How does a ceiling fan control switch work together,stand floor fans decorative,ceiling fan for sale philippines zip - Easy Way

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I thought all I had to do to make an outlet switched was to break off the tab between the hot wires.
What likely happened is this: Most electricians will daisy-chain outlets, using one set of terminals for the feed, and one to go to the next outlet.
Sometimes there is a normal two-conductor wire that goes from the feed in the outlet to the switch (on black), and then the switch connects the two wires, and it comes back and goes to the top outlet (with the tab broken off). The other way it's often done is by having the feed come into the switch, then carried over a 3-conductor wire to the first (switched) outlet, where the red wire is switched and is connected to the top outlet, white carries neutral, and black is hot and is both connected on the bottom outlet and daisy-chained along to the rest.
There's other variations as well, though generally the power will be on the same circuit (breaker) - otherwise any fixture on it must have a clear indication that it is powered by two sources, and honestly I've never seen this done in a residential setting before (not even sure if residential code allows it).
So in short, you can't make a switched outlet unless the outlet is explicitly wired that way.
For a less intrusive option, you can put in some "smart" switches like Insteon, UBP, or X10 (though honestly, X10 has signal reliability problems, I'd stay away despite it being dirt cheap). Not the answer you're looking for?Browse other questions tagged electrical or ask your own question.
How do I replace a ceiling fan controlled by 2 wall switches with a standard wall plug outlet?
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Can "immortal" be used to describe someone that lives forever, yet can be destroyed? I moved the switch where the power comes in and replaced the 3-wire that ran between it and the light. Power comes in on a 2-wire (black, white, ground), is connected to the light on 3-wire (black, white, red, ground), the power that exists the lamp is a 2-wire (black, white, ground), and the wire that leads to the other switch is 3-wire (black, white, red, ground).
Thats a great figure, but I don't see where the power leaves the light to power another room. With any of these setups, anywhere you have a constant hot AND a neutral, you can pigtail off of that to go to the next outlet. NOTE: The picture Secutanudu provided is something of a cross between simple switching and a switch loop. If you can see the various cables (or groupings) of wires coming into the box, making a note of what is in each cable will help a lot. Power from a 3 way switch up to a light in the middle needs 4 conductors to provide 3 way action and also send a constant power feed on from the light to something else. It is difficult to shop locally when the locality slaps you with a fine if you are a little slow getting back to your car. Every reference I've read says the same thing: that I need a 4-wire conductor to transmit power.
Unless something illegal was done way back when, like using the ground wire as the neutral coming up from the switch with power. Now that you took it apart and then put it back together correctly, you discovered that there are not enough wires to make everything work.
Go to my Switch Terminology Page where I discuss the terms used for the different types of home electrical switches.
When wiring a 3-way switch circuit, we will be using a 3-wire cable known as romex coming from the source (such as the breaker box). When wiring a 3-way switch circuit, all we want to do is to control the black wire (hot wire) to turn on and off the load from 2 different locations. Notice that there is a 3-conductor cable coming into the first box, then a 4-conductor cable going from left box to right box, then a 3-conductor cable going from the right box to the load.
The diagram below will give you a good understanding of what this circuit is accomplishing.
What is common in the diagrams above and with any 3-way switch circuit is that the power hot wire coming into the circuit will always go to the common terminal of the first switch.

The diagrams on this page are for wiring a ceiling fan and light kit often used in a living room or bedroom. This wiring diagram illustrates the connections for dual controls, a speed controller for the fan and a dimmer for the lights. This diagram is similar to the one above, but with the electrical source originating at the fixture.
This wiring arrangement allows for lowering the lights with a dimmer and controlling the fan with the built-in pull chain. Use this wiring when the source is at the fixture and you want to control the feed to both components with the same switch.
Use this wiring when the power source originates at the switch and you want to control both the fan and light from there. The right size ceiling fan for your room depends on more than just the square footage or your area. As a general rule, you can start with the recommended fan for a given room size as follows: For a large room of 15'x15' or more, choose a ceiling fan with a blade span of 52, 56 or 60 inches. Usually there is a small sliding switch on the side of the motor housing that will control the fan direction. This is a very old web page written before 2008 where the rules changed requiring RCD protection on buried cables at less than 50mm and also for bathroom lights. Benefit of those is you don't even have to replace the outlet - once you have the switch in, you can put plug-in modules anywhere you want that will be controlled by that switch. Wiring arrangements for an electrical source at the switch and at the ceiling fixture are included, as well as controls for fan speed, light dimmer and a single-pole switch hardwired to control the light with a pull chain.
These include a timer to control the fan, a single-pole switch controlling the fan, and an exhaust fan and light fixture wired on two different switches.
The white wire is usually the neutral which is always connected directly to the source neutral, either at the source or through a splice in the switch box. The source is at the controllers and the input of each is spliced to the black source wire with a pigtail.
The white wire is no longer used for hot and the source neutral is run through to the switch box to satisfy the 2011 NEC requirement of a neutral wire in all switch boxes. The source is at the ceiling outlet box and 3-wire cable runs from there to the switch box.
Three-wire cable runs from the fan to the switch box and the source neutral is spliced to the white wire and to the fan neutral.
These fans usually come with a small electrical connection box welded to the side of the housing. There should be two hot wires and a ground coming out of the timer casing, splice one of these to the hot source. The light is controlled with a single-pole switch and the fan controlled with a timer as in the previous drawing.
Furniture, normal ambient temperature for the room, and ceiling height will all have an effect on the efficiency of the fan you choose.
For a 12'x12' room, go with 44 to 48 inches of blade span, and for small rooms of 8'x8' or so, a blade span of 36 inches should do the trick. This function allows for more efficient cooling in the summer and for circulating heat in the room during the winter. I expect to lose access to these pages due to change of ISP some day I may get around to re-writing but please do check on latest regulations. The difference is that rather than just one switch, there are two switches that are connected together via travelers (the NON-Common screw terminals).
Two wires connect the two travelers together, and the third wire connectes to the common terminal on the far side.
The traveler wires go from switch to switch connected to the traveler terminals, it doesn't matter which. The neutral from the source is spliced directly to the white wire on the fan kit and the cable, running it through to the switch box.

The source hot is spliced to the red wire which is connected to the bottom terminals on the switch at the other end.
The hot source is spliced to each controlling device and the output of the controllers are connected as in the previous diagrams on this page. If you're installing more than one ceiling fan in a room or hall, set the distance between the two at 2 times the blade span.
With this attitude, a counter clockwise spin will force air down into the room creating a cooling breeze.
In most cases sliding the switch down will set counter clockwise spin, while sliding it up will set clockwise spin. The switched black hot and the white neutral then go to the light to supply switched power. Three wires are used to connect the two three way switches together, two for the two travellers, and one for the additional wire. So back at the 1st switch, you connect the two wires from your light to the common terminal of the switch and the other to the third wire from the common at the far side of the switch. When the left switch is toggled, it connects to the upper circuit and now the circuit is open at the right switch which turns off the light. The black wire is splice to the output on the speed controller and to the black, fan wire at the other end.
The hot source wire is spliced to the white on the 3-wire cable and then spliced to the input wires on both controllers at the other end. The black wire is connected to the top terminal on the switch which runs power back to the fan where it is spliced to both the black and blue fan wires.
The black cable wire is connected to the top terminal on the switch and spliced to the black and blue wires at the fan at the other end. Clockwise rotation will pull air up to the ceiling, disturbing the warm air collected there and circulating it throughout the room to warm things up. So if you think of two three-way switches as a single unit, externally, you simply have two terminals for your hot to run through (these are the two common terminals, one on each 3-way) and internally, you have two wires that connect the two travelers, plus a third wire to account for the fact the two parts of the switch are in two boxes.
Toggle the right switch and it connects to the upper circuit and now closes the path and turns the light back on and so on. The red wire is spliced to the output on the dimmer and to the blue, light wire at the other end. At the other end, the black cable wire is spliced to one of the hot dimmer wires, it doesn't matter which one.
The neutral source wire is spliced to the white cable wire in the switch box and to the white fan wire at the other end.
When a switch loop is done this way, the white between the light and switch is actually now a constant hot and is supposed to have a black piece of tape wrapped around it to remark it from a neutral to a hot. The ground should be spliced with a short piece of wire and connected to each device and outlet box that has a grounding terminal. The neutral from the source is spliced in the switch box with the white wire, and to the neutral wire on the ceiling fixture at the other end. The other dimmer wire is spliced to the red wire in the switch box which is spliced to the blue, light wire at the other end. In these drawing the brass colored terminal represent the hot side of the device and the silver colored terminal represent the neutral.
Connect the ground to the grounding terminal in the connection box and the ground wire from the fan, if there is one.

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05.02.2015 admin

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