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admin | Category: Ed Treatment Exercise | 20.01.2016
I know there are several posts on this topic but I did check them first and none got to my question, so here goes.
The dealer did reset the code and the light started flashing after I drove for a while, so it wasn't just a code reset. I have the 2004 service manual so the troubleshooting procedure without the dealership's Consult-II should be similar.
If you're able to complete the required steps and get the system in diagnostic mode, then the rest is simply observation. I didn't see one of Warhammer's questions before - the light has been blinking steadily since it started 3-4 weeks ago, except for its brief respite when they reset it. Looks like the 8 flashes is pointing to the bottom pattern on the picture I previously posted.
If you're seeing 8 flashes, this is pointing to an issue with the front drivers side airbag assembly.
I do actually think something is wrong with some part of the airbag BUT I do not think the entire thing needs to be replaced for $2300!
I'd suggest putting the system back into diagnostic mode again and follow the flashes really closely.
The Center for Auto Safety just made the NHTSA (US Government) make public the full text of all TSBs from now on. Whenever you drive in your car, you are safer thanks in part to a lot of work over the years by this small but very effective consumer advocacy group. Please take a moment & say thank you by donating $5 or whatever you can to the Center for Auto Safety. After having it in the shop just last week for a tranny problem now my hatch won't open, but my glass will but my glass is hard to close because it doesn't want to latch, and my dash fan won't work in 1 and 2.
The rear hatch started not opening at times, then would not open at all!The electric latch mechanism had failed and had to be replaced at the cost of $210.00 including labor.
Same problem as other user, rear hatch will not open on new Ford escape XLT, standard transmission. Find out what cars to avoid, view the latest problem trends, or keep up-to-date with the most recently reported problems. Link must be about this specific problem or it will be deleted — it must be free & helpful, like a video or web page or forum thread about this exact problem. I had to push start the behemoth (F250 4x4) a few times fooling around at stop lights and letting it stall out.

To your last point - I don't think I'm mechanically inclined enough to take the console apart without the service manual.
It looks like these guys will exchange a good working DSU for your non working DSU and some cash. Trouble shooting electrical issues takes time and airbags components does fail from time to time even if it was never deployed.
I agree with Nitely - you need to have the entire electrical system re-set (that was the first thing that came to mind) before you do anything expensive. I took it to my regular service place and the code it presented was not in their database, so they couldn't help. I think they're just taking advantage of an opportunity to stick me with a full replacement. Ford should have added a convenient "second" way of opening that back gate, some type of cable actuator behind or under something that you can pull if the electrical fails. The dealer indicated that it was our own fault for not properly cleaning the vehicle which is a crock as it is generally washed weekly. The complaints are organized into groups with data published by vehicle, vehicle component, and specific problem.
But after the 240 you drop to them maybe you can strike a deal, where the 240 will go to the fix. The dealer said it could be any of three things (um, don't remember what the three things were though) but that Nissan recommends they just replace all three - which total the entire drivers airbag system! On the fifth time, I realized 7 sec was too long on this car and I shortened it to six - it worked but I was so surprised it worked that I didn't count properly. It's probably just one of the components and I'm hoping that the 3 on 2 off pattern means something I can work with. Looked it up online apparenty I need a new actuator and seal because the seals go bad around the back window and water runs down into the actuator ruining it. Right now I just need part # PA6GF30 rear door hatch lock actuator made by Kiekert [Germany].
I called Nissan Consumer Affairs to see if they'd help with the repair since it's unbelievable (I think) that the car is having a major safety issue with less than 70K miles on it. Makes it hard now that this won't open, especially when trying to take in and out a dog kennel.

This is the same thing that other users have complained about, the actuator blows and you are left buying a $160.00 part. What galls me, is I found out from out local garage that Ford has issued a bulletin regarding this problem, but has not issued a recall, meaning the customer pays!!! It would be nice if companies who cleary are in the the wrong would step up to the plate and take care of their customers. EVEN THOUGH THERE IS A RECORD OF THE PROBLEM WITH FORD, THEY WILL NOT COVER THE REPAIR UNDER WARRANTY AS I AM 5,000 MILES OVER THE BUMPER TO BUMPER WARRANTY. I am lucky enough to be able to install it myself but I am sure most people also pony up for the mechanic fee which makes that $!60.00 part cost twice as much. At the same time (vehicle is just over 3 months old), I've twice taken it in because vehicle would not start. I'm afraid I don't understand the note above about previous diagnosis results or about erasing the memory.
Battery tested fine (I tested that independently) Their opinion was that if this didn't fix it I'd need the airbag replaced. If I go to another dealer, I'm wondering if their system will show that I already got this diagnosis at the other dealer and stand behind it. Called the dealership and they can't get me in until next week and will be anywhere from $60 - $120 to diagnose. Now, the other guys said I needed the controller and spiral cable but that they'd also do the air bag to be safe.
I still owe money to Ford Credit & I am thinking of stopping payments if they don't correct the problem. Is it possible that in conditions of rear hatch not unlocking, a relay remains open draining the battery. I have always bought Ford vehicules, but since Ford won't stand behind this car I am finished with them. Voltage to me says it's corroded or loose wiring to the equipment, not the equipment itself. I hate to pay another $120 to have someone seek out a wiring issue and be no further ahead.

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