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I want to replace the front discs with new ones but there is a large nut,how do i remove disc and re-fit please?Do i just need a breaker bar with a socket on the end?Any help appreciated.She is also getting her brake warning light flickering when going down hills and cornering and i've opped up fluid to well above max,any ideas? Haven't seen the film, but those are the best Centaur conversions I have ever seen - several notches above the fellow who did the all-Centaur Chaos army. If you expanded your theme to include Jadis' (sp?) army you could have a couple more options. I would, however, consider cutting down on the variety of troop types, especially within a unit. Smaller than the current plastic ones, so they won't look quite as out of place on 20mm bases.
Should have mentioned that the painting is only half-finished, so don't judge me too harshly! I also thought of doing a narnian theme, but i'm not so sure how it works out with Wood Elves. Nice man, I didnt see the movie but I like it, the painting is actually quite smooth in my opinion for TT. Top part was HE spearelf torso, marauder arms, various weapons, butchered marauder heads, space marine shoulder guards, carved up HE cav shields for the plates, green stuff the rest. I don't know why people are getting critical of the paint job, a whole army of that standard would look awesome. While I agree with your values when it comes to army standards (they are so much more impressive), the guy did ask for feedback. At the risk of pulling this thread very much off-topic, yeah, both series do have a lot of pro-colonialistic overtones.
There's another rant I have about how Susan with bow+Lucy with healing thingie+Jadis (hey look kids! What you mean is that the "instrument thing" (I believe "horn" is the usual term) should be a little more upright. I think that basing them just like the landscape in the film will look a lot better then normal woodelf forest bases.
I’ve had great success using wet plaster of paris painted directly onto the base in clumps. If the whole army is that well modelled and painted then you will have a cracker on your hands and one of if not the best armies ive seen. To get the best user experience on our website, please disable Adblock for this website (domain) on your browser. But those centuars are Mind Blowingly good The fluid movement is fantastic, and so natural.
You've got an immortal God-Emperor, his son is a Lion if not a Jonson, the main race of bad guys fight with scimitars and have a different skin colour. I grabbed a Reaper(?) winged tiger with no immediate intentions of painting it just because I'm painting stripes on my marines.
That was one of the my main gripes about the show - it looked too much like a zoo, and not enough like an army..
They already have an army of their own, and they are the one unit that would fit the least.
As the ever-perceptive JZ noted, it's the movement, posture and balance I'm trying to capture. I'm much more impressed with someone who puts in consistant work into a whole army than spend the same amount of time on a few random models.
The big bad guy they beat (SPOILER ALERT!) at the end of The Last Battle is the Calormen equivalent of Aslan - the big bird thing, Sash or whatever.
You could also check out Dark Heaven - actually I'm pretty sure that's just a Reaper range.
It will only be top-end tabletop quality though, as I have a whole army to paint and although I've been in the final 4 or 5 in a couple of categories in Oz GD, I don't find it rewarding enough to put that much time into painting. LOTR is a little heavy for (little) kids to begin with, and the Easterlings (I believe) get a shot at making up for allying with Sauron, unlike the Orcs, Saruman and so on. However it will look a little "normal", so I was thinking of adding a bit of scattered snow to represent the melting of the White Witch's winter. There's a scene in the film where a centaur has an enemy clambering on his back during a fight, and he twists to plunge both his swords into it. The mouse character in the mini-series was %^&* annoying - if you've seen than you've got an excuse to include at least one Skaven wearing an Empire outfit to go with your Ungors. It's probably hard to see properly when all black (at least I hope that's the reason) but that's what this chap is doing. Just to shove our faces in it, The Shire is basically a short (pardon the pun) Thomas Hardy novel jammed in the middle of a mythic Norse landscape.
Do not use DOT5 fluid as it is silicone based and is not miscible with the other DOT fluids.
Quite a different feel movement-wise from the first unit.2 more units planned - prototypes in progress. One will be a unit with lance and shield, another with sword and shield, also with scattered great cats among them.Not sure how the army will play yet. I either need to take all 4 special choices as wild riders (!) or take Orion so they become core.

Not keen on a 600-odd pt model with no armour save and only a mundane 5+ ward save though!It's taken a long time. Tap on your frame with a small hammer or poke it with a screwdriver to see if you have more holes than you should. Other rust-prone areas are directly under the gas pedal on the floor (the catalytic converter is there and sometimes a leak can shoot superhot exhaust at the floor, which rusts it out badly), under the back seats on the floor (poor seam sealing on Nissan's part) and at the tension rod frame mounts up front.
Tension rods are the short bars that go between the lower control arm and the frame in the front suspension. I will probably mix in some animals if I can get them - leopards and other cats among the cavalry, maybe a huge rhinocerous as a treeman. Oreius will be either a wild rider character or an altar kindred (centaur on cavalry or infantry base depending), Peter a character (Brettonian knight of some sort) on unicorn (which will have to be a steed or stag).
I recommend using polyurethane bushings to replace stock rubber tension rod bushings whenever possible.Exhaust manifolds leakingVery common, caused by poor exhaust stud material, the studs break and cause the manifold to leak.
Other than that, there is a newer smart entrance control unit in the latter half of the production of 2001.5 Pathfinders. Usually sounds like a clicking noise at startup that gradually quiets down after driving for a little while. ALso, if you have any suggestions for the cats and rhinocerous, please tell.Also been looking for the right mounted Brettonian knight to resemble Peter - without much success. Broken-off rusted studs inside the head can be VERY painful to extract due to their location and the fact that if you mis-drill the hole in the head you can drill into the water jacket and then have to buy a whole new head, but studs that break off outside the head can often be hammered and extracted without drilling. In my opinion, the performance difference is quite noticeable, and the few dollars difference per fill-up between regular and premium (91 or higher) octane gasoline is well worth the difference. Main problem is the centerlink design which allows the tie rods to twist torsionally, thereby wallering out the joints on both the CL AND the tie rods.
If you own a WD21 and haven't yet installed an auxiliary transmission cooler and bypassed the stock cooler, go buy the largest one you can afford and install it now.Alternatively, you can clean the stock cooler (see NTB00-056b - 1988 AND LATER NISSAN VEHICLES AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION OIL COOLER CLEANING for details), do a cooler line exchange (the procedure is detailed in the previous post), and then install an in-line Magnefine cooler on the return line. Pull up the carpet from the passenger side to free the gear shift, and remove the shifter boot.2. Cut off the zip-tie holding the gearshift dustboot, and pull it up from the shifter assembly. You will then see a snap-ring underneath, remove it (you do have snap-ring pliers, right?) and then remove the gearshift lever.
If you do not use the parking brake on a steep hill, you may encounter a significant amount of trouble attempting to shift out of P because there is so much strain on the parking pawl. You are done!Note, shifter should be in neutral, and be careful when removing and inserting it as there is a plastic swivel thing on the end. If you have a P1320 code without any associated misfire code, the common fix is to replace all six spark plugs and coil packs. The lack of threadlocker allows the possibility of the very small screws to back out of their screw holes due to vibration, and get eventually sucked in by the engine when the power valves are actuated, potentially causing significant engine damage. Applying red threadlocker to the 12 power valve screws is a way to ensure this does not occur. There is an excellent how-to with pictures detailing the process here (thanks BowTied on NPORA for writing the original how-to). Some other power adders available for the R50 are high performance camshafts and an ECU reprogramming service. Other options include universal power adders such as upgraded spark plugs (such as Pulstar or something similar), electric fan conversion, throttle body bypass and a timing advance. The R5's have a plethora of options, including custom bent exhaust systems, a supercharger, custom headers, and high performance camshafts, as well as a slew of aftermarket ECU programmers. What should I do?A: There is a common myth that performing a flush on a high-mileage transmission without previous service can kill it.
This is perpetuated by vehicle owners who begin to experience transmission failures such as slipping and harsh shifting and have never serviced the transmission previously. Thinking a complete fluid change (aka a flush) might fix everything, they have one performed. Installation of a Magnefine in-line transmission filter on the transmission cooler return line is also highly recommended.
The Magnefine contains a very strong magnet to catch all ferrous wear material, and filtering media in the range of 35 microns to catch anything non-ferrous.
Install one on the power steering return line too to significantly prolong the usable life of the power steering fluid. Ford has tested the Magnefine (even installed backwards) and found no appreciable pressure drop with the filter installed.
Ford also used to recommend a rebadged Magnefine for use after a transmission rebuild or replacement, but no longer does so for some reason (nobody knows why). See a Magnefine filter in use for 23,000 miles opened here, and see one that I personally ran on my Pathfinder for 13k miles here.
Disconnect the transmission cooler return line and secure it in a collection bucket such as a clear gallon milk jug. Have a helper start the car while you watch the bucket - once it's half full (2 quarts), yell for the helper to stop the engine.3. Check fluid for proper level (see the next question and answer for details), and recycle the old ATF.
Any place that takes used oil will likely recycle ATF.It is advisable to install a Magnefine in-line transmission filter as well. Drive around for 10 minutes in the city after the transmission is at operating temperature.2.

Pull the transmission dipstick with the engine idling, wipe it clean, reinsert it completely, and read the level.
Check for fluid contamination after wiping on a paper towel.The fluid should be red, and not smell burnt. However, if you tow frequently, it would be a wise idea to install an auxiliary transmission cooler to help lower transmission temperatures. Since the stock cooler is not as prone to clogging as the WD21 transmission, it should be installed in-line with the stock cooler in the radiator.
The stock cooler will help warm up the fluid to operating temperature quicker on cold starts, and a oil-to-water cooler is extremely efficient.
However, the slightly thicker B&M 70264 which is rated at 24k GVW will fit without an issue on an R50. You can find an album of photos detailing my transmission cooler install here.Ideally, before installing the auxiliary transmission cooler, one would clean it out. When a fluid states that it is GL-4 and GL-5 suitable, it is likely referring to use in a differential, not in a manual transmission. While GL-4 fluids can sometimes be difficult to obtain, I would not chance significant transmission damage, especially when the lubricant in question is changed out at relatively lengthy intervals, in order to save a few dollars by using an easily-obtained GL-5 rated lubricant. Grease the driveshaft(s) every time after there is potential water entry, such as driving through standing water.
Otherwise, if your Pathfinder primarily stays on the road, greasing every oil change is likely sufficient. While the FSM says 80W-90 is preferred, there will be no problem running 75W-90 (of which most are synthetic). This will reduce the boiling point of the fluid, which may result in brake fade (in which case the brake pedal falls to the floor and you have reduced or no braking) if the fluid boils.
There is no recommended service interval in either the owner's manual or factory service manual; some other makes do specify intervals, however. Even if you do a thorough flush using DOT5, there still may be old fluid left in the calipers which will just sit there and absorb moisture.
All you need to do is crack the bleeder screw and ensure the master cylinder reservoir is always topped off.
Bleed the LSV like you would a brake line, then pull the lever to the full down position and repeat. Fluids that meet DOT4 specifications are easily found at most local auto parts stores.Some choose to use ATE Super Blue fluid due to its unique blue color and because it greatly exceeds minimum specifications.
Steel is much stronger and much cheaper, however it can rust very easily and it weighs significantly more than aluminum or alloy wheels.
Aluminum (or alloy) wheels are much lighter and will never rust but they can be quite expensive. If the vehicle is a daily driver or spends most of its time on the road, then aluminum (or alloy) is recommended for weight savings and better fuel economy. The job is much easier if the tires are removed from the rims, although it isn't necessary. Unclamp radiator overflow reservoir hose next to radiator cap and route it below the engine so the contents of the reservoir can drain. Mine had a lot of sediment, which is why I used so much distilled water to flush it all out.5.
Pre-mix 1 gallon Genuine Nissan Coolant (see below for choosing between green and blue coolants) and 1 gallon distilled water using a suitable container, such as a new gas can that holds 2+ gallons. You can rev the engine to around 2k RPM to speed this process up once the temperature gauge starts climbing.
If you are getting a flush done at the dealer, ask them to use the blue coolant, but if you're just doing a drain & fill and already have the green coolant in there, use green as adding blue to green will reduce the life expectancy of the blue coolant to that of the green (which is 4 years or 60,000 miles). Open the reservoir, remove the small filter, then suck most of the fluid out and replace with synthetic ATF. Synthetic ATF will reduce temperatures and provide better cold-weather performance; no longer will your power steering pump groan and moan during those cold starts in the winter months.
Either way, just don't forget about this; a partially restricted or clogged fuel filter will reduce performance noticeably and shorten the life of the fuel pump as it will have to work harder to pump fuel through a restricted filter. For you 1996-2000 owners that are wondering where the stock clock is, it was in the factory head unit. This part basically controls the four fan speeds and it is probably burnt out and requires replacement. If you have the manual (three dials) HVAC controls, then the issue is the blower motor resistor pack. Check the list of How-Tos, do a search, and if all else fails, feel free to post a new topic!
Alternately, ask your question here and if it seems like a common question, I'll add it to this list. Feedback is also welcome, please correct me if I'm wrong or if you have something to add to a specific question or answer, say so!

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