Hunter fan lights don't work 2014,where to buy a bladeless fan,zexal fanservice video - Step 2

To post questions, help other DIYers and reduce advertising (like the one on your left), join our DIY community. Clearly, power is getting to the unit because the fan works fine but neither the wall switch nor remote can control the fan anymore. So let's not just focus on the remote and battery issues because you are missing the point entirely.
I understand that you're feeling frustrated, but I'm not sure why you posted a question here if you're not willing to engage in a conversation that's intended to help you find an answer. I only tried the remote for the first time in years after the wall switch signals were not being received by the unit. Would you expect it to be in good condition to work, with sufficient battery power, if it hasn't been used in years? The hardwire wall switch is not working at all though it is receiving power (green light is on) and the fan is receiving power because I can use the fan through the pull change switch. That was clear to us from your original post, and we went straight to asking questions about that.
If you would like to continue diagnosing why that system appears to have stopped functioning, we'll be here.
So, is the problem tending more toward the receivers in the base or the wall switching unit? You've asked me a lot of questions and provided me with more operation about parts of the unit and what they do. Based on all the information provided, what do you feel is the most likely problem here and what would it take to fix it?
I know I?m jumping in kinda late on this, and you may already have your problem fixed one way or another, but. If you have two hot legs from the wall switch, you will also have two hot legs to the unit from the ceiling, one for fan, one for lights. Whether wired with two hot legs from switch to unit, or a single hot leg to the unit, every ceiling fan, with lights, that I have seen has two pull switches, one for the lights and one for the fan.

If you have power to the hot leg that connects to the light pull switch, but no lights, then my money will go to a bad light pull switch, a generic one cost?s maybe a buck ninety five plus tax.
If you have no power to the hot leg of the light pull switch itself, then I would check the hot leg that goes to the light circuit from the wall switch, and see if you have power on the hot side with the switch off and on both sides with the switch on.
If no power shows at each side of the wall light switch with the switch turned on, then my money goes to a bad wall switch. If you have no power at the hot leg of the light pull switch, and power at the component side of the wall light switch with that switch turned on, then you might need to get up on your ladder and check for power at the wires coming out of the ceiling to the unit. If you have power on ?both? hot legs that go to the unit, and no power to the light pull switch, then there is something in the light circuit itself, such as maybe that little black box that is in the light circuit, which is breaking the circuit. There are times when you can go to a manufacturer?s web site and use the model number to find paper work on the particular item.
And some often include wiring diagrams showing components that someone could look at and possibly theorize a problem and make suggestions about what to try next. Hunter combines 19th century craftsmanship with 21st century design and technology to create ceiling fans of unmatched quality, style, and whisper-quiet performance. Suddenly, the wall switch (hardwire) won't turn the fan or the lights off or on though the green light is on.
I removed the lower switching and light unit that unscrews from beneath the fan unit to check the wires.
Is it possible (hard to believe though) that a faulty pull cord switch for the light could make the light, wall switch and remote switch inoperable?
Do you have the model where the wall switch matches and controls the fan's remote control ? One is to post the make and model of your remote control so that we can all look into its characteristics together. If a voltage meter shows no 120 V current going to the light sockets regardless of how many times I pull the chain switch, then there is no power going to those light sockets. I just removed the lower hub and didn't want to take apart more than necessary before getting some idea about what is going on.

I'd start by checking the dip switch settings on all three devices (assuming they have those), the power coming into the canopy, and the output from the controller.
Using the finest materials to create stylish designs, Hunter ceiling fans work beautifully in today’s homes and can save up to 47% on cooling costs! I just provided that as additional information to show the complete complexity of the problem.
The fan will work properly when turned off, on or the speed changed from the pull cord itself. The hardwire wall switch we have used for 9 years to control both the fan and the light does not do anything.
There are two black units one larger than the other that connect to the pull chain switches and to the lights and fans.
Three of the four wires (green brown, grey) coming out of the bigger black unit go to the fan chain switch. The switch runs on two wires between it and and the fan instead of the required three and transmits the commands from the wall switch to the receiver. Aside from the outside cosmetic differences, the basic design of a fan and light combo unit are the same even though the exact part numbers may differ for some models. Through screw on wire connectors, the lights appear to be getting direct power from the main wires where one wire is connected to another white wire that goes to the small black unit. Honestly don't believe knowing the model number would make much difference since it's worked perfectly for 9 years.
It appears the only way the big black unit related to the fan gets power is through the one grey wire that connects to the directional switch where other white wires, yellow wires and pink wires go into.

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