Ceiling fan speed and light control system,xpelair turbo shower fan and light - chrome with timer,almonard pedestal fan price list xls - For Begninners

Even if you are experienced in working with household electricity, the disclaimer at the top of this web page contains important notes about the information in this document, so please read it if you have not already done so.
This web page describes repairs made to a ceiling fan with a pull-chain speed control switch.
Ceiling fans with pull chains typically include a speed control switch, a direction switch, and a capacitor. The information in this document is based on my experience fixing a ceiling fan with a 3-speed (plus off) switch and a 5-wire capacitor.
In the lower hub of the ceiling fan where the capacitor and switches are located, several wires come down from higher in the fan. The black wires on the diagram are connected to the black wire that comes down from higher in the fan.
After completing the repair, I noticed than when switching from medium speed to high speed there is sometimes a slight audible "pop" suggesting sparking inside the switch. Before disconnecting any wires, make sure you write down what the original connections are.
If you do not know the pattern of the original switch and cannot find any information on it, you might consider disassembling the switch (after removing it from the fan, obviously) to see if you can determine the contact pattern. If you cannot determine the pattern of your original switch or are unsuccessful working from the original pattern, a more in-depth approach is required. Most likely a capacitor needs to be in series between the incoming power and the motor winding. You also need to know the internal configuration of your capacitor, since ceiling fan capacitors often contain multiple capacitors in one package.
Once you know the internals of your capacitor block, you need to figure out a switch wiring that will create the desired combinations of capacitors. Note that all this experimentation with wire positions is done on paper, not with the actual wires. The diagrams on this page are for wiring a ceiling fan and light kit often used in a living room or bedroom. This wiring diagram illustrates the connections for dual controls, a speed controller for the fan and a dimmer for the lights. This diagram is similar to the one above, but with the electrical source originating at the fixture.
This wiring arrangement allows for lowering the lights with a dimmer and controlling the fan with the built-in pull chain. Use this wiring when the source is at the fixture and you want to control the feed to both components with the same switch. Use this wiring when the power source originates at the switch and you want to control both the fan and light from there. The right size ceiling fan for your room depends on more than just the square footage or your area.
As a general rule, you can start with the recommended fan for a given room size as follows: For a large room of 15'x15' or more, choose a ceiling fan with a blade span of 52, 56 or 60 inches. Usually there is a small sliding switch on the side of the motor housing that will control the fan direction.
Ceiling Fan Remote Wall Switch – 26 results like the Hampton Bay Ceiling Fan Wall Control 9050H 9050H, RC588 Minka Aire Hand-Held Remote Control Adapter Kit, Fan I am trying to connect my ceiling fan to a wall switch for operation. The Hampton Bay Wireless Ceiling Fan Control Switch is Designed to Work With All Brands of Ceiling Fans and Can Be Used to Operate Both the Light and Speed of the Fan. Ceiling fans can be wired two ways: with a pull-chain that controls the power at the fan itself, or at a wall switch.
How to properly connect a ceiling fan wall switch is something you don't want to pass over in too much of a rush. Armed with the right tools and a little know-how, you can install your own ceiling fan control wall switch. To post questions, help other DIYers and reduce advertising (like the one on your left), join our DIY community.
Can someone tell me the wiring schematic for a Harbor Breeze ceiling fan remote control unit? I connected the black power lead to black ceiling fan lead plus 2 black leads on the remote antenna unit for a total of 4 black leads connected together. I connected the white neutral lead to white ceiling fan lead plus 2 white leads on the remote antenna unit for a total of 4 white leads connected together.
I connected blue cf lead to blue lead antenna unit for a total of 2 leads connected together. The light works fine from the hand remote, off and on, no problem but I can not turn off the fan from the hand remote or the HI, MED, LOW does not work from the hand remote.
The ceiling wires should connect to the ones on the remote labeled L (black) and N (white).
If you have a pull chain switch the pull chain switch for the fan should be set to high for the fan to work properly by the remote.
I have another remote control fan light in another part of the house about 35 feet away and the two remotes are competing with each other! Casablanca 3-Spd Pull Chain SwitchThis is a four wire fan pull chain switch for use on older three speed Casablanca fans. The first step (as always) is to determine what circuit breaker feeds power to the circuit we are working on, and shut off that breaker.  For a quick review of safety considerations when working around electricity, CLICK HERE. Now that the breaker is off, and the electrical panel is locked (if so equipped) so nobody can accidentally turn the breaker back on while you are working on the circuit you can safely begin working.
If you don’t have provisions for locking off the access to the panel, put a piece of electrical tape over the breaker handle holding it in the off position, and post a note warning others to leave the breaker off.
The next step is to remove the canopy of the fan to check on the existing wiring, and plan for the installation of the remote control receiver unit. The white wire from the supply cable will connect to the line in neutral, and the black wire will connect to the live in, or power in wire from the receiver. With all the connections made, we need to tuck the wires back into the box and install the remote receiver in the space available in the mounting bracket. When the remote receiver is installed and the canopy and trim ring are back in place, we can now make our changes in the multi-gang switch box.
With the switches back in place, and the faceplate installed, it’s time to check our installation.
Changing a ceiling fan to remote control is an excellent solution for many applications, but especially in a bedroom where the switch is by the entrance door. If you aren’t comfortable and confident in safely completing a project like this on your own, use the box on the left of the page to find a reliable trusted licensed electrician in your local area.
This entry was posted in How-To-Videos, Indoor Wiring and tagged ceiling fan, ceiling fan conversion, ceiling fan remote control, fan, remote control. A common problem with these switches is that the pull chain can break off inside the switch. Unfortunately, there is no agreement among manufacturers about how to configure these components.
However, I have also included some information on how to apply these concepts to the general case, so this information may be helpful even if you have a different type of capacitor or switch.

A fan capacitor with more than two wires will probably contain multiple capacitors in one block. Basically this arrangement puts the input power through a capacitor and then into one of the motor windings. The black wire from the fan originally branched into two, but it was necessary to add a third to work with this switch. If you know which contacts the switch connects in each speed position, then you can determine by inspection which wires get connected for each speed setting.
In the case of my fan, as described in the previous paragraph, this means connecting a capacitor in series between the black and gray wires.
If you do not know the internal configuration of your capacitor, you could make measurements to discover it.
Wiring arrangements for an electrical source at the switch and at the ceiling fixture are included, as well as controls for fan speed, light dimmer and a single-pole switch hardwired to control the light with a pull chain. These include a timer to control the fan, a single-pole switch controlling the fan, and an exhaust fan and light fixture wired on two different switches.
The white wire is usually the neutral which is always connected directly to the source neutral, either at the source or through a splice in the switch box. The source is at the controllers and the input of each is spliced to the black source wire with a pigtail. The white wire is no longer used for hot and the source neutral is run through to the switch box to satisfy the 2011 NEC requirement of a neutral wire in all switch boxes. The source is at the ceiling outlet box and 3-wire cable runs from there to the switch box. Three-wire cable runs from the fan to the switch box and the source neutral is spliced to the white wire and to the fan neutral. These fans usually come with a small electrical connection box welded to the side of the housing. There should be two hot wires and a ground coming out of the timer casing, splice one of these to the hot source. The light is controlled with a single-pole switch and the fan controlled with a timer as in the previous drawing. Furniture, normal ambient temperature for the room, and ceiling height will all have an effect on the efficiency of the fan you choose. For a 12'x12' room, go with 44 to 48 inches of blade span, and for small rooms of 8'x8' or so, a blade span of 36 inches should do the trick. This function allows for more efficient cooling in the summer and for circulating heat in the room during the winter. House wiring is black, copper, white and red; Fan wiring is black, Variable Fan Speed Control, 5 Amp Ivory Cooper Wiring Devices # 6005VK. Manual light operation with wall switch access plate Unique switch plate holder included Installing a fan with light kit.
You don't have to do anything about the pull I would like to replace the single wall switch that controls the light on a ceiling fan.
They provide lighting and cooling in one package–for both convenience and energy Buy 12 volts ceiling fan wall switch at BizRate, the best price comparison search engine on the web. Shop our Fanimation ceiling fan controls for remote controls, wall switches and accessories Best Answer: the first thing is to replace the outlets with new ones if you want both outlets to work.
With this particular fan, a trim ring conceals the four mounting screws that hold the canopy cover in place.
There is a 3-wire cable in the outlet box that provides a common neutral (white) wire, and the fan’s light kit is connected to the red, and the fan is connected to the black conductor. This can be a difficult job to make everything fit, but it’s important that everything fits in nicely and that no wires are pinched or jammed in too tightly so to avoid any damage to the conductors, potentially causing a short circuit condition. Remove the faceplate and the device screws and determine that the switch that controlled the light has a red wire on one terminal, and the switch that controlled the fan has a black wire on one side of it.
You can keep the remote on the bedside table, and have access to the light and the fan if needed in the middle of the night, without getting out of bed! Unfortunately, there are many types of fan switches and it is very difficult to find the right replacement. First, increasing the capacitance in series with the coil will typically increase the fan speed. IMPORTANT: Keep in mind that this wiring is for a particular switch type and a particular fan.
Then it is just a matter of finding a way to wire your new switch to replicate those connection patterns. The speed switch will also be involved of course, since it will determine which capacitor(s) are connected between the black and gray wires.
Important: Remember when working with capacitors that they can store a charge even when not connected to anything. However, please know that I cannot provide simple "this color wire goes here" responses to your questions about your particular fan.
The neutral from the source is spliced directly to the white wire on the fan kit and the cable, running it through to the switch box. The source hot is spliced to the red wire which is connected to the bottom terminals on the switch at the other end. The hot source is spliced to each controlling device and the output of the controllers are connected as in the previous diagrams on this page. If you're installing more than one ceiling fan in a room or hall, set the distance between the two at 2 times the blade span. With this attitude, a counter clockwise spin will force air down into the room creating a cooling breeze. In most cases sliding the switch down will set counter clockwise spin, while sliding it up will set clockwise spin. Wall Control Unit Only; Requires Reciever (Part# P001021500) Is this wall switch compatable with the Minka Aire Concept II 44' fan ? We only need one of these switched hot wires to act as the master power for the receiver unit. Both switches will have a black hot wire from the same hot splice connected to each switch. The fan speed and direction will have to be set to the desired position using the pull-chain and reverse switch, and the light kit pull-chain will have to be on as well in order for the remote to work. However, it may be possible to use a different type of replacement switch with modified wiring.
The capacitors come in even more variations, including different numbers of wires, different wire colors, and different capacitance values.
So, even if you are using a different type of fan, please read all the sections because they will help you understand how to figure out your particular ceiling fan. In this regard, note that a short (direct wire, no capacitor) is like an infinite capacitor (for AC power only, not DC). If you cannot get a replacement, or would rather just try to use whatever switch you can find at a local store, the following information may be helpful. For example, if you know that blue and black connect to make high and orange and black connect to make medium (just for example), then you would try to find a way to wire your new switch to make those same connections when you pull the chain.

Next I decided to use the 5 µF capacitor that is accessible through the green wire on the capacitor block. To check your wiring on paper, carefully trace out what the circuit will be for each switch position. The black wire is splice to the output on the speed controller and to the black, fan wire at the other end. The hot source wire is spliced to the white on the 3-wire cable and then spliced to the input wires on both controllers at the other end. The black wire is connected to the top terminal on the switch which runs power back to the fan where it is spliced to both the black and blue fan wires. The black cable wire is connected to the top terminal on the switch and spliced to the black and blue wires at the fan at the other end. Clockwise rotation will pull air up to the ceiling, disturbing the warm air collected there and circulating it throughout the room to warm things up. The black is hot when one switched it turned on, the red is hot when the other Ceiling Fan Wall Control.
You only need to completely remove one of the screws on each side, and just loosen the other two that are through the key-hole, or L-slots in the canopy cover to allow it to drop out of the way, exposing the mounting bracket and the fan wiring.
The other gray capacitor wire twists together with the gray wire coming from the direction switch. Discharge the capacitor safely and verify that it is discharged (using a volt meter perhaps) before touching the leads with your hands. The red wire is spliced to the output on the dimmer and to the blue, light wire at the other end. At the other end, the black cable wire is spliced to one of the hot dimmer wires, it doesn't matter which one. The neutral source wire is spliced to the white cable wire in the switch box and to the white fan wire at the other end. Note that the two 5 µF capacitors are in parallel with each other and this combination is in series between the black wire and the motor.
The red capacitor wire twists together with the red wire that comes down from higher in the ceiling fan.
Remember that the gray wires from the capacitor are connected internally to the other end of the capacitors that are on the green, brown, and red wires (see capacitor internals diagram above). The ground should be spliced with a short piece of wire and connected to each device and outlet box that has a grounding terminal. The neutral from the source is spliced in the switch box with the white wire, and to the neutral wire on the ceiling fixture at the other end.
The other dimmer wire is spliced to the red wire in the switch box which is spliced to the blue, light wire at the other end. Parts for all Hunter Ceiling Fans in the parts and accessories section including fan control,thermostats and switch.
Even in a good picture it may be very difficult to read labels engraved or stamped on plastic parts. The approach I took was to measure the capacitance between each possible pair of wires and then draw a diagram. Also, one of the gray wires from the capacitor goes to the gray wire from the direction switch, and from there to the motor. In these drawing the brass colored terminal represent the hot side of the device and the silver colored terminal represent the neutral.
Connect the ground to the grounding terminal in the connection box and the ground wire from the fan, if there is one. I will move the switch we are still using to the middle position, keep the switch for the room’s receptacles in the first position, and then use a blank filler plate to fill the position of the switch we removed. So, for example, it starts by connecting L and 1 on the top deck and, separately, L and 1 on the middle deck. Then verify your design by looking at your diagram and thinking about which wires the switch will connect in each position.
What I am describing here is just the logical process I followed for determining what these wires are. So now I have 5 µF in series between black and gray when the switch is in position L-1. After discharging the capacitor, it may be wise to check with a volt meter to make sure no charge remains between any pair of leads.
On the next pull it connects 1 and 2, then 2 and 3, then 3 and L, and finally back to L and 1.
The red wire from the fan was connected directly to the red wire on the capacitor, so I left it that way. I found that the black wire is apparently hot (as usual), and the white is neutral (as usual). If you cannot find the internal configuration of your capacitor, another approach would be to consider obtaining a new capacitor whose internals you do know. I needed black to connect with this in switch position 1-2, so I added another black on contact 2 on the middle deck.
On the top of the direction switch, the yellow is on the right side of the switch and the pink is on the left. At the same time, I wanted black and brown connected on the top deck so that I would have the two capacitors in parallel. YOU MUST TURN OFF THE CIRCUIT THE FAN IS ATTACHED TO AND VERIFY THAT THE FAN IS NOT RECEIVING POWER. In the middle of the direction switch, the white wire comes into the left side and a gray wire is on the right side.
By flipping the order of the yellow and pink wires (by moving the direction switch), the rotation direction of the ceiling fan is reversed.
Since white (neutral) is on the left, the gray wire on the right seems to be the wire through which power is supplied to the motor winding. Now when the switch is in position 2-3, the black and gray wires connect on the top deck and there is no connection on the bottom deck. Note that I had to put the gray wire in contact 3 on top because even though the middle deck has black on 2 as well, it also has black on L, which would make position 3-L another high, rather than off. In my fan, it originally connected directly to the capacitor and not the speed switch, so I left this connection as it was. This is just an example of the logical approach required to develop a suitable switch wiring once you know the pattern of your switch and the internals of your capacitor. The above information about wire colors is not intended to apply directly to any particular fan. The motor in quality fans has sealed bearings and windings with only the highest quality copper wire.
The number of blades is determined more on appearance and design than air movement.Airflow is measured in cubic feet per minute, or CFM.

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26.09.2015 admin

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