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Jack O’ Lanterns are one of the most popular Halloween photo subjects, and these present several challenges and several different methods for creating a cool image. It’s also a great time of year to throw so many of the hard and fast guidelines of photography aside and have some fun by breaking some rules, and employing some cool photo tricks to make Halloween photos that’ll turn some heads. If there’s two thing your average Jack O’Lantern likes less than squirrels, it is direct flash and program modes on digital cameras! And even if you dial back the Flash Exposure Compensation as far as you can (-3, in this example), that’s still not going to give a proper internally lit feel to the Jack O’ Lantern–just an underexposed variant of the above shot. If you don’t have a tripod, try cranking up the ISO and using a little fill-flash and a shutter speed that’s pushing the envelope of Optical Stabilization. All in all, a tripod is the best way to go to ensure there’s no camera movement during the exposures, which can get very long at times–upwards of way beyond several second in many cases, depending on the look and feel you’re going for. Overall, the best advice is to experiment, review, and adjust your overall exposures for the look and feel you’re going for.
Like their hollowed-out brethren, painted and otherwise non-carved pumpkins also do best with indirect light. Here’s a composition of decorative pumpkins and gourds in a studio setting made with the Sigma DP2 Merrill. Halloween is a great time of year to try some trick photography techniques, both on the computer, and in-camera. Pretty much every camera and lens combo out there can be used for creating this special drag-flash ghost effect. Again, this is a type of photography that is going to require a good deal of trial and error. Stop down the aperture, if necessary, to make sure the background is a bit underexposed at the chosen shutter speed. I was going for a “got caught sneaking up on the photographer” expression here in this image.
And again, don’t get discourage if the first or second shot you attempt like this isn’t perfect. Now here is a double-exposure trick image showing what’s apparently a ghost going about its normal day-to-day activities outside this ramshackle house on Officer’s Row on Sandy Hook, quite oblivious to the non-ghost photographer snapping a photo of these decaying structures with a Sigma DP2 Merrill.
There’s also a very easy way to make ghostly images in pretty much every video editing program that supports layers, such as Adobe Photoshop Elements, or Photoshop CS6. Make sure both exposures are identical in terms of exposure; Manual exposure mode is best for ensuring that the metering doesn’t change between frames.
As you can see, these two frames are nearly identical, except in one frame, I’m walking away from these creaky stairs.
Now, in Adobe Camera RAW, we are selecting both these JPGs from the Sigma DP2 Merrill and converting them to grayscale to make sure all image settings are identical.
Look at the top layer, and the only area there’s still pixels is around the “ghost.” This helps keep the seamlessness of this effect going by not having minor unwanted variations issues like blowing leaves and shadow length between the two source frames. In photography, a little bit of an effect usually feels accidental or sloppy, for example, if you skew the horizon a touch, or have most of the  verticals in a house just off a good clean line, it looks like a mistake. Here’s taking that “a little looks accidental but a lot looks intentional” effect to another level. Here’s one more example where the ultrawide effect is used to create an unsettled feeling, and the bold colors possible with HDRI images are used to intensify the feel of this shot.

Our line of fast primes for both DSLRs and compact mirrorless cameras and constant aperture zooms are great get getting faster shutter speeds in low light for both still and video clips. Twilight is a great time to try to capture decorated houses, as there’s a short window of time when the overall perfect exposures for both the natural and artificial light overlaps. Shooting from ground level as your trick or treaters walk down the sidewalk can give great leading lines, long shadows and a dramatic fall backdrop as the sun gets low in the sky in late afternoon.
Jack Howard is Sigma Corporation of America’s New Media Specialist, where he blogs, builds community, and shares his passion for photography with loyal and future Sigma customers every day. I like how you have detailed how and why in the descriptions, its great I will give some of them a try. Between the Jack O’Lanterns, people of all ages in silly or scary costumes, and haunted houses, there’s something great to shoot pretty much everywhere you turn.
In this blog posting, we’re going to have some fun and give you some ideas on how to capture the spirit of the season. Even with a big candle, you’re still talking about employing candlelight for the main light source in most carved pumpkin images. This was shot in RAW mode in the Rebel T3i, and the overall exposure was pulled back to center from mild overexposure. Some may prefer the pure blackness of the first image, some may love the glowing whites and oranges of the above image and many may fall somewhere in between with good glow and deeper shadow tones.  But be sure to study the exposures, adjust, and check again to make sure the raw files are going to give you what you want. The rounded, semi-reflected shapes of these orange squash just never look right in hard direct light. Two studio lights are aimed at the backdrop to give wraparound lighting to the pumpkins for good deep orange and greentones and rich definition of their depths and contours. Let’s look at two ways to turn your friends and family into ghostly apparitions for your Halloween memories, starting with the in-camera method first. This will make the frozen segment of the exposure come at the end of the shot rather than the beginning. Notice how the ghostly trail leads from back right to front left, so there’s not a lot of overlap against the dark background.
For this one, the subject is in the midst of reacting to the ghost that it is evidently in the midst of transforming to. Keep reading for the low-down on how to quickly and easily make your own ghostly portraits by combining two or more frames!
All you’ve got to do is make two identical frames, one with the person, and one without, and combine the shots into a single layered image.
The most important thing is that both frames are as  synced up as possible through every step of the process. The most important thing is that both frames are as synced up as possible through every step of the process.
Make sure the subject layer is atop the blank layer, and adjust the opacity to a level that works to give a good sense of transparency overall, somewhere between 40-65% should work well.
Layer>Flatten Image completes the process, then it’s a simple matter of saving as a JPG and printing or sharing your own ghostly images! And shooting at a low angle to make the verticals of the house in the background fall seriously away, which adds tension to the image.
Generally, it’s a good idea to get down to eye level for photos of people, so for kids, this usually means kneeling down on the ground so you’re shooting from their height and view on the world.

Normally with architecture, you’d want to ensure that there’s some visual anchoring of the structure, but here, for Halloween, we’ve anchored the small pumpkins in the foreground and seriously skewed the house. This involves “writing” on the sensor of the camera with a flashlight during a long exposure.
Stopping down the F16 for a 13 second exposure at ISO 100 minimized ambient light and gave me the time to draw out the pumpkin. If there’s absolutely no chance of using a tripod for a very long exposure, you may get lucky by combining Optical Stabilizer, a higher ISO, and some fill-flash from a shoe-mount flash, dialed back, with the diffuser panel lowered. Pushing up to a higher ISO makes it tougher to pull the exposures, especially the shadows, which can get very noisy. Then we cranked up the luminance values for orange to really bring the glow to another level. Bounce a strobe off a ceiling, use a diffuser, pretty much do anything but use direct flash for pumpkins whenever you can! It is very helpful to have a light source apart from the flash to help light the motion segment of the image, too.
And Halloween is a great time to create some tension by having buildings fall away or really taking advantage of ultrawide stretch for fun and freaky results!
And there’s one more trick to point out in this image: we set our exposure to ensure blue sky and detail in the house and used high-speed sync to light the foreground subject.
But here, we take the ultrawide effect to an even weirder extreme for an unusual Halloween portrait. Day or night, HDRI or single exposure, this wide-angle effect can be used at Halloween to bring an extra degree of tension and creepiness to a decorated house. Use the Flashlight to help determine focal distance, then switch to manual focus mode to try this out. We were able to really pull up the shadow tones and keep them clean because we shot at a low ISO. It can be a floodlight, or a wide-beam flashlight, but something to give a little light helps. And I converted to grayscale, because sometimes ghostly images just feel best in black and white.
First, we select the entire layer, then subtract a loose hand-drawn loop around the subject. The Sigma 8-16mm lens is set to 8mm and is inches from my forehead, at eye level, but pointed seriously downwards.
In the higher ISO shots like the lead photo, doing this would lead to horrible noise in the end image.
While you’d probably never want to use this effect during a wedding, for for Halloween, it can work. And of course, the wider the lens, and the closer the subject, the more intense the effect.

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