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admin | Category: Male Dysfunction Treatment 2016 | 30.06.2014
The first signs of spring are starting to appear and It’s a wonderful time of year to watch your garden slowly creep back to life.
Finish off winter digging and check your compost!New and long-term plants will benefit greatly from fresh compost and feed. Add splashes of colour to your garden Brighten up your patio and steps with some cheery containers. Prepare for your veggies and herbs Start sewing extra early crops and cover the crop with a horticultural fleece.
Finish winter fruit pruning Prune your apple and pear trees in preparation for the year ahead. Even in the middle of winter, gardeners can plan for a bountiful harvest, and because February is the shortest winter month, spring is that much closer! Plan Your Garden: Take time to decide which plants you'd like to grow and how you will design your garden. Check Winter Sales: Many garden centers and nurseries offer great winter sales in February, cleaning out last year's stock of pots, containers and tools.
Prepare Your Tools: If you didn't have time last fall, February is a great time to be sure your tools are sharpened, oiled and repaired as needed so they are ready to go into action as soon as spring arrives. Start Slow Seeds: If you plan to add slow-growing plants to your garden, February is the time to start them indoors. Check for Garden Damage: Winter starts to fade in February, and it's the best time to check your garden for damage from snow, ice or winter wildlife. Prune Trees and Shrubs: Most trees and shrubs that bloom in June or later can safely be pruned in February so they have pleasing shapes and healthy forms for spring. Keep Up on Compost: There's never a time that you should call it quits with compost, and even in February it's important to turn the compost and adjust its content so it will be healthy and suitable for spring use. Despite being a short month in the midst of winter, February is a great time for certain gardening tasks that can help you be ready to dive into the dirt in spring without any wasted moments. Buy and plant container-grown snowdrops - add some compost to the soil plus a sprinkling of bonemeal and plant them slightly deeper than they were in the pot. Pot up lily bulbs to flower in early summer in barely moist compost and keep somewhere light and frost free.
Bring dahlias out of hibernation and pot them in compost singly or dormitory style in a tray!
Sow sweet peas under a cloche or in the greenhouse for a cheery reminder that spring is on the way. Brighten up a dull month with pansies, violas, primroses and heathers - pansies densely packed make for a truly striking display. If the weather really does turn dry, do remember pots and containers will need watering, especially if they are near a wall and in a sheltered position. Hellebores - or Lenten roses - in their many lovely colours will be opening from now on well into the spring.
Hostas - although there is no sign of these above ground yet it is not too early by the middle of the month to water liquid slug killer around them to deal with the pests which are down there waiting for spring. Many seed packs and websites suggest start sowing some seeds now – however, in many cases it’s wiser in the Peak District to hold on a little longer. February 1, 2016 By Wellie Leave a Comment Sweet peas are wonderfully cheery flowers to have.
If you have trouble with mice, you can pre-soak your seeds for up to 24 hours in liquid paraffin to deter the rodents. Once winter flowering heathers have finished, trim them back with shears to the base of flower stalks. Enter your email address to subscribe to this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email. In the spirit of practicing what I preach I set out to do a little pruning around the ‘ol homestead last week. I want my roses to produce lots of roses on a compact shrub and not just a few exhibition size blooms so I prune my shrubs moderately.
Heirlooms roses such as David Austin and other old antique garden roses require less pruning because their open look is part of their charm.
Pruning intimidates some gardeners but when you understand the reasons for making the cuts, pruning becomes less daunting. Given the strange weather we’ve had so far this winter I shouldn’t be surprised that many of the plants and trees are showing signs of life.
Seemed I had so much time to complete my winter-dormant season gardening chores a month ago.

In larger areas where I see this weed has germinated I can cut the taproot with a hoe or spade 1-2” below the surface.
I can also pull the seedlings while the soil is moist if they are growing next to or within a perennial or shrub.
I’ll also wait to prune back perennials that may have their new foliage damaged in a late frost. I won’t prune spring flowering shrubs and trees like lilacs, flowering cherries, plums and crabapples, rhododendrons, azaleas, camellias, weigela or spirea until after they flower.
The unusually warm January weather has made the early flowering trees and shrubs bloom even earlier this year. Due to our unusual weather some low-chill fruit tree varieties like Fuji apples, many apricots, peaches, nectarines and pears such as Comice and Seckel, might break bud and flower earlier because of the winter freeze and then warm weather. Prune woody shrubs  To stimulate lush new growth on plants like Mexican bush sage and artemisia cut them down to within a few inches of the ground. Cut back hydrangeas stems that bloomed last year if you haven’t already done so and apply a soil acidifier if you want the flowers blue.
Prune roses and rake up any debris beneath the plant to eliminate overwintering fungal spores.
Prune established perennials later in the month if you might get frost that could damage new foliage. Consider light levels, soil condition and your expertise and enthusiasm for a realistic plan. Onions, celery, pansies and petunias are just a few seeds that should be started very early for the best results.
Correct the damage as needed with emergency pruning, replacing mulch or making plans for spring changes.
Add the prunings to a brush pile for birds to take advantage of until spring leaves emerge.
Only increase watering if the compost dries out or you see shoots appear above the surface; lily bulbs rot easily in overly wet conditions. Once the ground is less sodden plant pots of flowering spring bulbs and primroses in empty gaps - a bit of a cheat, but who cares!
Trim off their old leaves, both to display the flowers better and to prevent the spread of disease. Do this again after a fortnight and again a fortnight later, and your hostas will have their best ever chance of not being devoured by their worst enemies by midsummer. Remove the oldest stems completely to encourage new growth, or cut it all down to 30-60cm to renew the plant.
The greenhouse may also harbour pests overwintering aphids, spider mites and disease spores – clean and scrub with an insecticidal disinfectant.
You can sow them in March but you’ll have better plants, with longer flowering stems, if you sow them now. These produce best show of flowers on wood made from spring onwards, so cutting them now encourages plenty of new growth.
Clean out existing bird boxes, or put up new ones, taking care not to position them close to feeding stations, as competition will usually prevent a nest box being successful. Since I cut back the hydrangeas pretty hard last year this time round I did only a bit of shaping.
My goal is to keep the center of the plant open for good air circulation aiming for a vase-shaped bush with an open center. Cut out extra stems if there are too many and also cut back long established canes to about the place where they are slightly thicker than a pencil.
I know those old leaves will spread fungus spores and possibly infect the new growth so I’ll patiently pluck them off. I see white blossoms on Flowering pears and the huge pink flowers of Saucer magnolia starting to open. But time has a way of getting away from you and now I need to do some of the more important tasks in the next few weeks. Hedge parsley can set flower umbels as early as late spring so I still have some time to get a handle on it before the dreaded spiny balls appear to ruin my clothes and the dog’s fur. If some still persist when the flower stalks start to lengthen but well before they have gone to seed, I’ll mow or weed wack them down. Right now I’ll concentrate on pruning roses, hydrangeas, fuchsias, fruit, nut and shade trees and deciduous vines like clematis.
Winter pruning is invigorating to fruit trees and there will be excessive vertical rebound growth, the witch’s broom-like riot of growth that emerges after a tree is given a haircut.

Plants that flower prematurely risk losing those flowers if night temps plunge but the long-term health of the plant probably won’t be affected. Coffee grounds, pine needles, peat moss and cottonseed meal are kind to your soil and the beneficial soil microorganisms.
Agapanthus, asters, coreopsis, daylilies, shasta daisy and liriope are plants that tend to become overcrowded and benefit from dividing.
Our helpful and knowledgeable staff can give you some great recommendations and design advice. The fuchsias haven’t gone totally dormant this year but as they bloom on new wood I cut them back by a third. I’ll cut out canes that cross, saving the better of the two, prune spindly and diseased stems and dead wood. If you have a huge climber this might not be possible and spraying with fungicide may be your only option if you’ve had disease problems in the past. Every time you cut a rose bloom to bring it indoors or deadhead a fading rose, prune the stem down to shape the plant at the same time. My Blireana flowering plum is covered with rosy buds ready to scent the garden with fragrance when they open. I’m not a “weekend warrior” type, preferring to enjoy working in my garden so I’ll just do a little here and there until I’ve gotten my list checked off.
I may have to do this a time or two but I’m determined that this noxious weed will not rule my life and prevent me from wandering on my hillside come fall. Cut back woody shrubs to stimulate lush new growth on plants like Mexican bush sage, artemisia and butterfly bush.
Combine your spray with lime-sulfur ( except on apricot trees ) or copper soap to kill fungal disease spores like the ones that cause peach-leaf curl. Like some fruit trees, their chilling requirements may have already been met, their buds are swelling and they’re ready to take off. Spray the stems and bare ground with a combination organic horticultural oil and a dormant spray.
This will cause the cane to flower along its complete length for a beautiful spring display. This mild weather signals the birds to eat as much as they can in preparation for the breeding season.
They stick to your socks, your shoelaces, your dog’s fur, your pants, your gardening gloves- anything that brushes against them and they are nearly impossible to remove.
The high pressure system that blocks our usual winter rains does not usually last more than 2-3 weeks even in the heart of the rainy season. A lot of the tree’s stored energy issued to produce all these unwanted branches, leaving much less for the production of fruit. It’s a good idea to spray the bare plant, coating the trunk, branches and twigs and the surrounding soil with a combination organic horticultural oil to smother overwintering insect eggs and a dormant spray like lime-sulfur or copper soap to kill fungus spores. Roses grow from the point where they are cut, so consider the overall shape of the plant as you snip.
The other morning an Anna’s hummingbird landed on the mulched ground to pick up a spider or insect. You won’t be able to know for sure, until perhaps early summer, if the freeze killed plants like Coprosma, Echium, Tibouchina or lantana so be patient. If you usually only have problems with black spot you can use a mixture of 1 teaspoon baking soda with a few drops of light horticultural oil in 1 quart water and spray every 7 to 10 days during the spring. Hummingbirds seek out small insects during the breeding season as they contain the protein needed to start a family. We can only hope the ridge breaks down in the next few months and brings us more than a smattering of rain here and there.  What should a gardener be doing in February?
When pruning, cut canes at a 45-degree angle just above an outward facing leaf bud or a swelling on the cane. Clean pruners after every use to prevent the spread of disease and keep your pruners sharp to make clean cuts.

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