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Via email, text message, or notification as you wait on our site.Ask follow up questions if you need to. Tory Johnson, GMA Workplace Contributor, discusses work-from-home jobs, such as JustAnswer in which verified Experts answer people’s questions. In this guide, I will explain how to remove the standard stereo from a Ford Focus MK2 – This also includes the Ford Focus ST MK2. James Simpson University Graduate from Teesside, currently residing in the big city of Newcastle-Upon-Tyne. I removed my stereo and fitted a auxiliary device into the back of the main harness plug (black square box) that plugs into the back of the stereo unit.
My issue is removing the device I fitted, the release switch at the very side of the small black box I fitted moves it a bit but won’t seem to come out. If I try to move it any further, it feels like the wires might just detach which will leave the smaller box (aux device) stuck in the mains (big black box at rear of stereo unit). Usually you need a small flat head screw driver which you can then push the clip in on the side of the harness plug – sometimes its easier to slide the little flat head down the side between the harness plug and the connector, allowing you to pull on the wires to release the connector plug.
Do I need to remove the stereo first if I want to remove the silver trimming around the stereo and heating dials?
If you have the pre-facelift Focus (stereo is the same in the picture), then yes you will need to remove the stereo first, as there are two retaining screws behind that hold the fascia in place.
The Mk2 Facelift on the other hand, the fascia comes off first before the stereo can be removed. I have got a Ford Focus Ghia 2006 with an Aux port but I am unable to use it, a friend said the port is inside the glove compartment I checked but no port inside.
I can confirm mine does have pin 11 in place, mine is the ST3 with keyless, so this may be the reason this was fitted as standard. Hi james ive got a 2006 ford focus with an cd 6000 the problem is i can only pick up a few fm channels and no mw channels at all, I know the cd 6000 works properly as ive checked it in another veihcle, i also cleaned the earth which runs from the battery to the chassis of the car but this had no effect. Although a trip to the seaside sounds inviting I’m in Brentwood Essex so a bit of a hike. I was tempted to go the Ebay route but there are so many faulty 6000CD units out there I didn’t want to take the chance.
The small plugs at the bottom do slide out, but you have to remove the main quadlock plug first.
You can fit the DAB one no issues, although to get DAB to work you’ll need some extra parts to be fitted. If you put the other three in the correct way, you can sometimes wiggle the keys to get the stereo out.
If you have a spare removal tool, or something thin but strong to put under the removal tool to pull the pin in that can work.
Thank you for the above, I have recently bought a new double din stereo and am having trouble removing all the cables from the quad core unit, are they all meant to be removed or are some fastened in there permanently? Most of the cables aren’t meant to be removed, the only parts that come out easily are the aux parts.
Secondly are the speakers front and rear all coaxial and what size are they front and rear ? My plan is to install it in my 91 mustang, Im not 100% sure im going to use it cuz its a little bigger then i need. I tried looks through the forum for the diagram but every thread i looked at, no one seemed to post a link.
Hmm I might have one somewhere, can you wait until later today to get a copy of one or do you need it like now?
Does any one know where i can buy factory spade conectors that are for the fuse box, i know there not normal spade conectors cuz they need to be able to lock them selves in to the housing of the fuse box. No, that looks like the interior fuse box, i need the one for under the hood, but to tell you the truth i found some thing that told be what each fuses was for.
Here's what happened, about 6 months ago, truck was driving just fine down the highway at about 60 mph, and all the sudden it just dies.
So what I tried it pulling out the other relays and fuses and one by one re-inserting until I got another blown PCM fuse.
If you have a multimeter check and your blowing fuse for continuity(ohms of resistance) to ground, check the harness from fuse block to EEC for rubbed through ect.
Typically, it would seem the easiest way to get oriented on tracking down a wiring short is to get a schematic of the truck. It would entail pulling the negative cable off the battery, and systematically going through the circuit with a meter, searching for a ground.


AlvinC answered a question about my Ford truck that only someone with an in-depth knowledge of his subject would have known what was going on. Because of your expertise, you armed me with enough ammunition to win the battle with the dealer.
I do know, after going though this with JustAnswer, that I can somewhat trust my mechanic but I will always contact you prior to going there.
I would (and have) recommend your site to others I was quite satisfied with the quality of the information received, the professional with whom I interacted, and the quick response time.
Quickly and easily install a 4-way trailer connector on your vehicle with this custom wiring harness.
Today we're going to be taking a look at the tow ready T-One vehicle wiring harness with a 4-pole flat trailer connector.
You do not have to worry about cutting or splicing any wires for the complete installation. I was readying my Town and Country Mini Van for a move to Washington State and need a trailer wiring harness. Contrary to instructions, it is possible to route the plug outside the vehicle through an access hole in the floor, down around the donut tire to the hitch. I would like to see the mfg add about 6-12" length to that section of wiring to make it just a touch easier to route to the outside if desired.
I have a 2003 durango first time I ordered from this company was a little reluctant to install myself but the video was very good on you tube and was happy with the way it came out glad I decided to do myself and not go to a trailer company again. With the help of your installation video, this wiring harness took me about 15 minutes to install on my son's 2002 Dodge Durango (would have taken less but had trouble getting the dirty existing connectors apart). The T-One wiring harness part# 118334 for my 2001 Dodge Durango was easy to install and is exacty what I needed to hook up lights to my trailer and it works perfectly.
Went to wire in a flat 4 pin connector (old school) on a Dodge Durango and the tail, turn, and brake light wires are separate wires.
T-Harness Fitment Harness hook-up was pretty simple, but the wires from left tail light to junction box were too short to locate inside jack storage box as directed. It is nice to know that this service is here for people like myself, who need answers fast and are not sure who to consult. I liked that I could ask additional questions and get answered in a very short turn around. Not only did you answer my questions, you even took it a step further with replying with more pertinent information I needed to know.
All the wires you need are behind the stereo, no need to find an ignition or 12v feed, everything should be plug and play. Interests in the automotive industry and technology, and blogging about things which I feel would interest the readers of the world wide web. I would like to have a 6 CD player (6 CD unit under a seat) as I had in my 2000 ford Focus please advise. Got the stereo out and noticed that the reverse gear line (and speed sensing) is missing from the quadlock block. As you’ll see from my previous posts the lever on the quadlock snapped but after removing the broken pieces from the hinges the plug pulled out easily. No problem getting the unit out of the enclosure but I’m unable to remove the multi cable plug. I’ve been trying to work out if all the indervidual small plugs come out together or you have to pull out each one at a time. Once removed, you get a small flat head screwdriver to push the pins of the small blocks (stalk controls and aux input blocks) to slide them out.
Went to a Ford dealer and he said have to take off the whole dash…please tell me No!!!
Or if you pull hard on the other removal tools it will come out but will bend the pin (which you can bend back into shape) that will save the dash being removed. You shouldn’t need to remove any cables though as adapters are available to fit any aftermarket stereo.
It sounds like that circuit has rubbed through and is dead short to ground or something in the EEC has failed. T-One connector plugs directly into existing wiring - no cutting, splicing or tapping required. You will have to remove the tail light assemblies to access this harness.Once installation is complete, the 4-way flat connector will be stowed either in the jack storage compartment of your rear cargo area or beneath your vehicle, near the trailer hitch. This product is going to fit your 1996 to 2000 Dodge Caravan, Grand Caravan, Plymouth Voyager, Grand Voyager, and Chrysler Town and Country.


The minivan instructions are silent on how to route the wire connecting the left- and right-side tail light connectors.
Takes a slight modification to the hole followed by replacing the rubber plug followed by some sealer. The "Hopkins Quick-Install Trailer Connector Adapter 4-way flat to 7 blade HM47200" and the "T-1 Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4 Pole Flat Trailer Connector 118334" were the perfect combination for the quick, simple and successful installation on my 2001 Dodge Durango. The instructions available at the website (and included with the part) were complete and concise.
This is a must have product to properly wire in separate turn and brake lights wires into one wire connection on the flat 4 pin and maintain use of both lights.
Wiring harness installation was absolutely painless, especially because of their YouTube video tutorial. The stereo below is the base stereo, but there are different options available (Sony and Satellite Navigation upgrades). You can remove the interior light, and you’ll see the bolt holding the ariel to the roof of the car.
The radio capacitor that hooks on one of the small wire connections on the coil had gone bad. I had expected to go under or through the frame, but saw no way to do this, and the instructions did not help. Along with the great products "etrailer" provided helpful information on their website, and fast shipping! The DRIVERS side easy as pie was able to do in 15 minuets it just like the instructions stated.
Barely reach inside rear "door" to attach on molded plastic trim without getting hit by "door" when it closes. My engine had quit and as soon as I put that fuse in and turn the ignition switch on the fuse would blow, I could hear the fuel pump run for a SPLIT second just before the fuse would blow. Because most trailers run on a two-wire system - wherein the brake and turn signals are carried on one wire - the separate brake and turn signals from your vehicle's three-wire system need to be combined so they are compatible with the wiring system of your trailer.
It's going to give you that 4-way flat trailer connector at the back of your vehicle to power your trailer signal lights.
All you've got to do is peel that double-sided tape off, peel that adhesive backing off of the double-sided tape, and then stick it to a nice clean surface. I finally decided just to route the wire inside the lower part of the hatch opening, around the outer edge of the weatherseal. The tail light converter combines the brake and turn signal functions of your automobile so that they run on one wire to properly activate your trailer's tail lights. Once you have those plugged in, you can secure any excess wire that you want or any slack that you may have with the included zip ties. They do recommend locating it maybe in your spare tire compartment or another out of the way area.
I then pulled the slack out of it to draw it against the metal lip that holds the weatherseal. We have planned the trip for next week so I can not give a review on performance as of yet. Out of the whole harness that I spent $39.94 on, I ended up cutting of the connector protector cap and using it on my new one. Not a hard deal but might be daunting to a car newbie figuring out how to R&R interior molding and panels.
Seat temperature is maintained until switched off, the ignition is turned off or a fault is detected by the heated seat module. We're always going to recommend that you use a small amount of dielectric grease on all electrical connections to prevent any type of corrosion from being able to settle in. Does either heated seat operate?YesFor inoperative passenger seat only, GO to Pinpoint Test O. WARNING: Make sure no one is in the vehicle and there is nothing blocking or placed in front of any air bag module when the battery is connected.
Failure to follow these instructions may result in serious personal injury in the event of an accidental deployment. CONNECT driver seat safety belt buckle pretensioner C3065 and passenger seat safety belt buckle pretensioner C3066.



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