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Via email, text message, or notification as you wait on our site.Ask follow up questions if you need to. Tory Johnson, GMA Workplace Contributor, discusses work-from-home jobs, such as JustAnswer in which verified Experts answer people’s questions. If your parking brake is no longer working too well, or you notice your car is no longer stopping as fast as it used to, your rear brakes could be shot without you even knowing it. When cleaning the brakes, use Brake clean in a well-ventilated area and apply liberally, you will not harm the shoes material, so don?t be afraid to soak everything!
When applying the lube on the backing plate, also, apply that liberally, however, if ANY gets on the shoe material, it must be cleaned with brake cleaner, but be sure not to wash away the lube you just installed.
When trying to install the retaining bolts for the spindles, it may take some lifting and turning of the drum to line up all the bolt holes.
Note: this is the location I put the rear jack stands, it is such a location, you can jack up one side in the rear, place both jack stands and lower the car onto them.
3) Using the 13mm socket, swivel adapter and extension, remove the 4 spindle retaining bolts.
Note: For vehicles with ABS, the wire from the connector that was unplugged will come out with the spindle. 7) You can then wiggle, pull and push to get the assembly of the rear brakes off the backing plate. 11) Now that all that is done, you can place the entire assembly back onto the parking brake cable. 12) Squeeze the pistons for the wheel cylinder in towards each other to make the brake assembly fit around it.
13) Once the assembly is back on the backing plates, you need to install the pins through the backing plate and install the retaining clips. Note: In order to install the retaining clips, you need to hold the pin from the back of the drum, and make it point as far up as possible.
14) Once all that is installed, make sure the shoes are about centered and even with each other. 15) Make sure the shoe surface is totally cleaned then place the drum and spindle assembly back over the shoes. Note: For vehicles with ABS, the wire for the wheel speed sensor will need to go back through the backing plate the same way it came out.
Note: If the drum doesn?t fit, try shifting the shoes up and down and you should be able to get it over the assembly.



Note: Before driving vehicle, pump the brake pedal to ensure the shoes are adjusted out enough to be functional. If you would like to tell a friend about this product, please complete the form below and click 'Send'. I recently noticed my rear brakes made a kind of squeaking noise when I applied the E-brake (yes, while the car was in motion).
Welcome to the forum, killerofangels! For a first post you sure know how to make an impression. This section will mainly be used to provide useful guides for everything from changing your steering wheel to fixing that damn parcel shelf!
I wish I had read this before attempting to change my brake cylinder which has a busted off bleed nipple.I made the error of assuming the cage nut was supposed to open up and come off in small parts.
Late replying I know, but no mention above of it, and I had same problem working on a customers car. Well today being one of the first suitable ones this year for car maintenance I decided to do the brakes. To get the best user experience on our website, please disable Adblock for this website (domain) on your browser. Neither the service provider nor the domain owner maintain any relationship with the advertisers. It is nice to know that this service is here for people like myself, who need answers fast and are not sure who to consult. I liked that I could ask additional questions and get answered in a very short turn around.
Not only did you answer my questions, you even took it a step further with replying with more pertinent information I needed to know. If the drum's braking surface looks bad, you will need to buy a new drum and likely it will come with a new rear wheel bearing as well. Then using needle nose pliers or a pair of side cutters, push the retaining clip in and let the pin drop into the clip and release the clip. If you would like to add your own review, please complete the form below and click 'Submit'. Took a while for all the pics to load for me, I'm on dial-up, but it sure is interesting. Do i need some type of tool, or is there some mechanics trick to it?I'm still waiting for a response on this.
Another stupid question, how can you tell if you need new shoes at the rear without pulling off the front of the hub?


Unfortunately for me the replacement discs were the wrong size for my car and the rear shoes were nothing like the ones fitted to my car!
In case of trademark issues please contact the domain owner directly (contact information can be found in whois). You say that you held the short cable in with a cable tie would you recommend doing that before loosening any bits off?
I put my reg in on the euro car parts site and just expected whatever they sent me to be correct, I was wrong, cheers euro car parts!
The brake adjusters are a mystery to me, I simply wound them in a bit in order to fit the drums back on no probs. If there's no tension there it won't self adjust (I learnt the hard way).Question: can anyone confirm the torque setting for the rear hub nuts? Anyway, the discs seemed like a piece of cake to do and I had the drum apart and stripped in no time. Before taking the drums apart I noticed that the adjusters were fitted differently, they were both facing the same way but were seated on different sides.
When I depress the brake pedal there is an almost unnoticeable 'friction' type sound coming from the rears. I fitted them back on each drum the way I had found them on the first drum which I serviced.
It doesn't sound too concerning at the mo but I'm just wondering if its the rear shoes on their last legs? Especially the advice from click about the securing of the master hand brake cable, that took me a little while to find! On looking at the photos in this guide I see that mine are fitted opposite to the ones in the pics (same direction but the clips are on the opposite side).
No idea, all I know is it created a bit of a headache for me lol I did the shoes both sides, pulled handbrake up and it just went straight up to the end of its travel.
For any others who are interested it is situated right in the middle of the car above the heat shroud (I was looking around the back at first), just follow the cables back from the rear, I had to undo 4 fasteners to loosen off the shroud in order to access the cable, once that had been done I used a couple of cable ties to secure it just like click advised it worked a treat. Thanks for all the advice on here guys its been a real help even though I managed to change absolutely nothing today!




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