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A common problem for the Dodge Ram pick up truck is to have low airflow even though the blower fan can be heard loud and strong.
In the image below, the x’s mark most of the trim pieces that need to be removed to gain access to bolts which hold the dash.
Note that the steering coloumn is unbolted and allowed to drop down and is not unbolted at the steering coupler. Once the trim panels are out of the way, it’s fairly easy to find the bolts that need to be removed to pull the dash.
Below the new door assembly can be seen back in position and the dash can now be re-installed.
The tips in this article are very basic and NOT intended to be a complete guide for servicing your AC system. I have an article that covers most likely causes of a car’s AC to stop blowing cold after a few minutes.
I have a 2007 diesel Ram mega cab, the passenger side AC blows colder then the driver’s side, I do not have zone control AC.
Mike rather than pulling everything, if you suspect a bad door, I’d remove the actuators and try turning the doors by hand. Hey Zac, I would suspect a leak, since it worked ok for awhile after the correct charge was put in. Iced over evaporator core usually means the expansion valve is bad or moisture in the system. I have a 2006 Dodge 2500 SLT 4WD 5.9 with a similar issue to the others, but not exactly the same. I have a 2001 dodge ram the compressor kicks on and off, the pressure for Freon is good, thought it might be low pressure switch so I replaced it still kicks on and off any ideas?
06 MegaCab 3500 – Low air flow, found evaporator coil clogged with dust due to no cabin filter. The problem causes little heat (or AC depending the time of the year) to flow through the vents.
Click on the image to the left or the following number AAA9 DLT, for more information on the replacement door kit. The replacement door has steel construction instead of the weak composite material used from the factory. One that is not marked is on the top of the dash, it’s the large trim panel which is not visible in the picture. The fresh air door or recirculate door assembly located directly behind the glove box can now be accessed. The dealer should be best equiped to handle a problem like yours especially a 2014 with 13k under factory warranty.
Just a little low on refrigerant can cause this problem, especially on dual zone AC systems. If you can spin them completely around rather than just 180 degrees, it’s probably broken.
Diesel engines don’t create a lot of vacuum so I would guess (without checking any literature) that your mode door is controlled by an electric actuator.
You have components in the dash, under the hood and in front of the radiator with lines connecting everything. A system that has a missing recirculate door (also called MAX air door) will never have maximum airflow. For best results please provide relevant details like your vehicle's year, make, model, engine size, the problem and when it occurs etc. The blower fan can typically be heard with no abnormal sounds, although no air seems to be making it out of  the vents.
This can be an easy job to do at home since the air conditioning system does not have to be discharged. We stopped to fill up then it started blowing properly but still with the variation in temperature. 1st of all I’m a Dodge guy all the way but what a poor design cheap weak link piece of junk that door is to break like it did. See our AC gauge readings explained for more on diagnosing, going by the pressure readings. We turn the air on and we can hear the fan blowing but at times nothing comes out of the vent.
It could be affected by lower voltage when there’s high demand on the electrical system or by an inadequate ground. Since it never can make the defrost operate during it’s calibration set-up, that indicates a problem. Is there another ac system that can replace this manufacture poor ac system, or even another year where Dodge improved air flow and cabin filter? Replaced the switch in the steering column, the blower resistor, and the hvac control module. If the blower motor is working at normal speed, replacing it with another that does the same, would make no difference.
Please don't ask for repair manual info like torque specs, wiring diagrams and specific repair procedures. At Fleet Service Northwest we have seen a trend for trucks with stock tunes failing at between 70,000 and 150,000 miles, and those with performance tuners failing at 22,000 to 80,000 miles or so. When this issues is to be repaired, it is important that certain steps are taken to prevent repeat failure, and to address other potential problems while the engine is disassembled for head gasket replacement. We go over parts that need to be removed to gain access to replace a common failed component.
What can happen is the door can break and fall down covering the blower fan, essentially sealing off  all air-flow.

After removing those, unplug the actuator and give the door assembly a slight tug. Be sure to remove any debris from the blower fan cage before installing the replacement door assembly. I have the dash partially pulled, but there is still something holding it in that I cannot find. A good reliable refrigerant leak detector may help but sometimes still difficult to diagnose. But then if we switch things around or turn it off for a bit and turn it back on we finally get the air flow back out of the vents. Could something else be wrong like the HVAC control module or is this the way it is supposed to work?
I have notice that on start up my vents automatically circulate air on its own to different vents. There may be a code stored that a scan tool that can access HVAC control codes can retrieve. After the control module was replaced all worked fine for couple of days, now back to not working except when it feels like it. These include installation of ARP Head Studs, careful cylinder head inspection, updating HPOP parts, and replacement of additional gaskets and seals that may lead to repeat failures if left unaddressed. That’s why the blower can sound normal on all speeds, but little air can be felt from the vents.
The picture below shows how far the dash has to be pulled back to remove the door assembly – notice it is actually removed. My main issue is the air flow and it sounds as if doors aren’t closing… Thoughts?
The fresh air door at the top of the dash behind the glovebox looks as if it moving freely when the AC mode is changed.
But if we turn down the speed of the fan for to long and go to turn the speed back up we start to not get the air flow we had. Leaves or other debris past the blower stops at the evaporator core and can restrict airflow. Had my truck been newer I would of prob wanted it fixed to oem specs but I plan to trade it in within the next few years so it will be just fine for me no need to stick any more $ into it. If the low side is too low and the AC is not cooling and the refrigerant charge is NOT low, then it could be a bad expansion valve. I’d replace the recirculate door which will enable the air to be circulated in the cab rather than just trying to constantly cool air entering from outside.
I cannot find a diagram of any servo motors or other doors in the duct work I don’t know what else to do. Click the following to view Dennis' "about page" for info on his background in automotive repair. There are several factors that contribute to this stretching, some of which are serious problems that can be addressed through upgrades of their own. I just want to thank everyone on this website for all the great advice I now have working AC in my truck & it cost me no $ at all. If the high side is approaching 500psi, the engine could be overheating or the condenser fan may not be working. I’d check the manual to study the system and see what type of actuators it has for sure. The best way to prevent head gasket failure on the 6 L is to install ARP Head Studs preventively. And also listen for the blower motor sound in case it’s slowing when the problem occurs and go from there. Barring a preventive installation of head studs, avoiding performance tuners until head studs can be installed and maintaining and upgrading the EGR and engine oil cooler are important steps to prolonging cylinder head gasket life. Common symptoms of head gasket failure are coolant expulsion from the coolant pressure cap and residue on and around the coolant expansion bottle.
These symptoms are unique to head gasket failure, but are often misinterpreted as symptoms of potential EGR cooler failure. Overheating may occur in some cases, and these symptoms are commonly noticed first while towing uphill. It is also common for trucks that tow infrequently to experience coolant expulsion once while towing, with no additional issues for several months until a heavy load is again towed. The system should be pressure tested by adapting a coolant tester to one of the hoses which connects to the top of the degas bottle, rather than testing the cap separately. This will allow the performance of the sealing surfaces between the cap and degas bottle to be tested, as well as testing for leaks throughout the rest of the system.
Torque-to-yield attempts to gain the maximum amount of clamping force from a bolt without damaging it, and attempts to provide a more consistent clamping force across all ten bolts.This is done by initially tightening the bolts to a low torque, then turning each of them by a certain uniform angle. As the bolts turn through this angle, the distance between the head of the bolt and the engine block changes a predictable amount due to the pitch of the bolt threads.
As the cylinder head expands and contracts, it can potentially increase the force on the bolt, causing it to stretch in a way that it will not recover from when the metal components cool.
The head bolts on the 6.0L are designed to provide a sufficient clamping force around the cylinders and combustion chambers so that the high combustion pressures produced by the turbo diesel under heavy loads cannot espace.
The head bolts are generally successful at providing this clamping force for a time, and some trucks have made it as far as 150,000 miles or more without a sign of head gasket leak. Many trucks experience this failure at significantly lower mileage, however, since the head bolts are simply not strong enough and do not have a large enough safety factor in the clamping force they are able to provide.  Engine Oil Cooler IssuesThe two most common failures of this cooler include clogging of the coolant passages and due to deposits, which form as a result of contaminated or unmaintained coolant, and internal leakage between the coolant and oil passages.
The first of these issues, clogging of the coolant passages, results in a higher than normal engine oil temperature.
The best way to prevent damage due to unnoticed engine oil cooler clogging is to have the vehicle maintained by a qualified repair facility that inspects engine oil operating temperatures regularly and is qualified to recognize signs of trouble, as well as performing cooling system flushes approximately every two years, depending on usage. This failure can lead to premature engine wear, fuel injector failure, and localized overheating of engine components.

Engine oil in the 6L is used not only as a lubricant but also as a high-pressure hydraulic fluid in fuel injector operation. Engine oil is also used as a method of cooling engine components such as pistons, adding to the threat of localized overheating. This localized overheating is typically not indicated by the engine coolant temperature gauge and may go unnoticed by the driver, increasing the importance of proper maintenance by a qualified facility. This new programs will better alert you to an overheating condition by changes in the temerature gauge if high engine oil temperatures are present.
This condition will also set a trouble code, and turn on the amber wrench light on the instrument cluster. The second of the common oil cooler failures, leakage between the coolant and oil passages, is more serious and can lead to severe engine damage. The best way to prevent this failure is to eliminate the stock engine oil cooler and replace it with a Bulletproof Engine Oil Cooler, which is an air-to-oil rather than coolant-to-oil cooler. This eliminates the possibility that oil will leak into the cooling system, since there is no longer a vulnerable connection between the two systems. The most apparent symptom of a leaking engine oil cooler is the presence of oil in the coolant expansion bottle, as well as a milky appearance and consistency of engine oil or coolant. Since engine oil is under greater pressure than engine coolant, more oil typically enters the cooling system than coolant enters the engine crankcase. This oil contamination can cause sludge to build up in the cooling system, reducing cooling to critical engine parts, leading to localized overheating and premature failure of these parts.
It is essential that possible head gasket leakage is ruled out if these symptoms are present, as eithercan be a sign of head gasket failure. The EGR Cooler uses engine coolant to cool exhaust gases which are reintroduced into the engine's intake to cool combustion temperatures and reduce nitrous oxide emissions.
The EGR Cooler commonly fails due to overheating and boiling of the coolant inside it, rupturing it and causing coolant to leak into the exhaust manifold. This overheating in the cooler is sometimes caused by low coolant flow to the cooler, since coolant must pass first through the stock engine oil coolerbefore it is delivered to the EGR cooler. As the engine oil cooler begins to clog, the EGR cooler is starved for coolant. If the cooler leaks while the engine is not running, coolant can enter engine cylinders through open exhaust valves. Attempting to start the engine after coolant has entered a cylinder can lead to hydrolocking, where the incompressible coolant in the cylinder stops the engine from turning.
The best way to prevent the head gasket failures that performance tuners contribute to is to preventively install ARP Head Studs and other upgrades. Performance tuners increase fuel delivery rates and Variable Geometry Turbo (VGT) operation, and many modify or eliminate EGR system operation as well.
All of these modifications increase combustion temperatures and pressures, which can contribute to localized overheating near the cylinder head gaskets, as well as place a higher stress on the sealing connection between the cylinder head, gasket, and engine block. Many owners have been extremely happy with the added performance and economy which these tuners provide. The upgrades and maintenance procedures related to head gasket failure recommended by Fleet Service Northwest, Inc. Installation of ARP Head Studs, on the other hand, is a necessary part of a proper head gasket replacement that has proven to be a long-term solution to 6.0L head gasket failure.
It is essential that machining of the cylinder head surfaces is performed when replacing head gaskets, despite Ford's stance that the heads cannot be machined. ARP Head Studs are made of a stronger steel, and torque tighter and are far less prone to stretching than stock head bolts. ARP head studs also engage fully into the threads in the engine block, reducing the stress and stretching of the threads which occurs while tightening the fasteners. This mounting location allows optimal cooling of engine oil without reducing the performance of the vehicle's air conditioning system. Installation of this cooler helps reduce engine oil temperatures, especially when towing heavy loads, and eliminates the recurring problems for which the stock engine oil cooler is notorious. The Bulletproof Engine Oil Cooler kit includes everything which is necessary to install the engine oil cooler, including the oil transfer block, and remote-mounted engine oil filter system. For 6.0L's which still have stock EGR coolers, installation of a Bulletproof EGR Cooler should be a mandatory part of head gasket replaement, or of any other service which requires removal of the intake manifold. The Bulletproof EGR Coolers for both engines feature lifetime warranties, and have already proven to be a great way to permanently solve an otherwise recurring problem with these engines. The Bulletproof coolers accomplish this through much more robust construction than the stock coolers, and by holding a higher volume of coolant, reducing the likelihood of coolant boiling within the cooler.
The economy of this service comes from the elimination of significant repeated labor which would be required if performing each of these upgrades separately. Replacing the EGR cooler and replacing or upgrading the engine oil cooler both require removal of the intake manifold. This is one important reason that we recommend trucks trucks receiving EGR and oil cooler replacement also receive and ARP Head Stud installation in combination with these repairs. It has been our experience that many trucks which experience stock EGR cooler failure, and do not receive ARP Head Stud installation at the same time, will experience head gasket failure in a short period of time following EGR cooler failure. This may be attributed to the EGR cooler failure itself, as described above, as well as to the general problem of 6.0L head gasket failure.
It is important to take all factors into account when considering replacing a truck, since even major repairs are usually a more economical choice. The biggest factor is of course the purchase price of a new or used truck compared to the trade-in value of a 6.0L-powered truck.
As mentioned before, the value of these trucks has depreciated due to their widespread problems, and the resulting desire of many owners to replace them with Duramax and Cummins-powered trucks, or other Ford trucks that matter, has helped keep the reslae value of these other trucks high. Add this to the fact that the Ford Super Duty chassis is more robust and more capable than any other chassis in the light truck market.
This means that the only reason to get rid of most 6.0L-powered trucks is because you are willing to pay more to have something different, or because you no longer need a truck and won't be replacing it.

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