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It is equipped with five sensory tools that measure mechanical pressure, light, sound, posture, and temperature.1 Each tool helps Paro understand something about its environment. It hugs its owners, responds to verbal cues, learns preferred behaviors and can imitate a baby harp seal.1 All of this technology is amazing, but the most impressive thing about Paro is its rehabilitative services. If you do not read Chapter 2 thoroughly before you read this chapter, you probably will not be able to properly diagnose your machine!!!!In 1995, GE began manufacturing a new washing machine. It’s not a stuffed animal, it’s a $6,000 medical device: Paro the robo-seal aims to comfort elderly, but is it ethical? They are commonly referred to as the "front-access" or "easy-access" machines, or simply the "new-style" GE washer, versus the "old-style" machine. The basket is attached directly to the transmission, which itself spins during the spin cycle.
Think there any similarities between that anthropomorphic robot and those seen in Smith’s 2004 blockbuster hit? When the motor stops or reverses, a brake attached to the bottom of the transmission engages, keeping the transmission from turning during agitation.
Flexible fins on the agitator circulate water in the tub and through the self-cleaning lint filter in the basket hub. One of the features is that the drive motor does not drive the pump.
The drain pump in these machines is a separate unit with its' own motor. The suspension in these machines is reported to be VERY good. In one videotaped demo I saw, they put eight pounds of phone books in the machine during the spin cycle and the thing barely vibrated. In fact, if the washer is dancing around during the spin cycle, whoever installed the machine probably forgot to remove the suspension rod, inserted to keep the tub from moving during shipping.
The washer will not agitate, drain or spin with the lid open. 2) There is a pre-pump function built into the water level switch. The water level must be quite low before the water level switch will allow the basket to start spinning. Most of the parts on these machines are designed to be thrown away. The triangle bracket that holds it on is a separate item and is very difficult to get off the hose. Replace the pump. Another common complaint is that water mysteriously leaks during the agitate cycle.

What is happening is that the lower transmission ball bearings are worn so the brake is not engaging fully. The basket then spins during the agitate cycle and and slings water over the edge of the tub. If it turns easily by hand but won't drain the tub, replace the whole pump and motor assembly. Besides the fact that bleach is very hard on plastic and rubber parts, such as the hose itself, the hose chafes on one of the suspension rods until a hole develops. The problem here is that the clutch pulley is pressed together and the top half of it comes off.
Obviously the machine does not agitate or spin. Another problem experienced, though it doesn't appear to be a widespread problem yet, is that there have been some transmission failures. The symptom is that you attempt to remove the agitator, and the whole agitator shaft comes out with it. Replace the whole transmission and brake assembly as described in section 6-5.6-3 CONSOLETo access the timer, temperature or water level switches, fill valve, or to remove the cabinet top, you must remove the console. You can then pull the terminal blocks off the timer and any other switches in the console and set it aside.The fill valve is accessible on the left. They have a little tab in the middle that you can grab with a pair of needlenose pliers to remove and clean or replace them. Unlike switchblocks of the past, the selector switches and water level switch are not held in place by screws. To remove it, pull it until the timer clicks into the "run" position, then reach behind it with a flat screwdriver and poke the clip off.
The front panel of these machines is held in place by two spring catches at the top, and rests on two tabs at the bottom. If so, physically turn the transmission until there is clearance. The whole clutch comes off in one piece as shown in figure FA-6 and is replaced as a unit. They contain springs, but they also seal and compress air, much like an air shock on a car.
Remove the 5 screws holding on the backsplash and lift it off; the fill valve will come with it.
Remove the screws from the dampening straps (four rubber straps at the top of the tub.) If you are going to be removing the transmission, remove the agitator and basket.

Note that besides holding the agitator, the air bell contains air to keep water away from the transmission oil seal.
So the O-ring on the bolt that holds the air bell in place is an important air seal and must be in good shape. There is a special slugging spanner wrench to remove these nuts; unfortunately, they're not cheap. It's a little easier. Down below in the tub area, disconnect the pressure switch tube from left side of the tub, and bleach hose if installed. Then lift the tub and tilt it either forward or backwards to remove it from the cabinet. Pop off the eight clips holding on the tub crown.
Note that three sides of the crown have forks that fit over knobs on the side of the tub, so it can only go on one way.) Remove the basket and the split ring and washer underneath it from the top of the transmission casing. Note that the ribs on the pulley stick upwards. The lower bearing assembly is now accessible.
A rebuild kit is available for (at the time of this writing) about $75, with the special tools necessary available for about $50 more. See section 6-6 to rebuild.To remove the transmission, cut the cable tie holding the overflow pipe to the motor platform. Remove the four bolts holding the motor platform to the transmission, and the four bolts holding the platform to the tub. Using the handles of a pair of pliers, pop it out from the inside of the tub and press a new one in by hand.6-6 REBUILDING THE LOWER BEARING (Figure FA-8)There is a bearing kit to replace the lower bearing. Several different pulley hubs are included in the bearing kit; each is a different thickness. There are metal guages and instructions also included in the bearing kit. There's also a set of special tools to change it out.
If it turns easily by hand but won't drain the tub, replace the whole pump and motor assembly.

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