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Category: How To Get Rid Of Mice | 13.03.2014
Bucket repurpose weblog 5-Gallon Ideas offers this design for a self-resetting mouse trap that can be either lethal or no-kill: Drill holes on opposite sides of the bucket and in the two flat sides of the can.
When I lived through a Mouse Plague in Horsham in 1985-1986 similar to this design won the "build a better mouse trap" competition - but the design was even more simplified; Just nail the plank to the side of the bucket, fill with water, and throw in a scrap of food straight into the water - no drilling or can or peanut butter. Good trap, but 'self resetting' is definitely a misnomer - self resetting would imply that the trap disposes of mice and re-peanut butters itself as required. Expert advice from Bob Vila, the most trusted name in home improvement, home remodeling, home repair, and DIY. If you want to get mice out of your house, but you don't necessarily want them dead, this easy-to-assemble (and kinder) mousetrap may be just what you need.
For your trap to be successful, the bucket must be large enough to contain the mouse once it’s been caught. If you’re trying to catch mice in a trafficked area like the kitchen, leave your trap overnight and check back in the morning. If the body of the mouse is dark brownish on the back and a silvery color on the stomach, then look at the head.  If the head has large bulging eyes and really big ears, you are probably looking at a Field Mouse. If the stomach is definitely white and you can see the tail is not all one color, you are probably looking at a Deer Mouse.
If the mouse appears to have half oval ears that sit fairly close to the head and a short hairy tail, you are probably looking at a Meadow Mouse. If the body of the mouse is reddish brown and the under-side is whitish, then look at the head.  If the eyes do not appear to protrude and the ears are relative to the head size, then you are probably looking at a Harvest Mouse. If the mouse appears to be all the same color and the length of its tail is about the same as the length of its body, then take a look at the head and feet.  If the head and feet appear to be proportional to the rest of the body, then you are probably looking at a House Mouse.


Look around your home for perfectly round circles chewed in bags, containers, walls or floorboards.  Your typical wild mouse can enter through a hole slightly smaller than a dime. Lastly pick up any debris piles in your yard that a mouse might use as cover when running from one location to another. A little mouse might look cute, but a female mouse is able to breed at about 6 weeks of age and in general will have around 7 to 10 litters of 5 to 7 pups a year.  As you can see an infestation of mice can happen very quickly and within a few months, you can literally be overran with mice.
There are several traps available for removing mice without injury and these traps can be purchased online or any hardware store.
Place the live traps under cabinets, behind furniture, in bedroom closets or utility closets where children and pets are less likely to disturb them.  If you do not have pets or young children, you would want to place the traps along well traveled walls.
Two nice inexpensive traps are the Tip Trap and the Victor live trap.  These are both relatively small traps and make for easy placement. These traps generally kill the immediately, however there are some like the glue boards where death is not as quickly administered. Just like live trapping, you want to place the traps where they will not be disturbed by children or pets.
You can purchase death traps at most stores, from the tried and true spring trap made by victor or any of the other brands you desire. Mice have a way of bringing out the evil in people and the do it yourself traps range from safe and effective to bizarre and extremely dangerous. Perhaps one of the most effective and safest traps I have seen is the bucket trap, which can be made to either live catch the rodent or kill it.  You can get directions for making it readily online and the assembly requires basically a drill, a coat hanger, a bucket and a soda can. I have seen DIY traps that fling the rodent into an object with such force as to kill it.  Ones that use a thin wire, which snare the animal and I even saw a guillotine mouse trap once and it appeared to be fully functional with the owner swearing that it was effective.


If you are set on using poison, there are several kinds on the market from bait traps to boxes you tear open.  Make sure you place them in a safe area where there is no possibility of an accident. Prior to handling any dead rodents or contaminated traps, you should put on a pair of rubber gloves.  Drop the mouse into a Ziploc bag and dispose of it and the gloves in the garbage. Any traps you desire to keep should be washed in a mixture of bleach and water.  Shake excess water off outside and allow trap to dry.
This means if you have lots of furry intruders you’ll need to have several traps or just build this version using a bucket, a soft drink can, a small piece of wood and a wooden dowel. Bait the trap by adding peanut butter to the beverage can and add a ramp for the mice to climb to the edge of the bucket. At this point, make sure that the can is able to spin easily, or else you’ll have a tightrope-walking mouse with peanut butter breath running around the place. Here’s a homemade mousetrap you can easily make out of items you probably already have on hand. When it’s time to set the mice free, go to a location sufficiently removed from where you live. By the time you arrive to set it free, the mouse may in fact still be enjoying the peanut butter!



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