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Collecting eggs from the nest boxes is one of the great joys of backyard chicken keeping and when the yield from the nest boxes isn't what we expect, it can be disappointing, and at times, cause for concern. Fluctuations in egg production can be caused by a myriad of physical, behavioral, environmental and emotional triggers, some requiring remedial action and others, no cause for alarm. Although lash eggs are not very common, they do happen, and they are an indicator that your chicken probably has an infection and you might want to take her to a vet. If you’re wondering causes lash eggs, then the first thing you should know is despite their name, lash eggs aren’t really eggs at all. A good lash egg definition starts with their cause: Lash eggs are the result of Salpingitis—an infection and inflammation of the oviduct, which causes a hen to slough off pus and other material accumulated in her body because of the infection. As of the time of this post, the reasons why Salpingitis occurs in chickens are not known (the exact parthenogenesis), although identified risk factors might be the fact that industrial farms keep chickens so close together. According to the Merck Veterinary Manual, Salpingitis and the resulting lash eggs can be caused by different bacteria, including Mycoplasma gallisepticum, E. The Merck Veterinary Manual does not recommend a specific treatment, although studies suggest antibiotics might work to cure salpingitis. Because several different bacteria can cause salpingitis, the antibiotic to prescribe depends on the cause. You should consult a qualified poultry vet. Lash eggs are generally shaped something like eggs, and the reason for that is because they travel through the oviduct. For a backyard chicken keeper, however, this advice might not be necessary, and you might not necessarily want to dispose of a hen that lays lash eggs. If your chickens are acting normal and seemingly otherwise healthy, then culling her is not your only option.
For a hen that lays lash eggs, treatment can be sought from a qualified poultry vet, who might suggest putting her on antibiotics to see if they clear up the infection.
Unfortunately, there’s not much you can do to prevent your hens from laying lash eggs. I’m not a vet, so I recommend consulting one for a definitive answer, but since salpingitis is an inflammation of the oviduct caused by an infection from E.
Think of it like this—if a human woman had salpingitis (inflammation of her Fallopian tubes), would you be worried?
Since chickens naturally carry a bacteria load in their bodies, they’re already at risk for the infection. Whether you’re a seasoned homesteader, an urban farmer, or an apartment-dweller, I’m here to answer your questions, share my life with you, and learn from your experiences.
I haven’t seen any of those, but a friend of mine had a hen lay an egg that was black inside. Usually eggs that are black inside have some sort of bacterial growth in them that rotted the yolk and albumen. Hi Curt, it really takes a vet to determine whether the infection a particular hen has is treatable or not. In December 2015, Violet displayed initial symptoms of lethargy, fluffing of feathers, disinterest in food – very similar to an eggbound chicken.
Not recognising the strange mass in the laying box, but knowing precisely which hen had produced it, I googled extensively and the results were discouraging. As Violet is a much-loved pet, I took her to our vet, and he recommended worming and treating with Doxycycline Hydrochloride for 10 days, which I did.
I am happy to relate that Violet has been steadily improving in health and gaining weight and the diarrhoea has finally cleared. Double yolk eggs are actually fairly rare, about 1 in 1,000 for commercial eggs where consistency is required. Rarer still are multiple yolk eggs, triples or even quadruples and apparently there has even been a nine yolk egg! When an egg starts its journey inside the hen, the first thing formed is the ovum in the hen's ovary. Once it reaches full size, the yolk sac breaks away (ovulation) and begins a journey down the oviduct where the egg white (albumen) and the shell form around it. Normally, the next ovulation is triggered by the hen laying the egg but occasionally things go wrong and two yolks are released at the same time to travel down the oviduct together, being surrounded by one shell and giving us the double yolker.

If the ovums are fertile the double yolked egg will contain two viable chick embryos but there will not be enough space for them to develop to hatching. As they become more mature hens and their system settles down to correct production then the double yolks become less frequent to non-existent. So if you get some double yolk eggs from your hens, make the most of your good fortune because it won't last. If a female loaded with eggs does not spawn, her eggs are often absorbed back into her body. If you have females, it's easy to tell if they have eggs - large bulging area, lower abdomin around the vent.
Dystocia or egg binding is something you will experience from time to time with mature female koi.
This condition will be evident in mid summer although things started to go wrong as early as spring. Although spawning can in certain circumstances take place in late summer if temperatures are not high enough in late spring.
The temperature not only needs to be 20o c or just over but this temperature needs to be maintained for a number of days for natural egg maturation to take place. Several suitably large males will chase one female that is ready to spawn and the chase is long and hard. Speaking only from our personal experiences, here's a little info that may help down the road.
Our observations have led me to some conclusions that seem to be backed up by other peoples experiences as well. That is what they are programmed to do under normal circumstances and the fact that their ovum is filled with eggs already won't prevent it from happening anyway.
If I had an egg laden female that did not spawn, either naturally or after using water temperature triggers to promote a hormonal response, I would observe her carefully at feeding time through the heat of summer. To determine the reason for a decline in egg production, a complete flock history and physical assessment of all birds should be performed, asking questions such as: have any new chickens been added to the flock, were new birds properly quarantined, have there been any changes in feed, housing arrangements, weather, lighting, droppings, have there been any signs of predators or sickness such as eye discharge, sneezing, lethargy, etc. Regular egg-laying requires 14 to 16 hours of light and decreased daylight hours in autumn and winter can cause egg production to decline or stop completely. Broodies should be broken properly or permitted to hatch eggs in a location away from the nest boxes to ensure a prompt return to egg-laying and to preserve their health. Seek veterinary help for a hen that has a swollen, water-balloon-like abdomen or signs of egg-looking junk are found. The reasoning behind this idea is that if she lays a lash egg once, she will do it again, making her an unproductive member of your flock.
She might never do it again, or she might lay regular eggs or a while then lay another lash egg. A lash egg is an accumulation of pus for the most part, and you definitely don’t want to be eating it. If they get a laceration or some small tear in their oviduct (or some other way for the bacteria to enter), it’s possible salpingitis might develop.
Lash eggs are different, it’s a build up of pus and other stuff, and not really an egg at all.
In fact, that’s what I thought I was dealing with and treated accordingly with warm baths and calcium. Most sites indicated that salpingitis was not a treatable condition and that death would follow quite quickly. She has always been free-range, and fed an organic grain mix, with shell grit in a separate bowl, plus loads of organic fruit and veg from our garden and treats of cheese, yoghurt and kids’ leftovers (including beef and fish but never chicken!). It’s hard to know whether the salpingitis was triggered by the initial respiratory infection or the diarrhoea, but it seems to respond to the Doxycycline. Depending on whether you're a yolk person or a white person it's either a bonus or a fault.
If you really like double yolked eggs then the highly productive breeds are more likely to reward you when young.
In fact any bird can lay double yolkers but it is relatively more common in birds bred to lay rather than wild birds where genetic selection works against it.

If a female is mature enough to spawn, this will usually take place as the length of daylight hours gets longer and temperature hits a trigger point about (20oc). It is not like salmon and trout where the eggs lie free inside the female and as she lays her eggs and the male just swims over the top and deposits his milt.
The end result is the male or several males cornering the female in a position where she cannot escape, and will more or less ram her in the side to expel the eggs from the female. Supplemental light can be added to the coop to encourage egg-laying with no detrimental effects to the hen despite commonly parroted myths to the contrary.
She’s only laid about 10 edible eggs in her whole life, and three of those lash eggs. I suspect the problem started when a new addition to our flock introduced a respiratory infection back in early 2014. However, no egg was ever produced, Violet lost weight, and her comb turned pale and droopy. We’re not worried about the loss of egg production, but I figure that the fact she is still laying lash eggs means there is still infection present.
Yes, either could cause death, but you would really have to overfeed and then others would also be in trouble, not just one. The carp?s egg?s remains in the ovaries and have to be almost bludgeoned out of the female by strong contact from the male. A cookie tin water heater will keep water from freezing in traditional waterers inexpensively and effectively. Both natural antibiotics, cooked cloves of garlic with potato skins and would put cinnamon into oats.
Violet became very ill and, although she recovered with the help of antibiotics, she was left with persistent diarrhoea that didn’t respond to treatment. Her comb still droops to one side, but it’s regained its normal rosy colour, and in every other respect she looks terrific.
But it’s heartening to read here that other people’s hens have made a full recovery!
Fill the water up so that the backs of the koi are covered and introduce the female first in the forenoon,try and match the pond temp in water exchange. Then if she doesn't absorb the eggs, you'll need to expel them - not for most amatures - or get a fish vet to help. This process is continual so, even though the eggs are not mature enough to be spawned, more will be added as the season continues. Despite the diarrhoea, she seemed otherwise happy and healthy and was laying nearly every day for the following two years.
None of our other six hens have been affected by the condition, so I would certainly not rush into culling the flock. Since the couple of lash eggs, she has laid eggs with essentially no shell but otherwise they are shaped like an egg etc. In the case of Salpingitis, the bacteria gets out of control (to put it simply) causing the infection and inflammation.
She does occasionally lay a normal egg other than it will be white in color and not the normal brown egg. She’s healthy in every other way, and longer lived than her flock mate boss who we got at the same time, but she succumbed to a respiratory infection. It’s possible for one hen to infect another with the bacteria (transmission through manure for example), but the actual Salpingitis is caused by some trigger factor (like a microscopic laceration in the oviduct as a broad example) that allows the bacteria to get out of control. Be prepared to inspect the males for damage after spawning and if minor to none place back in the pond.
Treat if needed but allow several days of peace and quiet and to allow her scent to disapate so that when placed back into the pond she is not chased again.

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