very different environment than they are used to. I put a pound of my feedstock in the freezer for 36 hours, when it thawed some of the larva were still alive.
Because lawns grow at different rates depending on environmental conditions and management practices, it is important to tailor mowing, fertilizing, and watering to meet plant needs, yet avoid excessive growth.
In nearly every instance, proper lawn care can greatly reduce or eliminate the need to collect clippings.
Thatch is a layer of undecomposed organic matter that builds up between the soil surface and the actively growing green vegetation (Fig.
Clippings are composed primarily of easily degradable compounds which break down rapidly and do not accumulate. When oxygen is limited, anaerobic decomposition of the clippings may take place, leading to the production of offensive odors. We've tended to approach homesteading with a conventional farming mindset; certain jobs require certain equipment, right?
If they all went to seed, it would perpetuate the very problem we were trying to get rid of.
It's a Husqvarna 7021 and it never skips a beat if the grass is too high or thick (which it often is). I give them a quick stir once a day and when it's time to clean out the coop, these are well mixed with manure and nicely precomposted.
There are some things though, that I have to get rid of, like deadly nightshade, which pops up frequently. Yes, we could certainly use some heavy equipment, but perhaps it isn't what we originally thought we needed.
Who knows – maybe I can even charge more for the worms raised in my grass fed bed (they certainly charge more for grass fed beef!

Today, I pulled back the straw from this zone and heaped up some fresh clippings from my mower bag. I punch holes on all four sides pressed the lid shut and left them oustside under a shaded area with an extra lid loosely placed on top.
This keeps them high enough so I’m not bent over to keep them and away from ants and other crawling things.
Not wanting to add bugs to my bin, I found out that these bugs won’t survive the MICROWAVE for 5 minutes!
Grass clippings an inch or less in length filter down to the soil surface and decompose relatively quickly.
Long clippings may contain wiry stem material that is slower to decompose, but are still not significant contributors to thatch buildup.
That was the first time it occurred to me to use the bagger attachment that came with our lawn mower. Being able to accomplish that plus collect the grass clippings helps me feel more productive, because I'm killing two birds with one stone so to speak. The 5 acres came in 2009, when my husband Dan and I bought a neglected 1920s built bungalow on 5 acres. I had the same temperatures, but when spread out & not piled up the heat should not build-up. Sometimes I add peat moss to speed it along and I will add pulverized egg shells for the heck of it.
They will certainly consume rotting food wastes (and other materials) but it can take them a little while to get used to it. Longer clippings have a tendency to remain on the lawn surface where they appear unsightly and can shade or smother grass beneath. University of Minnesota soil test recommendations call for less nitrogen fertilizer if clippings are returned to the lawn.
A thatch layer will develop if organic matter is produced faster than it is decomposed by microorganisms.
The goal is simpler, sustainable, more self-reliant living, and a return to agrarian values. My first bin didn’t have escapees, but I did have many, many up from the bin, clinging to the lid and the lip around the top. I often open up the tops of my bins on a sunny day and let the top most layer dry out as the flies don’t seem to be tunneling down very far. Also, the addition of organic matter in the form of clippings may help to improve the status of your soil if it is sandy, heavy clay, or low in organic matter. The reel mower would have been fine for our flat front yard, but we have other areas that are steep and grow thick.
But when my future pasture was loaded with growing weeds I didn't want to reseed, it occurred to me that I could actually bag and use those clippings. Still, that doesn't get the job done and doing everything by hand often takes too much time. If you need to line the veggie bins, you could use almost anything as long as you allow for drainage. This is an instance where experience and not having a lot of money have worked in our favor.
I imagine you could cut it long enough and fold it over the top to keep them in and bugs out. The funny thing is that when I dig down to check on them, there are more worms of all sizes in the soggy side than on the drier side so I guess they don’t mind being very wet. I am going to try the deep mulch theory on my chicken yard and bagged remains from mowing would be perfect! Today, the thought of worm beds just brought such a silly visual of little worms, with knitted hats (of course) under little down comforters, painted wood beds and mushroom glow lights..
I have used the deep litter method in my chicken coop for a couple of years and really like it.
I like though that there is less frequent cleaning out, no smell, and plenty of precomposted litter for sheet mulching the garden.Theresa, you and those knitted hats! As far as equipment, we'd like to figure out the most versatile, basic tools that we would use again and again.

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