3 wire ceiling fan install instructions,ceiling fan switch and capacitor wiring guide,holmes hawf2043 twin window fan review noise - PDF Books

In all cases the neutral (white) wire from the fan assembly should be attached to the neutral (usually white) lead from the house wiring.
How do I wire a dual switch ceiling fan to work with a remote control?I unhooked my old fan and hooked up my new fan, but my remote does not work.
When the electrical source originates at a light fixture and it's controlled from a remote location, a switch loop is used.
A rheostat, or dimmer, makes it possible to vary the current flowing to a light fixture thereby varying the intensity of the light. This diagram illustrates the wiring for a split receptacle with the top half controlled by SW1 and the bottom half always hot. In this updated diagram 3-conductor cable runs between the receptacle and switch, and the red cable wire is used to carry the hot source to the bottom terminal on the switch. Here again, the connecting tab between the receptacle terminals is broken off and the neutral tab remains intact.
At the receptacle the black cable wire from SW1 is connected to one of the hot terminals and the red wire is spliced to the white wire on the 2-conductor cable running to SW2.
In this updated diagram 3-wire cable runs between the receptacle and SW2 to allow for splicing the neutral source through to the second switch box. Here two 3 way switches control a wall receptacle that may be used to control a lamp from two entrances to a room. Source 1 comes in at the light fixture and a 3-wire cable is run from there to the switch half on the device.
Source 2 comes in at the combo device where the hot and neutral wires are connected to their corresponding terminals on the receptacle half of the device.
In this diagram the tab between the hot terminals is broken off and a short, jumper wire of the same gauge is run from the output side of the switch to the hot terminal on the receptacle. Single-pole switches will work to turn the lights on and off, even when the wires are connected in reverse.
To get the wires right, connect the source to the bottom terminal on the switch and the lights to the top terminal.
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I have an existing switch on the wall, which toggles a wall outlet in the corner of the room. Is it better to branch the electrical wire to the ceiling from the wall outlet, or from the light-switch? How should I go about running the electrical wire to the center of the ceiling, from the corner of the room, with no attic access? You should run the cable from the switch (assuming power goes there first), and install a separate switch for the light (either by increasing the size of the box, or by using a double switch). The easiest option would be to run a new cable directly from the switch, up to the ceiling fixture. If you're working in a home constructed of solid wood framing, you should be able to run the new cable fairly easily.
In this situation, you'll simply have to drill a hole through the top plate, then run your cable. In this case you'll want to consult local building codes, to figure out where and how to bore the holes. If the wall runs parallel to the joists, there's no getting around it, you're going to have to bore through the joists. In this case it doesn't matter if you're near the middle of the wall, or to one side or the other. To get from the switch box to the ceiling box, you're going to have to drill through at least one structural member.
To get through the joists, you can take advantage of the hole you've cut for the ceiling box. Ceiling fans often come with light kits, and it's common for folks to want to control the fan and light(s) independently. If you're working in a home that does not have solid wood members, consult local building codes for appropriate course of action. If you try to notch the joist, you could end up with your second floor on your first floor. If you want to keep the wall outlet switched, consider knocking out the current one gang and replace with old work two gang. However, if you do run electrical cable through a notch, you must protect the cable from physical damage using a steel plate or equivalent. Depending on the condition of the floor above your ceiling, it might be easier and cheaper to access the ceiling void through the floor.


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I had a standard extract fan to my bathroom which was switched direct from the light switch (2 gang - one for lights and one for fan). Note that if you encounter a white wire with a marking piece of colored tape attached, this could be used to signifiy it is being used as something other than a neutral.
I need help with the wire colors - I have red, white, black and green wires that are coming out of the ceiling.
Also included are wiring arrangements for multiple light fixtures controlled by one switch, and a split receptacle controlled by two switches. The circuit pictured here is wired with 2-conductor cable running from the light to the switch location. Because the electrical code as of the 2012 NEC update requires a neutral wire in most new switch boxes, a 3-wire cable runs between the light and switch. The dimmer switch will have stranded wires that must be sliced to the solid cable wiring with a pigtail. The receptacle is split by breaking the connecting tab between the two, brass colored terminals. The hot source is spliced to a pigtail that connect to the bottom, always-hot, half on the receptacle and to the white cable wire which continues on to the bottom terminal on SW1. The neutral from the source is passed through to the switch box using the white wire and in this diagram the white wire is capped with a wire nut.
With this arrangement two lamps can be plugged into the same receptacle and each can be controlled separately from two different locations. The source is at SW1 and 3-conductor cable runs from there to the receptacle, 2-conductor cable runs from the receptacle to SW2.
Here the white is not used for hot but instead the extra, red wire serves that purpose for the second switch.
Like the split receptacles above these devices makes use of a removable connector between the two, hot terminals to divide the device when needed. In this arrangement the connecting tab between the hot terminals on the device is broken off to separate the two. The hot from the source is spliced to the black wire and to the input side of the switch at the other end.
This may be a convenient arrangement if you want to use the device to control a load plugged into the receptacle. The hot source wire is connected to the input side of the switch and the source neutral wire is connected to the neutral terminal on the receptacle. If the wiring is right, you can read the words ON and OFF printed correctly on the toggle when you flip the switch.
A good way to remember this is to think of the direction of the toggle arm pointing to the direction of current flow. You'll want to either install a larger box and a new switch, or a double switch, so the light can be controlled independently.
Since you didn't mention where the switch is, or which way the joist run, I'll cover a few scenarios.
Again use the alignment tool to position the flexible drill bit, and start drilling in a straight(ish) line towards the wall with the switch box.
Boring holes can be done with less damage to the finished material, and won't make structural engineers cringe. And always follow all manufacturers installations instructions, and all local building codes. Then if you do install a ceiling fan with lights, you can control the fan and lights independently.
What was not indicated was an awareness of code requirements and experience and training necessary to properly interpret and implement those requirements during construction. For example, if the floor upstairs is going to be renovated too, or if the floor cover is a carpet, which can be lifted and put back easily, or even better - if it is just the original floorboards, you can easily lift one or two floorboards. In UK unprotected cables in the ceiling void should be at least 50 mm below the floorboards.


Having been fed up with leaving the fan on when I went to work on numerous ocasions, I thought that when I refurb the bathroom i'll put a timer model in. As with any electrical wiring, make sure all wire connections are made securely with the proper size wire nuts, that they are not loose and that no copper strands are showing. The white cable wire in this switch loop is wrapped with black tape and connected to the bottom terminal on SW1 and the hot source at the light. The red and black are used for hot and the white neutral wire at the switch box allows for powering a remote controlled switch. The source hot wire is connected to the bottom terminal on the switch and the top terminal is connected to the black cable wire.
The hot and neutral terminals on each fixture are spliced with a pigtail to the circuit wires which then continue on to the next light.
A device like this should only be used with an incandescent light fixture and not with a ceiling fan or other motor. The other wire from the dimmer is spliced to the black cable wire which runs on to the hot terminal on the light. The black cable wire is connected to the top terminal on the split receptacle and runs to the top terminal on SW1. This represents a change in the NEC code that requires a neutral wire in most new switch boxes.
The source hot wire is spliced to the bottom terminal on SW1 and to the red cable running to the receptacle. The black wire is connected to the second hot terminal on the receptacle and to the top terminal on SW2 at the other end. When intact and wired to one hot source wire, the combo device can be used to turn a light off and on, while the receptacle will be constantly hot. The source is at the device and the hot is connected directly to one of the hot terminals, it doesn't matter which one. But if the wiring is wrong, when you flip the switch up to turn on the lights, it will read OFF and the word will be printed upside down.
Cut the hole far enough from the ceiling, so you have room to position the flexible drill bit. They run at a right angle to the joists, so you will have access to all the joists you need to drill through. And some electrical works are notifiable - you are supposed to inform your local council before you start them, so they can provide the necessary control (and get your money).
Most "house wiring" should be 14 or 12 gauge solid copper wire attached to a 15 or 20 amp 120vAC circuit respectively. The black wire is connected to the top terminal on SW1 and the hot terminal on the light fixture. The neutral wire from the source is spliced to the white cable wire and continues on to the light.
The source neutral wire is spliced to the white cable wire which continues on to the neutral terminal on the light.
The circuit neutral wire is connected to one of the neutral terminals on the receptacle, it doesn't run to the switch. If you are running a new circuit check the electrical code to understand this and any other updates to the required procedure. The top terminal is connected to the black cable wire, and the source neutral is spliced to the white wire which continues on to one of the neutral terminals on the receptacle, it doesn't matter which, only one connection is needed with the neutral wire.
In my opinion, it is an error of judgement to assume that people out side the industry are similarly informed by experience. In all the houses I have done this, the ceilings were plasterboard, so going through the floor was the obvious option.
I still want the switch to control the downlights (already installed) and the other switch to control the shower light fan.
Consult a professional if you encounter something varying from this and are not aware of how to safely handle it. At the light, the white wire connects to the neutral terminal and the black wire connects to the hot.
The top terminal is connected to the black cable wire running to the hot terminal on the receptacle and the source neutral is spliced with the white cable wire which runs on to the neutral on the receptacle.
The source neutral wire is spliced to the neutral on the receptacle half of the combo device and to the white cable wire.



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