Wood Stain Over Dye,Tool Storage Plans,Wooden Dish Rack Wall Mounted - New On 2016

I'm guessing you're trying to get more color from the stain, and that's why you're leaving it sit for a while before you wipe it off. Dye does a great job on oak; you can get it as dark as you want and it will color the wood evenly (no blotching). Just to give you an idea, the piece of red oak in the picture has dye on the far left, stain on the far right, and both dye and stain in the middle. Some stains contain a binder, and it can be added in the colorant as it is being ground, in other cases it can be added with the solvent. There is absolutely nothing wrong with using pigmented wiping stains, they may not be as transparent as the dyes, but they certainly have excellent clarity if the stains are wiped dry.
If you are wiping or brushing on the water base over the oil stain, a sprayed on sealer or shellac will lock in the stain, before the brushed or wiped on WB coating. If you have a question regarding a Knowledge Base article, your best chance at uncovering an answer is to search the entire Knowledge Base for related articles or to post your question at the appropriate WOODWEB Forum. If you just want to bring out the natural color and figure in the wood, then a coat of shellac on the bare wood followed by your water-base finish will work fine. A light to medium strength WB dye and clear on top (maybe tinted just a little) is all you need.
No matter what solvent they're reduced in, dyes leave the pores looking white often enough that I always use a stain or glaze over the dye when I'm working with oak.
I have used the liquid Transtint dyes on several QSWO projects followed with 2-3 coats of a wipe on finish. Swizzle sticks and dowels, all match when primed white gesso and stained with Dyn-a-flow after assembly. If so, you have a couple options that will work a lot better; you can dye the wood and then stain it, or dye the wood and then glaze it.
Back in the day when I was brushing my finishes, if I would over brush an area it would pull some stain out. The stain is a Pittsburgh Paint product called Rez Stain and the topcoat is Olympic water base polyurethane. Dilute your dye by 1 quarter to 3 quarters water, dye the wood, base coat, sand, dye with the same water, wipe the dye after sanding, base coat, dye and then top coat. The dye color works well with the wood and there's very little contrast with the pores (the dye is nearly the same color as the pores). I was thinking a light stain, maybe even mixing some transtint dye into Sealcoat shellac and spraying it.
The real key is knowing why a dye is desirable in the first place, rather than just using a stain.
Even applying water to raise grain did not eliminate the raised grain from applying the water soluble dye, 3.
Stain tends to create a bland look on figured wood, while dye gives the surface an attractive undulating appearance. Dye, however, dissolves completely in its solvent, goes wherever the solvent can penetrate, and actually changes the color of wood cells. The stain should be one that is suitable to the species of your wood floor and one that applies easily to a large wood floor surface. Use a rag to apply this stain, as you will be flooding the surface with the stain and then working the stain into the pores of the wood and any cracks.
This type of pigmented stain is applied in long strips with the run of the floorboards just as wide as you can comfortably reach. The trick with this stain is to wipe vigorously enough to even the color out, but not too much or the wet pigment particles will be wiped out too. Test the adhesion of any stain and finish combination by letting the finish cure (on a sample) for 2-4 weeks, then cross hatch it with a razor knife to the bare wood. You can use a rag to sponge on a lot of this dye stain, and because it dries slowly you should have plenty of time to wipe, but this would be a good place for an assistant. Lots of people ask me about white stains, and complain that they have trouble getting the white color to take into a wood like oak. Another more tricky way to white stain a hardwood floor is to sponge the wood with distilled water, and let it dry overnight. Lastly we get to the Ebonizing floor stain, which has been vexing wood workers and floor mechanics for years. An easy solution for a new floor installation is to go with black pigment stained prefinished hardwood. But if it is an older floor or if you object to the harsh light reflective qualities of prefinished floors, you must use a black dye stain for sure on all woods to create an even color. If you can find a good NGR black stain you may be able to do the staining with one product.
I did a custom white stained oak floor for a customer, only to be called back in 4 years to resand the floor, and this time apply a dark walnut pigmented stain to the floor. Quilted maple and other figured woods gain depth as well as brilliant color when you choose this type of stain. Some stains contain both dye and pigment, but the combination doesn't solve the problems presented by dense woods.
The process I am using is I sand the plywood with a random orbit sander and 150 grit paper, apply the stain pretty heavily, allow it to dry for a time, and then wipe it off with a clean rag.

Today, most wiping stains are listed as oil stains, and they do not use oil, they use an oily solvent. As Contributor P mentioned, wiping stains must be wiped on, then wiped off and allowed to dry.
It may increase it, because now you have created a sealed surface where the stain has no ability to bite in. The glaze colors the pores and adds contrast to the dye color which makes the rays and flecks "pop" even more than the dye alone. Mix waterproof India Ink with Isopropyl Rubbing alcohol until it produces this stain on a paper towel. An alternative is to use a coat of oil-base varnish in place of the shellac, let it dry overnight and then topcoat.
Pure pigment stains only partially penetrate the wood, doing most of their coloring by lodging in tiny surface cracks and pores. With oak, a little elbow grease and patience always gets the dye down in those pores for me. The difference really stands out when you dye dense wood that doesn't accept stain well or figured wood, such as curly maple. By design, they are meant to leave a thin coating on the surface and to impart color to the pours of the wood. You can also apply multiple coats of the same stain, making sure to wait until the previous coat has dried. If it is not dry the paint will leach into the stain and it will be essentially grey paint. I will talk about what type of stains to use on particular woods, and the best methods to apply them.
If you have a maple, birch, or beech floor for example you will find the pigment stain tends to make the wood blotchy.
Some wood workers sponge the wood with distilled water before they use the dye, but be aware of using too much water on a wood floor. It’s also called a bitumen or glisonite stain, and is basically a heavy petroleum product. You will then find all the pores of the wood open and willing to accept even the lightest colored white stain. This will help the white stain pigments lodge in the wood better, but won’t be as smooth.
Be prepared to stain the wood with dye stains several times to achieve the blackness you want.
I cite the fact that my time is expensive, and results on a sample board may not be as easy or even possible to achieve given the mechanics of controlling a stain on a large floor area.
The pieces dry for about 3 days, but when I go to apply a water-based polyurethane the stain will pull off some sections of the plywood.
But dye doesn't color the pores that well (or not at all), and using a wiping stain or glaze after the dye colors the pores and adds more color overall. Kilz2 Latex has a rougher, flatter finish and takes the Rit Liquid dye and Dye-na-flow better.
The tunnel portal is wood timbers and styrene sheet primered with Kilz2 acrylic primer and stained with Dye-na-flow fabric paint. Gel stains are thicker than standard stains and form a film on the surface with very little penetration. And if you know what you're doing and mix your own dye colors, those rich colors and looks can be achieved without the extra steps.
I will also talk about the dreaded white pigmented stain, dye stains, and ebonizing wood floors. In the case of parquetry try to start your first row of staining so that it points toward a large window. Some of the darker stains like the Dura Seal brand contain a lot of pigment, but a lot of binder.
Dye stains are very similar to fabric dyes (and yes you can use Rit Dye stains to dye wood) in that they both contain particles that are so small that they enter the wood surface itself. These woods have such a variable density that they will turn quite muddy and blotchy if you try to use a pigment or dye stain. The sanding process has to have gone well, but in this case don’t spend too much time polishing the wood with the buffer. You can also mix these stains with a red mahogany color to achieve a pinkish wash to the floor, or even a universal tint of blue or green. And I mean an even and deep tone of black, showing the wood grain and having the early and late wood (of a ring porous wood like oak or ash) come out with almost equal tones. But don’t over do it or you will have a floor so black you might as well have painted it.
And instead of white staining it, apply the catalyzed water based finishes I mentioned above. Most wiping stains are designed to color the surface of the wood, more than penetrate into them. If the shellac seal coat doesn't work, I may be back looking for suggestions on how to strip the piece so I can start over again.

A Bachmann On30 plastic flatcar painted with flat white acrylic craft paint and stained with black Dye-na-flow fabric paint.
They contain a small amount of pigment, which is carried along by the large amount of solvent in these stains. The solvent in the stain will tend to remove the pigment particles when you try to touch up a small area.
This will make it easier to achieve the darker richer colors, but you must wait 24-72 hours for this type of stain to fully dry. I describe the locally made stain I use in my article on the use of oil modified polyurethane. The NGR dye stains are even a bit less colorfast than the water soluble one, but both will fade remarkably in 5-10 years, when exposed to light.
Gel stain is thick like ketchup, but once you wipe them they flow quite well on the wood surface. The added dark pigment (don’t use too much) will make the stain easier to use, and the white wash color you were expecting will come though.
A blue-black fungus may show up in red or white oak overnight, if the wood has dried too slowly.
So in this case you will have to go over the floor again (after the water based dye stain has had 12 - 20 hours of drying) with a black pigmented stain to color the pores evenly.
Some NGR stains contain lots of alcohol or lacquer thinner, so they may be unsuited and dangerous for large areas. This will give you the white but woody look you may like after all, without the mess and fuss of staining. Go over the whole floor at least twice, and don't forget the corners and edges should be done with a crevice attachment. If the stain binder is not fully dry it may then interfere with the polyurethane that you apply on top of it.
The early morning light may not be so flattering to some stain colors as you may think, so let your customer decide.
But the key here is to mix a stronger color or even a different color for the next coat of dye. You may find that some of the lighter colors may be suitable for using on nonporous woods like maple. These are visible as little black dots all over the floor, and can only be removed with a fine sanding, defeating the whole sponging exercise. They tend to not be as clear as the water based dyes, and are less color fast in some cases. These fussy stains will keep us floor mechanics employed expensively for many years to come. The glaze is a darker brown and the point was to accent the pores and make the rays and flecks really stand out.
Dye stains come in water soluble powders (which makes for a very grain risen floor) and NGR type stains already mixed.
Otherwise try the Bona Kemi brand wood stains or the Dura Seal pastel white, these are what most pros try to use anyway. The NGR (non grain rising) wood stains contain alcohol or lacquer thinner solvents and are really dangerous to use on large floors. When these stains dry they seem to fade, but the true color will come back when you apply the floor finish.
But this sort of stain can also be successfully and easily used on maple, birch and beech, but only in the lightest colors. You can mix small amounts of dye stain using a drinking straw to hold a measured amount of water, and an accurate scale to weigh a small amount of stain. When the stain is dry the binder will keep the pigment particles (being dust-like if they dried on their own) from being wiped from the pores.
This is no place to be trying out a new stain brand, practice on a group of hardwood boards held together by a clamp. A company that supplies stains and finishes to your local furniture trade is the best source. Minwax is the thinnest, Flecto is medium and Wood-Kote and Bartley’s are the thickest. This finish itself will tend to give the wood a yellow cast so be sure to do a sample using this finish on it before you commit yourself to a final color of the finished floor. Another important factor with water based dye stains is that water based finished applied to them will make the dye run.
If you wish to use water based dye stain, use an oil-based poly, lacquer or shellac finish on top of it.
Cherry is good candidate for a gel stain, especially if you have installed a low grade of cherry with all those light colored boards. But if you want to use water based finish for the topcoats, you must use a NGR or oil based dye stain to color the wood.

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