|In May we made our
long-awaited trip to Croatia - specifically the Dalmatian coast.
The first week of this trip was on our own, primarily in Dubrovnik with
a day trip to Mostar (or Moctap,
in Bosnia-Herzegovina); the second week we were with VBT (aka Vermont
Bicycle Tours) cycling on the islands of Brač and Hvar, just off the
coast from Split. Robert had been here some 30 years earlier; we
would have liked to have visited about 20 years ago, when Croatia was
still part of Yugoslavia, but the war in the region nixed those
plans. Sooner or later we knew we'd get here, among other things
to see where Liza's dad's parents were from (Selca, Brač)...so when we
saw VBT had a cycling tour *on* Brač, we were in!
Can't say enough good things about this trip. The scenery was spectacular, the people were warm and friendly (Rick Steves has it all wrong on that score!), we were there in advance of peak tourist season so it wasn't overrun. The cycling on the islands was not too difficult, the weather generally warm and pleasant, and everywhere there were aromas of citrus, lavender, sage. While the VBT route didn't go to Selca specifically - it is on the east end of Brač and we were generally over in the west - the tour leaders Milan and Marko were extremely accommodating, with Milan driving us over there with the bikes so we could visit then cycle back. We enjoyed the food - much seafood, but also marvelous lamb and ćevapčići (sausage - a Balkan specialty), the wine (plavac, plavac mali, malvazija), and the liqueurs (especially the walnut orahovac and herbal travarica). Šljìvovica, not so much - is actually Slovenian.
Worth noting that Brač is known for its fine stone (some used in the White House); the photo at right shows several stone pieces we brought back, as well as Liza's toy boat christened "Supetar" (aka San Pedro / St Peter in Croatian) (click to enlarge).
This page is the "home"; see the links below for photo pages for Dubrovnik, Mostar, Split, Brač, Hvar. Click the map on the left for a larger version.
Daily routes (pdf)
Liza's trip journal