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Articles on mechanical ventilation commonly warn builders that exhaust-only ventilationMechanical ventilation system in which one or more fans are used to exhaust air from a house and make-up air is supplied passively. One thing I’ve learned over the years, however, is that just because an idea is intuitively obvious, doesn’t mean it’s true. An exhaust-only ventilation system depends on one or more exhaust fans (usually bathroom exhaust fans) that either operate continuously or intermittently. It isn’t hard to find authors who warn that exhaust-only ventilation systems can be dangerous. From NSERDA’s “Homeowner’s Guide to Ventilation”: “Exhaust-only ventilation is a good choice for homes that do not have existing ductwork to distribute heated or cooled air. Indoor radon levels can be tested; if long-term testing shows radon levels above 4 picocuries per liter, it’s a good idea to install a radon mitigation system.
Most experts explain that radon gas is drawn into a house by the stack effectAlso referred to as the chimney effect, this is one of three primary forces that drives air leakage in buildings.
Authors who warn about possible dangers from exhaust-only ventilation systems assume that, since exhaust fans depressurize a house, the fans probably increase the radon risk. It turns out that a few researchers have measured radon levels in homes with exhaust-only ventilation systems. The researchers gathered data at eight Alaskan homes over a three-year period from 1998 to 2000. To find out how the home’s exhaust ventilation system affected indoor radon levels, the researchers turned off the ventilation fan for five days. Intrigued by these researchers’ findings, I contacted Max Sherman, a senior scientist and ventilation expert at Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory.
The Alaskan researchers (Seifert and Schmid) reported that the exhaust ventilation system at the Goldstream house depressurized the house to -7 Pascals. The Vermont researchers reported, “The pressures induced by fans in these tests, averaging in the range of -1 Pa, were low relative to pressures induced on a house by natural forces including wind and temperature driven stack effect. The main driver of radon entry into a home is the stack effect, which is why radon concentrations tend to be higher in winter than in summer. In many homes, the stack effect has more of a depressurizing effect than the typical exhaust fan. Finally, if you are sealing a home's air leakage paths as part of a weatherization job, it's important to seal below-grade cracks as well as above-grade cracks. It is even more disingenuous when this question is being asked about EOV's and ignored about the more powerful and ubiquitous heating, cooling, fresh air systems that do pose a risk to occupants from Rn exposure. In general, one would prefer to land on the controlled as oppose to serendipitous side (i.e. I have been testing with a continuous radon monitor for 8 months in my house to learn more about a variety of strategies for mitigating radon. The last time you used the pages of GBA to express the opinion that HRV and ERV systems aren't "balanced," you were preaching to the converted -- in the sense that anyone who takes a "house as a system" approach knows that you can't adjust one element of a building without potentially affecting other systems. Still, it's useful to have a word to describe ventilation systems that simultaneously remove stale air from some rooms and supply fresh air to others. There have been several studies trying to see whether there is a correlation between the airtightness of homes and radon levels, as well as several studies to see whether radon levels go up or down after weatherization work is performed. One of the points I tried to make in my article is that speculation is less interesting than data.
If you can refer to a study that supports your hypothesis that homes with HRVs are more likely to have high radon levels than homes with exhaust-only ventilation systems, please provide a link or a reference so I can read the data. You wrote, "So to me it seems the off-gassing from soils of radon may have nothing (or very little) to do with air pressure difference between the house and the outdoors or between the attic and the basement, and a lot more to do with the barrier between the house interior space and the soil.
I have searched the internet for a news story or study showing that a house full of non smoking non mine workers have died and at the autopsy radon was found in the lung tissues. As I wrote in my earlier article, All About Radon, builders of new homes should include a passive radon mitigation system in all new homes, and, if long-term testing shows that the house has radon levels over 4 picocuries per liter, the passive system should be turned into an active system by adding a fan. Entrainment of radioactive particulate and Radon (Rn) gas is a function of (1) humidity and electrostatic charging which makes airborne radionuclides move and concentrate, (2) the kinetics of the radiation itself (Rn emits A, B and G particles as it decays), (3) and mechanical forces like air disturbances. The Vermont study indicates the negative pressure of an EOV system is not sufficient to entrain and distribute Rn. So why would there be a default assumption that EOV ventilation is a threat to health due to Rn entrainment? Aj, tissue samples would likely not show what you are looking for, as the half life of radon is short enough at 3.8 days that it will not show long term exposure. Interestingly, the same studies show that radon + smoking is much worse than either one alone.
My understanding of the standard radon mitigation strategies is that they primarily attempt to interrupt the vertical movement of radon from below the house, within the footprint. That's why, if a foundation wall (especially a CMU wall) is in bad shape, a radon mitigation contractor may recommend that the wall should be parged or otherwise sealed. Thanks for your comments; I certainly look forward to reviewing the data in the study you describe.
There are several variables here, including (1) the type of foundation, (2) radon levels in the lowest level of the house, (3) the tightness of the floor assembly that separates the house from the vented crawl space, and (4) the tightness of the home's above-grade walls and ceiling assembly.
In order for an exhaust-only ventilation system to raise indoor levels, you need several factors to be aligned -- as they apparently were in the case you describe.
If you operate an exhaust fan in this type of house, you want most of your makeup air to come from above-grade cracks.
First some background: in the Northwest, vented crawlspace is still the norm and still are common in existing homes in the rest of the country. EOVs are worthless for providing "fresh air" where you need it (debatable 'dilution' of contaminants), contribute to uncontrolled infiltration, can exacerbate combustion air problems we're already seeing in tight homes (not the cause, just contribute to the problem), and cause unnecessary energy use.
The worst-case scenario would be to concentrate on sealing above-grade cracks while ignoring below-grade cracks.
Most old homes are leaky, and, try as you might, you won't be able to seal up all above-grade cracks with your weatherization efforts. If there is a case study of a house that doesn't fall under these general rules, I'm not surprised.
I'll repeat my overall recommendation concerning radon: It's a good idea to test your house for radon. Your blogs set the politic of this site, indicated by your tendency to downplay passive and green solutions in favor of higher technology and active (energy expensive) solutions. Due to the stack effect, almost all basements are at a negative pressure with respect to the outdoors, at least during cold weather, due to the stack effect.
You also misunderstand me if you think that the purpose of this blog is to praise and promote complicated, expensive ventilation systems that include an HRV.
Martin … this Finish study shows mechanical ventilation concentrates indoors radon and moves it largely via convection.
While it appears that the Finnish researchers found that Finnish homes with HRVs have a lower level of indoor radon than Finnish homes with exhaust-only ventilation systems, I don't think that they are asserting that exhaust-only ventilation systems actually raise indoor radon levels. The two quotes you have chosen to share do not appear to contradict what I have written; nor do they support your apparent prejudice against HRVs.
Martin Holladay has worked as a plumbing wholesale counterperson, roofer, remodeler, and builder. Summary: How to install the venting duct system for a bathroom exhaust fan to make sure humidity and condensation are properly exhausted outdoors. When you install a bathroom fan do not let flexible ductwork sag because this will reduce air flow. How to Wire a Switch for an Inline Exhaust Fan – Each pair of wires will act as a switch to control one side of the low voltage power. How to Install Bathroom Exhaust Fan Electrical Wiring – Fully Explained Photos and Wiring Diagrams for Bathroom Electrical Wiring with Code Requirements for most new or remodel projects. How to Wire a Switch for Bath Exhaust Fan and Light – You will be using multiple switches for individual functions. Depends on personal level experience, ability to work with tools, install electrical circuit wiring, and the available access to the project area. Identify the panel circuits found in the project area, turn them OFF and Tag them with a Note before working with the electrical wiring.
Electrical parts and materials for home wiring projects should be approved for the specific project and compliant with local and national electrical codes.
Installing additional home electrical wiring should be done according to local and national electrical codes with a permit and be inspected. I think your site offers the the clearest and best electrical information for homeowners I have ever seen on the net.You have given me confidence to do my own projects which I never had before.
I wish I found this site earlier, it is by far the best electrical related resource I have found on the web. The diagram to the left is a very typical rambler style one level home with a basement mechanical room. At the swamp cooler, the water hook-up is usually located on an exterior corner of the cooler. Residential 110 volt wiring is fairly uncomplicated and easy to understand, however some folks are not comfortable working on any wiring. The swamp cooler wiring pictured and explained here is unnecessary if you are installing a window mount cooler or a sidedraft style window cooler. Electrical Question: I have bought a small extractor fan or exhaust fan which I want to install in my bathroom. I want to make it go on only when people enter the room so I bought a motion occupancy sensor. Precaution: Identify the light circuit, turn it OFF and  Tag it with a Note before working with the wiring. Notice: Installing additional electrical wiring should be done according to local and national electrical codes with a permit and be inspected. Materials: Make sure the occupancy sensor has the same amperage and voltage rating for the electrical load, and is fully compatible with the electrical circuit and the device it will be controlling. The wiring is straight forward except that some of these occupancy sensor switches require a neutral wire for the 120 volt applications. The electrical wiring would be connected with the power source in and load out to the bathroom exhaust fan, a neutral wire if required and a ground wire.
Below is one example of a occupancy motion sensor switch wiring diagram which should be helpful. Please read the complete installation instructions for your specific motion occupancy sensor switch for your bathroom exhaust fan.
Answers to all of your questions about installing a bath exhaust fan and your bathroom exhaust fan replacement project. I have had an electrician install motion sensors in the powder room and bathrooms to control the exhaust fans.

Intermediate to Advanced - Electrical Repairs and Circuit Wiring is Best Performed by a Certified Electrician or Licensed Electrical Contractor. Depends on personal level experience, ability to work with tools, work with electrical wiring, and the available access to the project area. Identify the project circuit, turn it OFF and Tag it with a Note before working with the wiring.
Modifying existing electrical circuits or installing additional electrical wiring should be done according to local and National Electrical Codes, with a permit and be inspected. Step 1A - To try the fastest way possible to unclog your bathroom sink, use a CLEAN plunger and try pumping the water down the drain. By far, the most common problem that occurs with combustion air ducts is that they get blocked. A combustion air duct brings in fresh outdoor air, which usually means cold outdoor air in Minnesota. Just make sure that the bucket or box you use isn’t so small that it restricts air flow. Also, make sure the duct isn’t so long that the opening sits flat on the floor, effectively blocking it. The opening at the exterior for the combustion air duct will bring air in to the home, and with that comes dust, dirt, insects, leaves, etc. Solution: take a peek underneath your combustion air duct every year to make sure it stays clean. Every so often, vinyl siding installers will forget which opening was meant for the combustion air intake, and they’ll install a damper at this opening instead of a screen. The inlet for the combustion air duct needs to be installed at least 12″ above grade. That concludes my list of the most common installation and maintenance defects with combustion air ducts. Quick links in this post: Blocked duct at interior, dirty intake at exterior, small mesh at exterior, blocked intake at exterior, intake installed too low, cut down on cold air coming in. My HVAC contractor just installed two makeup air vents in a space with my older non-high efficiency furnace made out of large galvanized pipe, one high, one low, which both bring in freezing cold air (Denver). I have a high efficiency direct vent furnance and am having issues with the the wire mesh on the intake pvc pipe getting covered in snow and susequently shutting the furnace off. Had a Lennox HE furnace installed a year ago and the comdustion air PVC is icing up on the outside of the pipe inside the basement. The combustion air duct doesn't have to terminate at the floor, but this will help to reduce the amount of cold air that dumps into the room. A true 'direct vent' appliance obtains all of it's combustion air directly from the exterior. It's ultimately up to the building official to decide whether a combustion air duct is needed in the scenario you describe. Hi Bill, if you have a high-efficiency furnace taking it's combustion air from the exterior, you should keep it that way. Exhaust-only ventilation creates slight depressurization of the home; its impact on vented gas appliances should be considered. Throughout history, many observers have speculated; far fewer have actually made measurements. This type of ventilation system is usually set up to ventilate a house at the rate recommended by ASHRAE 62.2A standard for residential mechanical ventilation systems established by the American Society of Heating, Refrigerating, and Air-Conditioning Engineers. When warm air is in a column (such as a building), its buoyancy pulls colder air in low in buildings as the buoyant air exerts pressure to escape out the top.
The researchers wrote, “Clearly the radon level goes up steadily, nearly doubling in the five days it is turned off.
One such anecdote was recounted to me by Dick Kornbluth, a radon mitigation contractor in Syracuse, New York. As a comparison, calculations of natural infiltration often use a seasonal average of 4 Pascals as the magnitude of these forces.
Moreover, even when the depressurizing effect of a fan is strong, some of the air pulled into the house is fresh outdoor air that enters from above-grade cracks rather than soil gas entering through below-grade cracks. Our knowledge about the effects of exhaust-only ventilation systems on indoor radon levels would benefit from more research. The conventional description for these systems (to distinguish them from exhaust-only or supply-only systems) is "balanced." I think it's a useful descriptor. The use of the term "balanced ventilation system" does not represent fraud, scamming, or a misunderstanding of pressure dynamics or building science. Radon enters a home through foundation cracks, and the most important driving force for radon entry is the stack effect. That is, if you're concerned about negative pressures pulling and redistributing radioactive gasses and particulate. Moreover, it provides a useful perspective to builders of new homes who wonder whether exhaust ventilation systems are dangerous. The issue really is (1) do relative increases in negative pressure bring in more Rn and (2) does ventilation makes the Rn more bioavailable. Both the stack effect and an exhaust fan can depressurize certain areas of a house with respect to the outdoors. Leaky envelopes contribute to the stack effect in both types of houses, as I explained in my first answer. The factors you describe -- negative pressure basements, differential negative pressure zones throughout the envelope, leaky envelopes, and natural dynamic pressure changing forces -- are present in all houses to some degree. The constant EOV increases leakage from the crawlspace into the building (regardless of air sealing of the building). But if you are performing air leaking work on a house with an exhaust-only ventilation system, it's clearly useful to pay attention to sealing cracks in the floor assembly (or, if the house has a basement, to sealing below-grade cracks).
I feel safe in reporting that if you install an exhaust fan in the 50 cfm to 100 cfm range, most of the makeup air in the average home is going to come from above-grade cracks, and this makeup air is likely to dilute any radon in the house.
But I'd like to read it in a published paper or article to know more details about the house construction.
If your radon levels are consistently above 4 picocuries per liter, call a radon mitigation contractor.
This fact is independent of your choice of ventilation system; it's even true if you have no ventilation system. On the contrary; this blog can be interpreted as a defense of simple, inexpensive ventilation systems. He built his first passive solar house in northern Vermont in 1974, and has lived off the grid since 1975. The low voltage relay is located near the in-line exhaust fan where it will act as a switch for the 120 volt power for the in-line exhaust fan. Your home may be configured differently, but you should still be able to adapt the basic wiring and water line configuration into your home. Routing Often the best route for your swamp cooler wiring and water line between mechanical room and the attic is the flue chase.
This can be tricky, as the route must communicate with unfinished space to the power source, and also communicate with the attic. Turn the pump on for 10 minutes to thoroughly wet the pads before use. The cool settings (hi or lo) is full operation with pump wetting the pads and blower distributing cooled air into the residence. If your occupancy sensor requires a neutral connection then a neutral of the light that you want to control must be in the switch box. This week I’m going to follow up with some of the most common problems and solutions related to combustion air duct installation and maintenance. Two new pipes now protrude out the back of the house, between a fence and deck, with the intake only 8 inches above the ground and the exhaust some 16 inches higher. I'd say it's better to have one for the reasons you mention, but it's probably not critical. Among other requirements, the standard requires a home to have a mechanical ventilation system capable of ventilating at a rate of 1 cfm for every 100 square feet of occupiable space plus 7.5 cfm per occupant. The pressure of stack effect is proportional to the height of the column of air and the temperature difference between the air in the column and ambient air.
Although counterintuitive, it nonetheless appears that radon induction is reduced by the ventilation fan. According to the best available data, the net effect of operating an exhaust-only ventilation system is, in most cases, a reduction rather than an increase in indoor radon levels. I look forward to more research, as well as more reports from GBA readers about their own measurements.
There are many factors at work; as "house as a system" seminars have taught us, all of the factors interact.
No further testing, and forget everything this blog is which is basically making a simple problem-solution into an unknown unending to be brought up again monster. The stack effect tends to depressurize the lower sections of a house with respect to the outdoors.
To the extent that a house has infiltration due to wind, the infiltration will dilute any radon in the house.
Since the factors are present whether or not the house has an HRV, I don't see why there is any reason to assert that HRVs are "implicated." (Implicated in what?) Researchers have not found any correlation between the leakiness of a home's envelope the home's indoor radon levels. If the basement wall or the crawl space wall has cracks, then radon can enter the home through those cracks, just as it can enter through slab cracks. It may not be much, but every CFM of infiltration from below equals reduced CFM cross-ventilation of the crawlspace, possibly to the point of no cross ventilation. But if your house has very tight walls, a very tight ceiling, and a leaky floor assembly, you have the worst case scenario. You're implying home sealing will control where the air enters the home: that isn't ever going to happen and there are plenty of studies to back this up. I think it's time for Mr Sherman to show the benefits (if any) of the EOV outweigh the negatives.
These efforts are a standard part of any radon mitigation job; it's not rocket science, and weatherization workers are familiar with the routine. I provide evidence that in most cases, exhaust-only systems lower rather than raise indoor radon levels. In 1980, Holladay bought his first photovoltaic(PV) Generation of electricity directly from sunlight. This is a very popular location for the wiring and water line, because the chase is accessible from both the basement or main level mech.
Once again, if it is practical, placing the switch on the outide of the flue chase can be a good option. Make sure that the wiring does not touch the flue. If there is not a neutral wire of the light circuit at the switch box then you may not be able to install the occupancy sensor.
The vent fan in your bathroom works very hard as it has to deal with heavy moisture, cold, heat, chemicals in the air, and dust.

Installer has installed insulated tubing around the pipe but water is still coming in.Humidity levels are around 25%. Stack effect is much stronger in cold climates during the heating season than in hot climates during the cooling season.. The exhaust system depressurized the home to -7 Pascals, which is a significant level of depressurization.
And I would also say, ‘Don’t do short-term testing.’ The problem with short-term testing is you might see a short-term spike and think you are going to die. That is, if your concerned about negative pressures pulling in radioactive gasses and particulate. If the basement is depressurized -- for whatever reason -- then more soil gas will be pulled through the existing cracks.
Conceivable, a badly installed HRV could also contribute to depressurization, but I have never heard of such a case, nor have I read a research report describing an HRV system that contributes significantly to depressurization. An exhaust-only ventilation system additionally contributes to depressurization, on the order of about -1 Pascal to perhaps -7 Pascals.
Infiltration tends to lower radon levels, whether the infiltration occurs in a house with an HRV or in a house with an exhaust-only ventilation system. I quote from some sources (articles on the web) that imply that exhaust-only ventilation may increase indoor radon levels. Reduce the cross ventilation and you've increased the Rn concentration level in the crawlspace.
If it is your intent to defend the performance of exhaust-only ventilation systems, then perhaps we agree. A photovoltaic cell has no moving parts; electrons are energized by sunlight and result in current flow.
I am fairly confident the issue is that the exhaust pipes (on both my furnace and possibly my neighbour's furnace) become mini snow-makers on extremely cold days and hence are the source of my problem. The stack effectAlso referred to as the chimney effect, this is one of three primary forces that drives air leakage in buildings. He installed ductwork in the basement that he connected to a fan blowing out through the band sill. Basement slabs with wide cracks obviously allow soil gases to enter the home at a faster rate than basement slabs with few cracks.
Since the commissioning process for an HRV tries to balance the supply airflow with the exhaust airflow, the main depressurizing appliances in a house with an HRV are likely to be the range hood fan, the clothes dryer, and (if it exists) an unbalanced forced-air heating system.
If, in addition to having a leaky envelope that allows for a lot of wind-driven infiltration, a house also has an HRV, both of these sources of outdoor air -- the infiltration air and the fresh air introduced by the HRV -- will tend to lower indoor radon levels. I don't know the reasoning behind those statements, although I provide some speculations on the issue in my article.
A low spot could hold water and freeze during the winter, causing a leak at start-up time in the spring. The other end ties into the cold water supply line in the mechanical room. The question is how to prevent the intake pipe from getting clogged by this snow that is generated by the furnace exhaust pipes? Ventilation systems that pull more fresh air into a house from above-grade cracks or vents tend to dilute indoor radon levels.
And homes with lots of fresh air to dilute the radon are likely to have lower radon levels, all other factors being equal, than homes without any ventilation or with little above-grade infiltration. Then I go on to refute the assertion that exhaust-only ventilation may be a threat to health.
In their study, it seems the incoming concentration exceeds the "dilution" capacity per CFM of the EOV fan. A plastic water line may melt and leak, and a copper one will rot away if touching a galvanized sheet metal flue. Do NOT install a coupling in the attic space.
Usually these exhaust vents are installed in the bathroom ceiling and are easy to remove and replace.How to replace a noisy or broken bathroom vent fanIf your bathroom exhaust fan is making a weird vibrating noise or just will not turn on and vent out the moisture, then here is how to fix it. I have tried multiple things, such as putting pvc elbows and extensions on the intake pipe. Exhaust ventilation systems can increase the rate at which radon enters a home while simultaneously pulling in fresh outdoor air to dilute indoor radon levels. When performing bathroom vent fan replacement installation, you do not need to remove the complete vent assembly. Even in an unvented crawlspace, the EOV will reduce the level of negative pressure between the occupied space and the crawlspace (I sure hope noone is recirculating this air if you're in radon country).
Should I be putting some kind of extension on the exhaust pipes to redirect the exhaust away from the intake? You can then look online or take the fan housing assembly to your local home improvement store (Lowe’s, Home Depot, ACE) and match it up with a replacement fan motor assembly.
Indoor air escapes through ceiling cracks; as a result, the lower sections of a home become depressurized, and soil gases are pulled into the house. Also, there may be a weird noise coming from inside the vent because there is so much dust and dirt covering the moving parts. Here is information that will assist you in identifying what may be making your Fisher & Paykel washing machine display an error code. Clean everything out using a wand style vacuum cleaner and then test to see if the noise has stopped. It seems to be better without that drafty cold air coming in through the cold air vents from the outside.
You can also remove the fan motor assembly (see below for how to remove) and plug the fan motor into another power outlet in the house. Once you have done everything you possibly can without replacing anything, put everything back together and test to see if it is working properly.
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Remove the plastic cover by unscrewing one plastic screw OR pull the cover down and squeeze the metal clips and pull downward.Step 3.
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25.06.2014 admin

Comments to «Home ventilation fan switch automotive»

  1. Leonardo_dicaprio writes:
    Means your fan will never ever be too low hunting for a kid.
  2. ILK_VE_SON_OPUS writes:
    Ceiling Fan Business with wooden blades or blades that are produced fit the.