End title co2 vs pco2,ford edge 2009 opiniones usuarios,sas left censored data survival analysis example,erectile dysfunction forum singapore wrx - PDF Books

We have decided to disallow the sales, giving and trading of shrimp through AQ from Monday, 20th Aug 2012 onwards until further notice. After owning both type of regulator and experimenting with them, i have been pondering on why is there a need for a dual gauge when the single gauge one works the same. My first CO2 regulator is a JBJ dual gauge regulator with solenoid control, needle valve and brass bubble counter. Recently I got my 2nd CO2 system with an UP Aqua single gauge regulator without solenoid control or needle valve.
PRESSURE GAUGE - Typically all dual gauge regulators are installed with an electric solenoid. All regulators reduces the pressure to a more workable and manageable pressure from 1000 psi. For a working pressure adjustable regulator, the 2nd gauge is useful as you will need to know the exact pressure you have adjusted to. But if you get brands like JBJ where the working pressure is fixed, it is not really needed as the output pressure will always be the same. All single gauge regulators have a fixed working pressure and are set at different pressure for different brands. NEEDLE VALVE – It is needed for a more precise control of the CO2 flow and will work with either type of regulator as long you get the correct fitting size.
SPLITER - To split the output so that you can connect the same CO2 system to more than 1 aquarium.
In a nut shell, you do not need a dual gauge regulator if the working pressure cannot be adjusted.
I think if they design it your way, something very strong is needed to keep the valve in place be it on or off and this will also means a very strong solenoid is need to go against this force.
Anyway, if your solenoid can heat things up so badly till the cylinder is hot, you better change it asap.
If you are using PU tubing, don't have to worry as it can withstand pressure above 1000 psi. While this 100+ page thread is a mine of information, and is a very useful resource for general reg information, please note that it's a US based forum, where they use a different thread type from the rest of the world, including a different co2 tank connection, as well as solenoids that run on 110V.

They have very nice components tho, and that's why I'm in the midst of assembling a reg that should be the last one I will ever need, but the different standards are a real pita.
Clippard Mouse solenoid valve, with three way manifold, expandable two extra ports in 10-32 thread. The DIY build quality of these setups are far more better than the setup you see in the fish store, some of the double stage regulators we use are over 1000 USD when new, also the Metering valves, some are in USD 100+ range. Just so you know, most of the members of here are from Singapore on the other side of the globe, while the rest are from the nearby region(I do know some from as far as the UK). Nonetheless, my post above still stands, the US standards are quite different from the rest of the world.
You could technically get one to work, but will require some luck and effort to source for parts or what might be easier is to hack an existing euro type regulator for parts, which basically means you either end up with inferior connections or you hacked up a perfectly fine euro reg. Somebody said CO2 may cause erosion to metal part of an O2 regulator if water go inside since it's acid. Any third party products, brands or trademarks listed above are the sole property of their respective owner.No affiliation or endorsement is intended or implied.
AQ members), AQ can automatically read your RSS feeds and post your new blog entries as AQ threads. And seeing that a lot of people are confused of the terms for CO2 regulators and to help out people who have just venture into high tech planted tank, I am sharing some of my knowledge to help others enjoy the hobby better.
1 gauge for cylinder pressure and 1 for working pressure which is factory set at around 25 psi permanently. The function of the regulator is just to regulate the amount of gas being output by reducing the pressure to a less dangerous and workable level.
Main difference for a dual gauge regulator is there is a 2nd gauge to measure the working pressure. Yes, the working pressure will fluctuate slightly when running but there is really nothing much you can do about it on the regulator. Again it is NOT true that it is difficult to adjust the pressure with a needle valve if you do not have a dual gauge regulator.
I believe there will be higher wear and tear also with such great force not to mention the bigger size to house everything.

This configuration end the problem of END OF TANK OUTPUT PRESSURE RISE, or commonly refer to by hobbyists, as END OF TANK DUMP ( EOTD) problem.
But even then is never a drop in perfect fit which I'm currently waiting to see if my setup is leaking. Thanks for the info, could you kindly point me to one of these adapters, I have been trying to find one for several weeks now, and are definitely not easily found around here. A lot of people misunderstood that only a dual gauge regulator steps down the pressure and often have the misconception that a needle valve will work well only with a dual gauge regulator because the pressure is reduced. Maybe the only way to adjust it is send it back to the manufacturer or to a professional who knows how to readjust it. That means not only the solenoid will not consume the expensive electricity, but also it will be not hot. If you get blocked as a "spammer" while registering please come back to this page and read this post.
This is not true, all regulator including single gauge ones reduces pressure and that is why it is a regulator. By default, most of the single gauge regulators do not come with needle valve but have a smaller knob to control the pressure.
Since the hose is steel, the silicon tubing around there will be very fading and bent easily. When power is on, the magnetic control valve will be magnetized and the valve will open and when power is cut off the valve is closed as there is no current to keep the valve open. You need very steady hands to get the correct bps using this knob as a very small turn makes quite a significant difference. In actual fact a single gauge regulator can also be fitted with a solenoid just that it is not a common combination. Just tell the LFS you want manual or auto regulator and they will know which one to sell you.

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