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I reviewed the Mossberg 100 ATR well over a year ago and my opinion of the rifle hasn’t changed. The next rung up would be the Ruger American Rifle, which I reviewed in .30-06 Springfield. Weatherby came out with their Series 2 Vanguard rifles at SHOT Show this year and they have proven to be absolutely wonderful rifles.
As for a scope for that bad boy, my default recommendation is the Konus 4×32 Riflescope. Post tagged for interest… As a southpaw, a right hand AR is passable, but RH bolt actions are a no go. Actually that’s just sub-$500 with a very respectable Nikon BDC 3-9x-40, and the accutrigger.
Eh, I actually think RH bolts are better for lefties if you’re shooting supported or from a bench. I have left handed savage 110c with the clip option from the 60s ultra smooth bolt action and paired with a leopould 3×9 adjustable scope. I never even looked at the Weatherby products because of the name-brand price range issues.
I have yet to buy my 1st hunting rifle and been doing a lot of research to see how to get the best bang for my buck, and where I live (mountains of NH) I will rarely if at all have the opportunity to shoot anything over 100 yards because of terrain & vegitation issues so I think taking advatage of dual-use ammo, I am going to buy a Henry lever action chambered in 45LC because I already own a pistol that shoots the same rounds. Deer, moose, and bear in new hampshire have all been taken with this heavy hitting round and Henry lever action rifles have a good solid reputation backed by being in business for over a century.
Sanded the stock and forend where they touch the barrel, so that more or less you’ve free floated the barrel. Savages aren’t the best looking or best feeling out of the box, but what they are is solid and stupid accurate. You can buy a drop in trigger to lighten the pull up and reduce creep too for another eighty bucks.
Joe’s choice highlights the problem with this exercise: what kind of disaster and how long would it last? For Dave, familiarity breeds contentment: “Now why would I choose a 57-year-old rifle with a low-powered scope?
Paul mentions ammo and parts availability but it seems pretty clear he thinks the question is an exercise in mall ninja mental masturbation. Anyone who chooses a high-power semi-auto as a SHTF rifle isn’t thinking the exercise through very hard.
Depending on the kindness (or incompetence, depending on your perspective) of strangers for you ammo is a highly dubious strategy. If I’m having to think about limited or no ammo availability in a SHTF situation, then I want my brass to last as long as possible. On a (eg) bolt action rifle, if you’re not sharing your brass with anyone else, your first shot on new brass will form the case to your chamber. Net:net, by choosing a bolt action, falling block or other non-semi rifle, you can carry the ability to create your own ammo much more easily than you can carry thousands of rounds of loaded ammo. People really should avert their gaze from the modern plastic-n-aluminum guns for just a bit and look at how the guys who wandered the west 130 or so years ago did it.
And, BTW – the Po-Po, should they become hyperactive, are more likely to seize an AR or other modern rifle, than an old BPCR or muzzle-stuffer.
That being the case, would you be looking at cartridges that were originally specced for black powder loadings like .45-70 and .45LC too?
Would a classic .30-30 lever action then fill your requirements for gentle treatment of brass, reloadability, and also add higher rate of fire than a bolty if such should be needed? If all I had were a real Sharps 1874 rifle, then I’d take that over a lot of modern rifles.
The straight-walled cases of 100+ years ago are very amenable to improvised reloading, lead bullets, paper patching, easy (or easier) cleaning, etc.
A .45 Colt, used in a modern single-action revolver or modern lever gun, can be loaded to much more power than it ever was in a Colt SAA. Lever guns: The Marlins are pretty stout guns and as an example, their 336 is easier for the non-gunsmith to repair than a Win94.
I don’t have Dyspeptic Gunsmiths expertise but in my opinion the marlin is stronger and is easier to put aftermarket sights on.



What are your thoughts about the new Marlins currently being produced in NY under the Freedom Group and Remington? Since you already have a .357 revolver, Aharon maybe you would be better served by the 1894 marlin if you can locate a decent used one.
Having a common round for your rifle and pistol can’t be a bad thing in a shtf situation.
These are some really interesting thoughts, followed to their logical conclusions, one should end up with a 44mag lever gun and a 44mag revolver, or the same combo in 45LC.
One book I’ve read on the history of gunpowder had some humorous documentation of French powder masters making special pains to collect the chamber pots of bishops and priests, as the amount of red wine these holy men consumed made their chamber pots especially lucrative in nitrates. Again, if people start a serious study of how we, Americans, did things in the 19th century, all questions will be answered.
I agree that a Marlin 1894 .357 is probably the best choice in a long gun for someone in my situation.
Have you considered creating a link using your online nic to a contact page for gun owners who might want to contact you about work? Other people, when the SHTF, have let the po-po know that while they are out harassing others for fun, profit, and the Regime, that their families are unprotected. One of MY shtf weapons is a Marlin 1894 in 44 mag, with a matching Redhawk…and none max loads for everyday use. Breaking Surviving a Venomous Snake Bite – What You Need to Know When is it safe to start your garden?
A totally disassembled Dater model TC3 suppressor in .357 magnum for the Thompson centerfire pistol pictured— one of Dater's custom designs for this powerful handgun.
And while it may be jumping the queue a little bit, its only because this is the exact same question that hunters across the country are asking right now in preparation for the upcoming hunting season.
I know about their reputation and would have never dreamed that you could get their quality for under a grand. Cheap enough that by the time it comes by, I might have talked the significant other into it. Then, wrap some (less than you’d think) high temperature electrical tape around the barrel, about 4-6 inches from the muzzle (for historical accuracy, use oiled wool or leather scraps). I’ve spent years and hundreds of dollars trying to get my A-bolt to shrink group size to what I had with my Savage 111. In any likely disaster scenario, which excludes zombies, it’s gonna be a long time before we have to hunt for food (canned tuna again?). Could you please expound upon what you wrote above and put down some of your thoughts on this issue about what would be some good choices and why?
You won’t need to trim nearly as often, and you need only neck size after your first shot. Sharps (and other falling block sporting rifles) often came with a set of dies, a bullet mold (or two) and a hand loading tool.
Oh, and BTW – you can still order a kit to build a muzzle-stuffer with no background check, 4473 or other paperwork. Best single action wheelgun for the money today: Ruger Vaquero or New Model Blackhawk, esp. The new Marlins seem somewhat rough in describing the guns lever action handling, fit, and finish.
Would you recommend one over the other, new or used, or not a big difference to be concerned about? You make some mercury fulminate by dissolving some mercury in nitric acid, and adding some alcohol. I think that my next step should be in contacting gunsmiths to inquire about the practicableness and costs involved to fixing up a new Marlin to bring it up to standards if necessary.
An AR is a flexible platform I can put multiple calibers on with an upper change so I’d want one, even if it is less useful in the longer term than the Ruger #1.
Price is a major factor, as I’m not looking to spend more than $500 for rifle + scope.
A better free floating stock, a detachable internal magazine and a FAR superior bedding system make this rifle a definite step up from the Mossberg. At just about $65 MSRP, this thing is just enough glass to get you solid hits out to 250 yards.


Then, at the points where you put in the screws to hold in the reciever to the stock, put brass washers to separate the metal from the wood (for historical accuracy, use brass shims).
Government types will likely move in and disarm rifle toters (at least here in the northeast).
With semi-autos, you have brass elongation, you need to trim your brass frequently, full-length size on every load, and after a few reloadings, you basically run out of brass life.
Your brass, properly treated and not loaded to wicked hot pressures, will last a long, long, long, loooong time. Now for making my own bullets, I can find raw lead (old pipes, roof flashing, wheel weights in a junkyard, linotype, etc), melt it down, cast my own bullets. The rifle companies just assumed you were going to get black powder, primers and lead locally. Many people are currently avoiding new Marlins and some older used ones are difficult to find ie the 1894 in 357. After that, you need charcoal, which is trivial, and sulphur, which isn’t absolutely essential.
I hope that I don’t end up paying as much in smith costs needed for a new Marlin as I do for the price of the gun itself. But since that rifle was reviewed, some new players have come onto the field and I have to admit I like all of them more than the 100 ATR.
And while the MSRP is just a hair over your $500 limit, Bud’s has these for about $460 in your caliber of choice. Anything past that and you may want to consider paying more for a scope than it takes to fill up your tank.
The price is right for me, they have a stellar reputation for shooting well, and with a little gunsmithing, I can change the barrel out and have a 308 and a 260 for pretty short money. The first 2 shots are somewhat close to each other, but every shot after that wanders further away until off the target at 50 yards. I did these mods to my Mosin, and it shoots under 2 inches with S&B soft-point hunting ammo, a little tighter with the match grades. If you want bells and whistles, proper cheek comb, nice trigger, then you’ll be spending more than $500. Also to his credit, my new favorite OFWG bitches about not being able to choose a handgun and a rifle. Just anneal the necks ever half-dozen loadings and your limiting factor will likely be how well your brass retains the primer in the pocket. Hunters and marksmen bought these rifles, loaded their own ammo and laid down some quite credible shooting in their day with this equipment.
To be fair, I also have a Smith fiber optic front sight and I did these mods before I took my first shot with the gun, so I can’t say how much this will help you. Milsurplus is hit and miss in my experience, and they are generally heavier than civilian models and tend to have even worse ergonomics. Short-term use of center fire rifles and pistols would be great for defense and warding off the apocalypses, but without ammo what can you do? Discreet when it needs to be, lethal enough when it has to be and you can schlep a shitload of ammo.
Pick the right sort of brass, and you’ll get easily a dozen or more loadings out of a set of brass.
If I had to, I could revert a 1874 rifle back to a paper cartridge – you pull the falling block for brass cartridges out, make up a block that takes a percussion cap and has a knife on the front side to slice open the back of the paper cartridge. I don’t know what condition your rifle is in, but this should help at least a little. Some are solid, some are stinkers, so if you want to be sure, the Savage is my recommendation.



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