Vermicomposting edmonton 311,good books to read for 9-12 year olds,emergency preparedness car kit list jobs - Reviews

In Their Own Words: Interviews With Vermiculture Experts edited by Peter Bogdanov   Do you wonder why there is so much talk about earthworms?
I situated my first trench directly in front of my tomato bed, thinking that it might help them grow somewhat better.
My concern revolved around the fact that I was adding lots of stinky, anaerobic waste (from other food waste composting attempts gone wrong) and materials that were not very well stabilized (decomposed) in general. One thing that likely helped my tomatoes right off the bat was the fact that I added a scoop of Worm Power worm castings into each hole.
The first thing I (obviously) had to do was dig the actual trench – certainly the most labour-intensive and tedious part of the job. It may look like straw, but this is actually partially decomposed material from my backyard composters.
Next, I added a lot of chopped up food waste – apple peels and cores, carrot peels, turnip peels, lettuce, broccoli stalks, egg shells etc.
Bentley, thank you for posting this detailed setting up of your trench method of vermicomposting. I have one question though….you have this trench in a sunny location, good for the tomato plants, but not bad for the worms???
I have a much wider trench in a raised bed and I’ve been somewhat cautious with it thus far because it holds a lot of material and has been quite hot. Clark – the effect of summer sun and heat on a system like this will certainly depend on your location, and the prevailing weather conditions for a given year. We had record setting rains in June, is that just the risk I take if I decide to do trench composting?
Question #3 If I can’t get to the compost trench for about 2-3 months during the winter to feed them (due to snow), is that a problem?
I live in a pretty cold region myself, but am pretty confident that I won’t completely kill off my worms this winter. In the summer, just make sure to keep the trench from drying out, especially if you are not adding wet food waste regularly. I have plenty of compost already started, but I added dirt to it just 2 weeks ago, not knowing that that is a no-no. If you are receiving worms through the mail (sounds like you are), it is not a bad idea to get them into their system as fast as possible, or bare minimum at least get them into a shallow tub with some moist shredded newspaper to at least let them spread out a bit and get more oxygen. I would think that 12-14″ would be fine, BUT you will really need to heap on the bedding up above the soil surface.
I generally stay away from anything glossy – there can be heavy metals etc in the inks used for these. I’ve had kitchen waste, cardboard and shredded newspaper in the trench since this past Monday. I did something similar with my long trench (feeding on one half, lengthwise and then the other). Red Wigglers are excellent for processing pretty well any type of organic waste – if any worm can do it, Red Worms can.
Every couple of days I take a pitch fork and tenderly poke it into the trench to lift the material up to see if I see any worms. You are absolutely right about presenting some of my key projects etc in a more accessible manner – perhaps I can start to put together PDFs with summaries of each that people can download. Cardboard certainly doesn’t need to be shredded into tiny bits in order to work well in a system like this. Back to the wood chips idea – I should mention that not ALL wood chips are created equal.
I’ve tried working with spent grains from a brewery and, while it is supposed to be an ideal vermicomposting food according to Dr. Heat action can occur well before you get a few feet high, but if the weather is still cool this shouldn’t be so much of a concern.
Worms actually seem quite tolerant of anaerobic conditions – I think it is more the metabolites that can be produced via anaerobic processes that cause the issues. I laid soil augmentation stuff like peat and composted manure on the pile of dirt as I dug the hole, and then will add some more when I fill it back in. For the wormies, I added some almost composted materials from my old not-so-compost heap, alternated with layers of cardboard and shredded newspaper.
Soon I will order up some worms and make some worm boxes, put some of the wrigglers in the boxes and some in the vermiculture trench bed, and see what happens.
For 30 years and more, we have been covering our septic line with plastic bags of fall leaves. TOM – Ashes can be an asset to a compost heap or garden in general since they are a good source of potassium, but I would be careful with adding them to a vermicomposting system, since potassium hydroxide (very caustic) can be created when water is added. Anne, I would try just starting out with a large trash can that you drill holes in as your compost bin.
If you have eaten the red skined peanuts,when you finished you would have a little flakes from the roasted nuts left in the bag. I have access to as much free (uncomposted) horse manure as I want and am thinking about putting some in a vermicomposting trench. I’d love to see your photos, and if you ever wanted to share what you are doing in the form of a guest blog post, please let me know. A guess blog post is simply you writing about your trench and me posting the article on the blog. Thanks for the kudos – I just keep on keepin on and hope that people find value in my work. This is the most common type of worm bin.  Levels are stacked and have screened bottoms which allow the passage of worms between levels.



There are no layers or tiers in this system, but worms move upward as food is expended, thus allowing the bottom section to mature and be harvested.
Outdoor worm pits range from boxes buried in the ground to pits dug in shaded areas.  I have personally had great success with the latter, as native composting worms such as P.
Commercial systems are beyond the scope of this guide but they include outdoor windrow systems and large flow through reactors. As I mentioned in the post about my restaurant vermicomposting project, the trench idea started as somewhat desperate attempt to deal with the large quantities of food waste I’ve been receiving each week. Unlike last year, I decided not to add slow-release fertilizer sticks so that I could see the full potential of the natural method (or all of the negative repercussions if it didn’t work). It is known that various phytotoxic compounds can be produced via anaerobic processes, so I worried that I would end up stunting the growth.
As I’ve discovered this year, worm castings are a fantastic material for helping any plant get started, whether it be a seedling or a transplant. As you may recall, I had zero luck when I initially tried using my backyard composter (only one was active at the time) to compost food waste, but once I had a lot of straw available I was able to start using the composters again – with much greater success, I might add.
This time it was shredded egg flats (from the restaurant) – in my opinion, the best kind of cardboard to use for vermicomposting. It was added in fairly shallow layers, but given the length of the trench, it was actually quite a lot of material.
This helps to keep moisture and bad odour in, and hot sunlight and worm predators (like Robins) out. As mentioned, I will also be putting together a video all about making a vermicomposting trench. This is a necessity, given the fact that I’m receiving so much waste from the restaurant.
Extra precautions would include adding food materials and then LOTS of bedding over top before the snow starts to fly – materials like straw, fall leaves etc.
I find that lots of rain slows things down, but unless your garden turns into a lake, I don’t think you need to worry too much (never hurts to keep a small indoor worm bin for insurance though). I didn’t wait for one side to be processed before adding to the other, but I DID try to wait until one or the other sides were fairly well processed before adding any more. I definitely DO plan to put together a video about my trench systems, so hopefully that will be a good start. Ten yards is a LOT of manure – you should easily be able to get some trenches up and running.
Not really sure how much of a risk this is, but I wouldn’t personally take a chance with it. My recommendation however is to skip the soil and sawdust – neither of these are good materials for a vermicomposting system. I don’t have moles around here (thank goodness), but there are definitely small rodents that live in my yard.
I will certainly be writing a lot more about mine again this year once i get a bit more active in the garden. If you have your own website already I’d certainly be more than happy to link over to it from the article as well.
One lucky winner will receive:1 Worm Factory 360 with worms1 Worm Factory Refill Kit1 Stainless Steel Compost KeeperVermicomposting is a great way to turn kitchen scraps and yard waste into nutrient rich fertilizer. Vermicompost and castings are harvested directly from the bottom via means of bars, screens, and various mechanisms (depending on design).
One thing I was somewhat concerned about was the fact that I didn’t set up the trench well before the planting of the tomatoes – in fact, the trench ended up going in a week after the tomatoes were planted! The ideal situation would involve setting up your trench months before you plant anything, so that by the time they go in, there is a rich supply of composted materials to start tapping for nutrients.
I chose not to go down quite as far with this trench as I did with the one in front of the tomato bed. I basically just harvested a LOT of partially mature vermicompost (containing lots and lots of worms) from my outdoor worm bin and added it as a layer over some moistened coconut coir. Are you continuously adding more stuff to this trench or are you going to just let the worms break everything down before redoing the whole thing? Another advantage of this approach is that it will indeed help to protect your worms over the winter.
I am going to write a follow up post, providing some additional details that I forgot to write about.
Like winter, it will really help to have a thick layer of mulch over top for (cooling) insulation and to slow down the drying process. You definitely want something that will provide habitat (and long-term food) for the worms and help to balance the C:N ratio in the trench. It may take a bit before the manure is ready for the worms (depends how much urine is mixed in with the manure), but shouldn’t be too long with horse manure. You can sure use up a lot of material…there will be a slight delay while I replenish my scraps bucket. Bait dealer usually sell by the worm, and if you translated their per worm price into a 1 lb equivalent, you’d probably be paying $50-$100 for a pound of worms!
I have got about 6000.lbs of this chaff in the last 6monthThe chaff is really hot in the coffee roaster so to keep it fromm burnnig it is flooded with water after it leaves the coffee bean.
Hardcore organic gardeners do not use treated wood, but I do not think it will hurt the worms. I constructed the 2 beds as part of a class presentation, so i’ve got photos of each stage of them. The Worm Factory 360 is the ultimate worm bin for vermicomposting and tucks easily into a corner of your back porch or even the kitchen!


I planted this bed (which contains zucchinis and several different legumes) way later than I should have, and again dug the trench even later still.
If I installed 5 trenches, I can pretty well guarantee that they would all be different – BUT, they would all be constructed with the principles of vermicomposting in mind. My zucchini plants are HUGE and now overhang the trench, so that section is likely somewhat cooler than the other (sunny) areas. While you won’t likely be able to keep it actively composting (unless you add lots and lots of waste to maintain warmth), you should at least be able to keep most of your worm population from freezing (if you add a nice thick layer of mulch over top) during the winter. I think I’m going to set up an outdoor system specifically for the doodoo, like a trench system, and hope that the worms can go deep enough into the ground to survive our winter.
If you are doing this slowly over time and letting each side sit for awhile then yeah you could probably use the compost elsewhere, but I suspect there will still be plenty of worms in it. Fall leaves (although not really absorbent initially) are an excellent material when you can get them.
Currently a 3 foot by 8 foot by 18-inch deep hole, only the front 12 inches of the hole is an extra 8 or 10 inches deeper. So I get wet Chaff that is at least half water, but it has began to break down at this time.
In your case (where you know there are moles in the area), setting up some sort of protective barrier would be very important since the trench would basically represent and all-you-can-eat buffet for moles.
Read more about how the Worm Factory 360 works here.Store your kitchen scraps in the handy stainless steel compost keeper and feed them to your composting worms each week. The interesting thing is that they do in fact seem to send roots into the material (composted or not) quite quickly. Yet again, the composting worms have come to my rescue – I added quite a bit of worm compost (harvested from my outdoor worm bin) into each hole, and more was added as a top dressing as well.
If you want to get your system working for you very quickly, the best bet is to add a lot of worms at once – you may however want to get yourself a compost thermometer before doing so.
I am finding lots of worms active up near the surface in my tomato trench, so it doesn’t seem to be creating any issues. Worse case scenario (a REALLY cold winter), you’ll be left with cocoons that will hatch in the spring and give you a new worm population (assuming you have Eisenia fetida worms). If not, I can just go to my neighborhood tackle shop and purchase a new batch in the spring!
The worms start composting the scraps immediately and in a few short months you will have enough worm castings to harvest and fertilize your garden. Since these trenches can hold a lot of material, they can also heat up quite a bit – the last thing you want to kill your worms or cause them to leave the area. You’ll no longer have to buy bags of compost at the store or worry about your standard compost bin freezing outside in the winter. Vermicomposting is the easiest way to make compost at home and this giveaway is the perfect way to get started!This giveaway is open to residents of the United States. When the giveaway ends, the randomly chosen winner will be contacted by email and have 24 hours to respond. Becky was used to seeing piles of leftover food accumulate on the counter from the day’s meals. It was the frequent trips to the basement with the leftovers that finally raised her suspicions.No dear, these are not going in the compost pile.
Now, it’s no big deal, and my girls love to visit them often.The practice of harvesting worm castings (waste) for use in the garden is referred to as vermicomposting. They are high in nutrients, often containing 5-11 times more primary nutrients than ordinary garden soil. The castings are purely organic and look like rich dark soil.Worm castings are becoming more widely available commercially. My answer would be that if you’re really into the hands-on aspect of gardening, this about tops the list.
There are a number of commercially available worm habitats on the market, but for just a few dollars, you can easily build your own.
Add enough so that it provides plenty of bedding area but no more than about 12 inches deep. One pound will be plenty for a ten-gallon container.Feed the worms about two times each week. Food scraps as well as paper products and cardboard work well but avoid the use of meat or dairy products.
When the container lid is removed, the worms will move from the surface where they are feeding and retreat to the darkness below.
You can scrape off the castings from the top layer without disturbing the worms.Another method is to alternate from side to side within the bin as you feed and harvest.
The side that you plan on using to remove the castings should not be the side where they are actively feeding. This will draw all the worms to the active feeding side, leaving the pure castings side for retrieval.When you’re ready to add the castings to your garden, they should be mixed into the soil at an optimal rate of up to 15%. Off camera, Joe dedicates his time to promoting sustainability through his popular books, Compost Confidential blog, podcast series, and nationally syndicated newspaper columns. Email Address First Name Comments Pat saysNovember 6, 2013 at 4:08 PM Thanks for writing about vermicomposting !



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