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admin | Category: Shipping Container Manufacturers | 31.01.2014
Plans to Build a Brick Barbecue An outdoor barbecue is always a great way to enjoy with friends and family.
I thought it was time to do something a little different; I was looking for a submarine that was small, could turn on a dime and was easy and fun to drive. Mike Botelho has done an excellent rendition of this submarine in 16 inches, and rumor has it that he is assisting Rick in developing an 18 inch version of the hull. I had the pleasure of meeting Dave at the 2006 Subregatta in Carmel, and swimming along side his FS-1. Rick really went out of his way for me and actually pre-bonded the wings, and cut the access hatch out.
Progress Report: April 1st (2007) - No this is not an April Fools joke, I actually got some work done. Over the last couple of weeks I have managed to find some time to put holes in the model, trim out a couple of pieces, and add some primer. The mixer itself is hard to see, it about the size of a quarter and is plugged in between the receiver and ESCs.
Hopefully in the next couple of weeks I will finish the vents, spot putty a couple of areas and do a final primer coat.
Progress Report: May 1st (2007) Progress has been made on the bow and stern of the Flying Sub. I started out by working on the front end, previously I had already cut out the holes for the grill vents on the bow.
I got some presents from Ted Scrivens, he made up some headlights and thruster rings for my FS1. Next steps are to clean up the hull a little, do a final primer coat, and start working on the inside. Progress Report: June 16th (2007) Change of plan, with the Ottawa Sub Regatta happening, and I didnt have the time to get the FS1 running, I decide to at least make it look good. Below is a photo of the linkage used to control the depth of the FS1 that utilizes the waterproof servo. The following photos document all internal mounted in the submarine, minus all the required floatation foam.
You will note in the above that I designed it so that the weight distribution is somewhat equal between bow and stern, also the weight is really isolated to the centerline of the submarine and between the rear thrusters, which should help for stability and responsiveness. While not easy to see if you look hard you will be able to see the front pumps used for backing up, or firing with the diagonal forward pump to spin the sub on its axis. While a smidge bit high to dive easily a couple of quarters and dimes will be used to do final trim on each patrol.


It should be a good year for Flying Subs looking forward to setting an in water record this year at the cottage. Progress Report: May 1st (2007)A  Progress has been made on the bow and stern of the Flying Sub. Progress Report: June 16th (2007)A  Change of plan, with the Ottawa Sub Regatta happening, and I didnt have the time to get the FS1 running, I decide to at least make it look good. It should be a good year for Flying SubsA  looking forward to setting an in water record this year at the cottage. As a machinist, there aren't a lot of things that are impossible to make, but after diving in and doing some research, it really doesn't save you any money in the end over buying it off the shelf.
But I can't see the cost of materials, and the weekend spent standing in front of a machine control adding up to the $500+ you can buy these things off the shelf for. There is probably a reason people pay $500 for these things, so let me know if there's anything I've overlooked. You might save a few bucks, but really have to know what you are doing if you are going to get good results. I have seen custom EFI setups where the IAC was just a hose to a vac port with a solenoid on it and a calibrated restriction to give suitable idle air . Originally Posted by 88gunmetalgta Although its not hard to figure out, the linkage is one of the trickier parts from a design standpoint. I gotta say that has to be one of the nicest outdoor brick smokers I have ever reviewed online.
The goal was to have a submarine at the cottage that that folks (including my kids) would be comfortable driving. Even if Voyage to the Bottom of the Sea is not your cup of tea they are a must own collection for anybody who wants to learn how to learn the craft of model making. Ted is my ace in the hole as he is a local resource I can consult over coffee at Tims while I build up my FS-1. I think he knows I am pretty busy with two kids and wanted to get me rolling on this project. I cut out the etched vents provided with the hull and am in the process of making up real vents out of brass. I wanted the look and feel of a mirrored window, but I also wanted the rigidity the hull offered by not cutting out the window wells. I needed to do this so that the bow thrusters could push water through the vents in order to achieve reverse. Extra effort was made to keep foam high in this low profile hull, otherwise the sub could become inverted and yes I have seen this happen.


Extra effort was made to keep foam high in this low profile hull, otherwise the sub could become invertedA  and yes I have seen this happen. I figure I'll be into it about $120 in materials (provided I mill the $70 chunk of aluminum right the first time). Basically I plan to make the bores as big as possible, with as smooth a transition from the top into the bores as I can.
Even the cheepest aftermarket stuff has at least a minimum of engineering (or at least copying) into it. I haven't actually pulled my IAC and TPS to find out how exactly they mount, so I can't exactly draw the final side and back profiles. Even the cheepest aftermarket stuff has at least a minimum of engineering Is only a block of alum with 4 holes and butterflies in it. A solid, permanent brick outdoor grill is a powerful sight Not many of us can resist the smell of a steak, hamburger or even a hot dog grilling on an outdoor barbecue. I have elected to try a V-Tail Mixer (actually an Mtronic Tank Mixer) to Mix the ESCs that control the 4 thrust motors (bilge pumps).
Remember the purpose of this model is for anybody to take the helm while at the cottage (including my 3 year old daughter), so its going to take some bumps and groundings.
I opted for the Mtronic Tank Mixer as it was a) waterproof, and b) designed to control ESCs. Well the good news is that work was done in 2008 to get me closer, and the FS1 actually met the water for some staged photos, also the internals where built up just not documented. I don't see the advantage of a progressive linkage, even though there probably wouldn't be too much added complexity.
My pedal has a longer throw than most due to the LS1 TB that's on it now, so that will make it a little easier to control (like for small speed changes and stuff) but I've never actually had difficulty with speed control on my old direct linkage truck. For this reason I have been toying with the idea of leaving the wells in place, covering the inside of the window with waterproof tinfoil duct tape, and using a thin acrylic sheet to give it a glass effect. I'll mill a pocket inside the bottom of the base to allow for a couple vac ports to join the IAC passage at the bottom.



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Comments »

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